Road Cycling

Soldato
Joined
7 Oct 2003
Posts
5,686
Location
Nottingham
Still looking at the Zuus 50mm Carbon Disc Wheels for under £500, as anyone any experience of these?

I was originally looking at the Hunt 31mm Aero Wide alloy wheels but these are looking less tempting when you can get 50mm carbon wheels for the same price.
 
Soldato
Joined
24 Jul 2003
Posts
5,664
Location
floating down the Liffey
Still looking at the Zuus 50mm Carbon Disc Wheels for under £500, as anyone any experience of these?.

They will literally be the same as the Chinese rims and hubs but with Zuus stickers and built by "Steve" instead of "Mr Wong".

I think there are some posts about them on Bikeradar.

You could argue the hubs are also slightly better than the DT or whatever you could get from china (White industry with Ti freehub) if you have a custom bike then you can colour match the hubs etc but this is getting very marginal now!

You can specify wheels with Chris King or White Industry hubs from Chinese builders too.
 
Soldato
Joined
22 May 2003
Posts
10,855
Location
Wigan
I am quoting from weight weenies. WRT Novatec hubs et al.

Some good information in here to help you make an informed decision about which are best for you/your budget.

Built tons of Novatec hubs, the A291 fronts are pretty good, and the other ones are probably fine as well.

Let me take two seconds to debunk the "it's only bearings and bling that differentiates OEM hubs from boutique ones" mindset, though.

With these front hubs, and also a lot of other light weight fronts, they use #699 bearings, which are tiny. Tiny bearings overall don't work or last as well as bigger ones like 6902s in the real world. The A291 design is fairly narrow on the flanges as well, which when coupled with small bearings and axle, it's not the stiffest hub. But tiny bearings are light, that's how the old American Classic fronts could be like 55g or whatever they were.

Bearing quality is not inherent to the hub. By that I mean some of these hubs will ship with the lowest grade crap bearings and some will ship with fine bearings. Novatec I think uses fairly good EZO bearings with 2RS seals and a good grease fill as standard, but from a third party source you'd have to confirm what's in there. Could be a great SKF (though almost definitely not), could be a dry and out of spec piece of crap (and if the hub's really cheap...).

A291s are most frequently paired with F482 rears. F482s have fine bearing sizes (6902 and 6903, and your bearing choices for rear are limited based on cassette body design) but the flange geometry just isn't that hot. Same with the more popular Bitex hubs. And a lot of Bitex/Novatec/KT/etc hubs have TRAGIC flange geometry, presumably in the interest of looking unique and cool. Design is "free" so I don't know why they don't optimize but they don't.

The hub shells on these better OEM hubs are forged, which is a must, but the metal is never as hard as the better hubs. When I build a front with an A291, I MASH the spoke ends into the hub through the build process, which elongates the holes because the metal is relatively soft, and it takes a lot of work to get them to stop moving. Similar with the rears. When you see a couple year old wheel built with these kind of hubs, you see spoke hole elongation and distortion that you just don't see with WIs or I9s or CKs.

The softer metal also manifests in bearing bore roundness problems sometimes. The machining generally seems pretty good, but I've seen more than a couple of these kinds of hubs distort and not hold bearings over time. When that happens you get to replace the hub and rebuild the whole wheel. You hear of this with some of the "better" hubs on very rare occasions, but my data set is big enough to say it happens with the OEM hubs and not with WI/I9/CK etc.

The cassette bodies are problematic with these things. I'd rather they didn't use the anti-bite guards because in a season that thing may have worked loose and now the problem is worse than cassette chew. We've glued a lot of those suckers back into place with Gorilla Glue, which works, but not something you want to have to do.

I'm all for a mid-priced hub that has high quality and good reliability. It seems quite hard to do in a weight weenie hub. We love the Aivee disc hubs because they're very simple, well executed, and great price. They are not WW hubs, though. And their rim brake hubs have funny geometry that we don't like. So yes a lot of hubs do seem kind of expensive for what you get. It's way too easy to find $700 hub sets on the market and way too hard to find a good high quality $220 hub set on the market. But it's not just bearings and bling that make the difference, at all.
 
Soldato
Joined
23 Nov 2004
Posts
10,646
Sounds like a well informed chap. I hate when the wheels are fitted with 699 bearings, it literally is a scooter/skateboard wheel bearing.

I've got a FFWD F6R being sent back(cracked the rim/brake surface slightly) for a customer that is a good few years old and I've never changed the bearings in the DT 240 hubs vs having done loads of Prime wheel hubs this year with there obscure bearing size in the rear.

Good run today with some of the Bundy guys I ride with in the summer, was pretty much nippy legs all the way.

When we split to go our own way 4 of us still got a good pace on the go towards the cafe then it was down to me and my mate post cafe so we extended it to get 100 miles in.

Adding on the extra brought the average down from 18.5mph to 17.5mph but we did go close to Glasgow so loads of lights etc.

****** now :)


https://www.strava.com/activities/2060236782
 
Soldato
Joined
27 Feb 2003
Posts
7,171
Location
Shropshire
Went out yesterday morning, had 75km planned. Checked the bike over as usual before leaving, all good. Pulled off the drive and could hear something rubbing.

Must have stopped about 10 times over the next couple of KM trying to work out if it was the brakes, mudguards or something else :mad: Eventually figured out that after I took the back wheel out last weekend for cleaning, I obviously didn't get the pressure on the rear QR skewer even when putting it back. The back wheel must be slightly out, so it just rubbed on the chainstay :rolleyes:
 
Soldato
Joined
18 Oct 2002
Posts
8,420
Location
Hereford
I'm gubbed today after a walk yesterday, 50 miles in the evening and going back to work today on 4 hour sleep :o
Brutal! Sleep more! Less wild parties with your kilt on! :p

WRT chinese carbon clinchers, I've had a few pairs too, and they look fine and serve a purpose if you're tight on cash, but imo don't come close to a decent set of well built rims and hubs. Chinese clinchers seem to all come on novatechs too which are utterly average at best. On brake tracks theres been a fair bit of progress with textured brake tracks in the last few years. Zipp showstopper, Enve NBT etc all add a bit extra braking performance over the smooth brake tracks of old.

Personally, and having recently warrantied a very expensive carbon wheel for a full free replacement I personally wouldn't bother using them for anything other than the commuter/winter hack, even then something cheaper and alloy probably makes more sense. If its for best bike and actual performance is important, then go for a decent handbuilt rim of appropriate depth with a good hub, the difference will be very apparent, not to mention the backup of warranty etc should the worst happen.
Good quality real world feedback from someone putting the miles into them, thanks for sharing Tom!

<snip> Obviously, the Pro and boutique-level wheel brands will claim their latest £2000 wheelset will give you an extra 3% watt savings + BJ whilst you ride.<snip>
Is that why you have your Bora's? :D

To be fair I'm never going to wear a rim out (even less likely now I'm Disc) so for me investing in a wheelset I want to ride (will encourage me to ride more) is part of the investment. I'm quite materialistic so the brand on the wheels DOES matter to me. The functionality will likely be the same (not pushing any boundaries!) regardless to what I buy, but the flashy brand will make me want to ride them more. So that's likely the route I will generally be expected to take when 'shopping'...

I am quoting from weight weenies. WRT Novatec hubs et al.

Some good information in here to help you make an informed decision about which are best for you/your budget.
Amazing post, thanks for quoting. Who was that from (just for some basis for his opinions)?

Sounds like a well informed chap. I hate when the wheels are fitted with 699 bearings, it literally is a scooter/skateboard wheel bearing.

I've got a FFWD F6R being sent back(cracked the rim/brake surface slightly) for a customer that is a good few years old and I've never changed the bearings in the DT 240 hubs vs having done loads of Prime wheel hubs this year with there obscure bearing size in the rear.

Good run today with some of the Bundy guys I ride with in the summer, was pretty much nippy legs all the way.

When we split to go our own way 4 of us still got a good pace on the go towards the cafe then it was down to me and my mate post cafe so we extended it to get 100 miles in.

Adding on the extra brought the average down from 18.5mph to 17.5mph but we did go close to Glasgow so loads of lights etc.

****** now :)


https://www.strava.com/activities/2060236782
Good feedback on wheel bearings too, thanks Jonny. Great ride too, sounds brutal! :)

I failed spectacularly to get many miles done but had a good session on Zwift so not a total loss. Without the tough course of 'Tour of Zwift Stage 2' I would be really low on volume for the week & a bad start to the new year! :o
 
Soldato
Joined
1 Mar 2010
Posts
21,778
Touching up some corrosion on the rear cf frame, drop-outs - does anyone have a best practice ?
On right pic I have removed corrosion/oxide with brass-wire brush in a drill, and plan to use etch-primer (for alloy) underneath some black hammerite, after scrupuloulsy cleaning

[ Lower picture is my Micehlin pro 'endurance' rear after less than 1K, they ride well, and afaik I have neither tramlined them nor emergency stopped, so I am a bit annoyed ! ]


45732547125_54d3fc0a23_o_d.jpg
 
Soldato
Joined
18 Oct 2002
Posts
12,332
Location
Birmingham
Cleaned the dust off my road bike and cycled from Birmingham to Stratford on Sunday. Small fry at 39km compared to everyone on here, but I was pleasantly surprised with the average speed of 27 kph considering I've not done a "long" ride for over a year. 6 months of cycle commuting 22km a day at the end of last year at least kept my legs a little familiar with riding a bike. A 15 month old at home makes it slightly challenging to take an afternoon off on my bike! I think I'm going to have to convince my wife to form a support team with the little one and meet for a pub lunch in the Warwickshire countryside.

The Birmingham Velo isn't looking so terrifying in May, I just need to make sure I do a regular long ride to keep up my fitness.

Any recommendations for padded shorts?!
 
Soldato
Joined
25 Oct 2006
Posts
5,386
Cleaned the dust off my road bike and cycled from Birmingham to Stratford on Sunday.

Finished reading that sentence and thought "Woah. That's some distance after having just dusted the bike off!"... Then I read the next :D

The most comfortable shorts I've got are Endura FS260 Pro. I actually rate them better than the Pro SL version too.
 
Soldato
Joined
23 Nov 2004
Posts
10,646
I've had a knog blinder 4 eyes for ages on the rear which was actually the girlfriends but I lost my R70 blinder....

Also running a moon comet on the front at the moment and it seems to last forever and be well built.
 
Soldato
Joined
25 Oct 2006
Posts
5,386
Exposure TraceR should be available for £25-30.

I had a Knog front light jump off my bike. I didn't realise that was the plastic noise I heard until about 10 miles later :(
 
Soldato
Joined
18 Oct 2002
Posts
12,332
Location
Birmingham
Finished reading that sentence and thought "Woah. That's some distance after having just dusted the bike off!"... Then I read the next :D

The most comfortable shorts I've got are Endura FS260 Pro. I actually rate them better than the Pro SL version too.


Thanks for the shorts recommendation! East London is far too dangerous for cycling :D
 
Soldato
Joined
27 Feb 2003
Posts
7,171
Location
Shropshire
Thanks guys but was after something a bit more on the budget side!

In a hurry for delivery? I got a couple of these from Ali, took a couple of weeks to get here. Worked out about £4 each and they are very bright. Quality seems decent.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...-Safety-Warning-Bicycle-Rear/32827394859.html

Edit to say they are the same as these which PX sell for £12

https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/LIJOWEZ/jobsworth-wezen-usb-rechargable-front-or-rear-light
 
Soldato
Joined
18 Oct 2002
Posts
8,420
Location
Hereford
Touching up some corrosion on the rear cf frame, drop-outs - does anyone have a best practice ?<snip>
On alloy I'd just use nail varnish. Worked well on my Defy, but be careful if its bare carbon as think nail varnish can damage the layup.

What rear lights are looking good this year?
Explosure TraceR. I have 3 of them now, oldest is 3 years old and used 5+ times per week, day and night, all year round - as I always run a flashing rear even in the summer day times. Incredible lights for the money (well worth even the £40-45 RRP for the latest model with 'Daybright' but if you're after budget then find an older model one without).

If £30-35 is too ripe for you then look at Cateye. The Mini RC is a great little light for sub £20, if you can find it. The cheaper copy (newer) Rapid Mini is ok, good for £17 but battery life is not as good as the Mini RC. The Lifeline Aero Beam are ok, good for £15, although the rear rubber fitting is a bit iffy. I've had no water ingress problems with mine so far. They're around 8 months old and ridden all weathers (have had some good soakings!).

I'm running 2 rear lights myself (helmet & bike - Tracer & Mini RC) and then 4 rear lights on the baby chariot (Rapid mini, 2*Aero beam & Cateye Duplex). The other half is running a TraceR and Rapid Mini.

My only experience with Knog was a cheapy blinder. Was a great little light but battery life was shocking. I have a Moon Comet which is superb, incredibly bright but as it got older the battery life started to drop off. Should still use it but broke the mount trying to fit it to the chariot. :rolleyes:

Exposure or 4fourths offerings.
Not heard of 4fourths, thought you where running Lifelines?

Cleaned the dust off my road bike and cycled from Birmingham to Stratford on Sunday. Small fry at 39km compared to everyone on here, but I was pleasantly surprised with the average speed of 27 kph considering I've not done a "long" ride for over a year. 6 months of cycle commuting 22km a day at the end of last year at least kept my legs a little familiar with riding a bike. A 15 month old at home makes it slightly challenging to take an afternoon off on my bike! I think I'm going to have to convince my wife to form a support team with the little one and meet for a pub lunch in the Warwickshire countryside.

The Birmingham Velo isn't looking so terrifying in May, I just need to make sure I do a regular long ride to keep up my fitness.

Any recommendations for padded shorts?!
Good stuff! Although which Stratford?! ;) Haha, Stratford upon Avon is still a good distance. Regularly riding is key, regardless of distance. Although you should get some longer training rides in before the event so you 'build' towards it.

My little boy is 15 months old too, trying to balance riding with rest/recovery and him is hard. Especially since starting teething 3-4 months ago he seems to be waking before 6am, every.damn.day! Luckily we ride our commutes so some of my weekly commuting towing him is quite intense/tempo (baby trailer). Without Zwift/turbo trainer I wouldn't have been near 4000 miles last year!

Shorts pads are a very individual thing. Start with some of the cheap but quality/well documented shorts like the Endura FS260/Wiggle DHB/Castelli Evoluzione/Sportful Classic/Giro/Rapha Core. Get to know which pads work well for you, for me the wider and thicker pads of Rapha Core & Sportful TC work better than the thinner and racier pads. But that's a very individual thing - as I seem to be far more sensitive than others, who seem to be able to ride on anything!

Exposure TraceR should be available for £25-30.

I had a Knog front light jump off my bike. I didn't realise that was the plastic noise I heard until about 10 miles later :(
Hate it when that happens! I'm sure that's what happened to a Cateye Rapid X (can't find it anywhere!) and my first Mini RC. :rolleyes:

I dropped my VOLT 800 loads of times (rubbish/dodgy mount, eventually warrantied), have yet to drop an Exposure. Say much for their mounting as never really considered that until now! :cool:
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom