Road Cycling

[Jonny ///M]

Loads of brands do adapters but not all.

Fulcrum disc wheels come with 12/15mm and QR adapters, I just converted some Hunt 4s from QR rear to 12x142 and the front 15mm to 12mm.

Hope are another one good with adapters.

Regarding that video - I don't like how the hub face that touches the inside of the dropouts isn't rough, you don't need it on bolt through axles due to the way they work but I'd like it on my QR disc wheels. I've had a few disc QR bikes pull the wheel off centre due to poor QR clamping force/areas.

 

[AndyCr15]

Fulcrum disc wheels come with 12/15mm and QR adapters

Hmm, mine are Fulcrum. I'll have to did out all the bits I guess.

 

[Adam-r]

No, I could pull it off quite easily.

So, todays 36 mile ride was going great until 2.3 miles out and I notice my pressure down at 30 an dropping. I pulled over, checked the tyre outside and the wheel rim, both seemed fine. I switched in a new tube and set off. Within a mile it's going down again, so I just walked the last mile home! How do I get so many punctures?!?!?

Could it be these CXR wheels aren't suitable for 100psi road tyres? I am tempted to just buy some new road wheels for it. It would then be relatively easy to swap from road to off road by just changing wheels at least.

Decent road wheels (on spindles) for under £200?

It can’t be the wheels surely. Maybe try some better tyres?

 

[resurgam]

No, I could pull it off quite easily.

So, todays 36 mile ride was going great until 2.3 miles out and I notice my pressure down at 30 an dropping. I pulled over, checked the tyre outside and the wheel rim, both seemed fine. I switched in a new tube and set off. Within a mile it's going down again, so I just walked the last mile home! How do I get so many punctures?!?!?

Could it be these CXR wheels aren't suitable for 100psi road tyres? I am tempted to just buy some new road wheels for it. It would then be relatively easy to swap from road to off road by just changing wheels at least.

Decent road wheels (on spindles) for under £200?

You do seem to get quite a few!

Where on the tubes and what type of punctures are they? If snakebites then that suggests the pressures are too low and you're puncturing on the rim when hitting potholes. If on the outer part of the tube then it's probably ingress through the tyres, in which case you could look at changing them to something more robust (if it's this, then remove any thorns of glass that have penetrated the tyre otherwise you'd be puncturing again). If on the rim side of the tube then check the tape - it did look to be exposing spoke holes on your earlier picture. I suppose there's a chance of swarf being left behind from the manufacturing process too.

Happy to be corrected but I'd have thought running too high pressure would be more likely to blow the tyre off the rim rather than result in punctures.

 

[AndyCr15]

It can’t be the wheels surely. Maybe try some better tyres?

Surely Conti 4 Season are pretty good?

Where on the tubes and what type of punctures are they?

I've not checked yesterdays. Honestly, once I'd walked home, I gave it a quick wash down and left it in the hallway for another day... The previous day, it was one small slit, I think on the inside (making me think it's the wheel)

 

[Adam-r]

Surely Conti 4 Season are pretty good?



I've not checked yesterdays. Honestly, once I'd walked home, I gave it a quick wash down and left it in the hallway for another day... The previous day, it was one small slit, I think on the inside (making me think it's the wheel)

If you’ve re-taped the rim then I’d be either thinking I’ve been unlucky or I need new tyres. I don’t want to come across like I’m teaching you to suck eggs but you defo checked the inside of the tyre for debris wedged in the casing? If you’re doing anything other than riding on the road then you could look into different tyres. I’ve been recommended some gravel kings.

 

[Roady]

Maybe the wrong sub forum, but do we have an ocuk Zwift group? We should do some rides

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/foru...riding-zwift-trainerroad-etc-thread.18757601/

We have a Strava club, so generally join that to filter on Zwift segments is as far as we go. It would be easy to setup a 'meet' but wouldn't bother setting up an organised/scheduled ride unless we suddenly have a bunch of us. Much better to join some other rides/races together.

I know a few people have asked, so sorry if I'm treading old ground here, but I'm after a not too expensive (seems in the cycling world - there's no such thing ha!) jacket to keep the wind off. I don't tend to go out in the rain, but just now a base layer and regular jersey are not quite keeping the wind chill off me. Hopefully something I can take off and chuck in a pocket during efforts, but that might be asking too much.

Seen the Rapha MEN'S PRO TEAM LIGHTWEIGHT WIND JACKET but not in stock, and ideally would like to spend around £50ish. Any ideas? Thanks all.

See my couple of posts the last week or so, I'm looking for a thinker kinda softshell but windproof and I'm sure a few of the things linked have been too thin/light for me, but probably ideal for you. Also below.

Galibier?

https://galibier.cc/product/ventjacket/ - £40

They also have the Tourmalet and Mistral jackets which are waterproof rather than wind but are £60ish.

Limited sizes in anything but white, but there's also the Sportful Hot Pack 6 jacket:

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/sportful-hot-pack-6-jacket

Galiber also do this one which sounds suited: https://galibier.cc/product/gino-light/

The Sportful 6 Pack is a good shout, as is the Fiandre 'Light' (I have this one in a LS), although generally a shower/rain cape replacement, really packable and blocks enough wind. Not very thermal if you do require that, as that's what the 6 Pack is for (and possibly not what you want between efforts!?).

For your kind of use - wind protection when needed between efforts I tend to use gilets but for me that's generally between climbs & descents so will tailor my effort if going too warm, I'm generally wearing something for the cold starts (that can fit in a pocket if things go far warmer than expected) but generally wear as adaptable as I ride zipped down/unzipped. My favourites are the Castelli ones, I'll nearly be always found in a gilet, for an additional windproof & visibility layer in the winter, a windchill/adaptable/cold morning in the Spring/Autumn. It's generally only summer I'll wear a lighter (non-gabba thickness) one or the Fiandre Light to pocket later in the ride (as required).

No, I could pull it off quite easily.

It's a rim 'strip', not tape. It's like a slightly fibrous rubberish circular strip which slips over the rim and is elasticated enough to sit tightly on the rim bed, but they can move around, which is what you're seeing. It's exposed the spoke holes and quite likely one of those has a sharp enough edge which with the high pressure you're using is pushing the tube against that edge until it punctures. I seem to recall you saying the strip/'tape' had a slit in it when you looked earlier? Entirely possible that slit is around the spoke hole causing your issue. It'll have a sharp edge, or bit of metal flash left from the manufacturing process. Not uncommon.

Several things you can do, I'd start by finding all the holes which have a bit of a sharp edge and then file it down/pull it off etc, working your way around the wheel. If there's 1 there's likely to be others. If the rim strip is damaged enough to get a hole in it, it's best to replace it - as they have a valve hole in them, they have to generally 'sit' in the same place (although you could switch it around to 'move' the damaged bit to the other 'side' where there's less likely to be a sharp edge). Rim strips are cheap. I've even got 2 (from my Fulcrum racing 7's I got a month ago) I'd happily send you if you wanted/struggled to get/find. You do have to tend to match them to rim width but they are kinda 'universal'.

Hope that aids some of the confusion/worry. Annoying it's happened, but with pressured air, in rubber tubes around the outside of metal objects, with cut edges, there's really only a few things which can happen to cause punctures(nightmares!).

Loads of brands do adapters but not all.

Fulcrum disc wheels come with 12/15mm and QR adapters, I just converted some Hunt 4s from QR rear to 12x142 and the front 15mm to 12mm.

Hope are another one good with adapters.

Regarding that video - I don't like how the hub face that touches the inside of the dropouts isn't rough, you don't need it on bolt through axles due to the way they work but I'd like it on my QR disc wheels. I've had a few disc QR bikes pull the wheel off centre due to poor QR clamping force/areas.

Agreed, I would say always get the right adaptors for your wheels. Most Disc wheels will come with them as for a while there where several 'standards' (still are) regarding QR/TA and hub/frame width. An 'off the shelf' bike like yours may not have, but I'd be surprised if the 'off the shelf' wheels you've previously bought probably did.

My (cheap £230) Fulcrum Racing 7s came with adaptors. I played around a bunch with the adaptors my expensive Zipp 30 Course (£630) came with, as I have an awkward non standard frame width. When I bought them a few years back, not many disk wheels came with all the adaptors, you had to buy them separately (Hope/Hunt) but most now do.

 

[wallofsound]

Thanks Roady.

 

[AndyCr15]

It's a rim 'strip', not tape. {snip}

Thanks, yeah, it wasn't stuck down and I've replaced it with what you linked to already.

I've dug out my spare wheels, they're these Fulcrum 6 and in fact I'd already fitted the QR kit and I've got the front wheel on the CXR bike already! I need to work out how to move the disc over, front and back. I assume the cassette will move over easy enough, I think I've done that before. , By the looks of it, I can use the 4 Season 32c on these Fulcrum too, so hopefully I'm all set! I can throw the CX tyres back onto the original wheels. Maybe I'll even get a spare cassette and discs to go on the spare wheels, to save moving about. What do I need to check for compatibility? (If anyone can link to cassette and disc that fit the above linked wheels, that would be great )

**EDIT** Can/should I just throw this cassette on and two of these 160mm discs, for example?

 

[PapaLazaru]

The missus has been getting onto road biking a bit more this year and has been using my two bikes, one single speed and an old Specialized Sirrus Pro. I decided to get her her own bike, as her MTB is also my old one. £500 budget is enough in case she does not get into it and I spent ages looking at second hand stuff, but nothing came up. Just ordered her a Triban RC 120 for £400 as looks decent for the money.

 

[Jonny ///M]

Thanks, yeah, it wasn't stuck down and I've replaced it with what you linked to already.

I've dug out my spare wheels, they're these Fulcrum 6 and in fact I'd already fitted the QR kit and I've got the front wheel on the CXR bike already! I need to work out how to move the disc over, front and back. I assume the cassette will move over easy enough, I think I've done that before. , By the looks of it, I can use the 4 Season 32c on these Fulcrum too, so hopefully I'm all set! I can throw the CX tyres back onto the original wheels. Maybe I'll even get a spare cassette and discs to go on the spare wheels, to save moving about. What do I need to check for compatibility? (If anyone can link to cassette and disc that fit the above linked wheels, that would be great )

**EDIT** Can/should I just throw this cassette on and two of these 160mm discs, for example?

Cassette is fine but Fulcrum use centre lock rotors not 6 bolt. You also need to use the external lock ring supplied with the wheels not the ones that come with a Shimano rotor(look like a cassette lockring).

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/sram-centerline-rounded-center-lock-rotor

That would work, Sram use slightly thicker rotors I'm sure so best sticking with Sram for that and the braking surface height.

 

[AndyCr15]

Ahh, thanks. I was wondering how the disc attached to the wheel itself! That makes more sense. Have ordered both parts, thanks.

**EDIT** Okay, taking the real wheel out of it's box, I realise I hadn't figured the adaptor for that. There's so many different instructions, I just don't understand any of it unfortunately







For the front, parts like 6 and 7 the thick side just slid into the through axel holes. This isn't the case for the rear wheel. They are the same size as the holes, so wont go in. Is it something simple, or shall I take it to my LBS and ask them to help me?

 

[Jonny ///M]

You need 5,6 and 7 there. See the knurling on number 5. There should be another one with knurling that you'll use.

The drive side piece with flats will come off. Right to loosen I'm sure. Insert the top hat shape thing and then put a knurled locknut over it.

The non drive just pushes/ clips in places iirc.

 

[AndyCr15]

Okay, so piece 3 has knurling when I turn it over, so I need that and 5? I then remove the silver bit with flat edges in the last photo and use 3 and 5 in it's place, either side. Then slide 6 and 7 in? (As I can see 6 and 7 fit inside 3 and 5 ) **EDIT** Actually it wont, 6 and 7 don't fit into 3... I also notice you said the knulred nut goes over the top of 6 or 7, missed that, sorry.

 

[Jonny ///M]

Okay, so piece 3 has knurling when I turn it over, so I need that and 5? I then remove the silver bit with flat edges in the last photo and use 3 and 5 in it's place, either side. Then slide 6 and 7 in? (As I can see 6 and 7 fit inside 3 and 5 ) **EDIT** Actually it wont, 6 and 7 don't fit into 3... I also notice you said the knulred nut goes over the top of 6 or 7, missed that, sorry.

Did you get it? I'd don't get round to working on a kinesis I'm building with racing 6 to double check.

Last page of this shows the order, I may have got it wrong.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAKegQIGBAB&usg=AOvVaw1U2q5EUCW1b7Ll0u4np2m6

 

[Jonny ///M]

Decided to try my HR monitor for a change.

https://www.strava.com/activities/4361988723/segments/2764617582110175804

A80 in the cold tonight 1 hour 30 at 170bpm so Z4. Legs felt a bit dull from Tuesdays effort but got round it.

Have to rush to get there for the start, got shouted at as they left the car park so half a lap chasing on without a warm up and hit 200bpm on the second lap

 

[AndyCr15]

Did you get it? I'd don't get round to working on a kinesis I'm building with racing 6 to double check.

Nope, I even dropped it in at my LBS on the way to work, they spent a good 15 to 30 minutes on it and then said they think I've not been given the right parts. I'll throw an email to Fulcrum I guess and see what they say.

A friend pointed out this great deal for anyone needing wheels. If you're a BC member, 10% off that too... down from £780 to £450.

 

[UTmaniac]

A friend pointed out this great deal for anyone needing wheels. If you're a BC member, 10% off that too... down from £780 to £450.

£500 for 50mm deep carbon tubeless ready disc brake rims isn't bad at all, but sadly the days of 10% BC discount went ~2 years ago, it's a whole £10 off a £150 basket these days!

Really noticing how Wiggle are really playing to the Covid supply/demand of bike bits, some components are out of stock to buy individually, but available in all sizes as part of bundles... Sometimes with some serious price gouging.
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/prime-attaquer-road-disc-wheelset £349
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/prime-attaquer-disc-wheelset-tubeless-bundle £530 (so +£181 for a pair of tyres and some sealant!)

 

[Adam-r]

Decided to try my HR monitor for a change.

https://www.strava.com/activities/4361988723/segments/2764617582110175804

A80 in the cold tonight 1 hour 30 at 170bpm so Z4. Legs felt a bit dull from Tuesdays effort but got round it.

Have to rush to get there for the start, got shouted at as they left the car park so half a lap chasing on without a warm up and hit 200bpm on the second lap

Can’t see your ride on strava for some reason but 90 mins @ 170bpm is serious! Do you measure power? If so, what was your tss for that ride?

 

[Roady]

Another FTP gain last night in the WTRL TTT on a tough course. Happy with that one and right on where I want to be and am aiming at staying for a while, providing I can avoid any illness or other reasons to set me back (as I'm really enjoying it at the moment!)

Ahh, thanks. I was wondering how the disc attached to the wheel itself! That makes more sense. Have ordered both parts, thanks.

**EDIT** Okay, taking the real wheel out of it's box, I realise I hadn't figured the adaptor for that. There's so many different instructions, I just don't understand any of it unfortunately







For the front, parts like 6 and 7 the thick side just slid into the through axel holes. This isn't the case for the rear wheel. They are the same size as the holes, so wont go in. Is it something simple, or shall I take it to my LBS and ask them to help me?

Ok, taking a look at this for you - sorry didn't have decent time earlier in the week. Bear in mind I'm only speaking/advising from limited experience, just trying to demystify for you.

I think the set you have taken out the packet there are for a front wheel (thoughts @Jonny ///M ?) and you've tried to fit them to your rear wheel. Tell-tale is the adaptors 1+2, 3+4. They're for different diameter thru axles, as fronts generally come as 12mm and 15mm, rears do not generally have different diameter thru axles. 6+7 are the adaptors for QR you'll be using.

So there should be another set, very similar to the above, BUT the parts are slightly different, so you may have used the parts from the rear set on the front wheel. They may even have fitted, but I would say not perfectly (as the front set doesn't fit the rear). So on that other set; for TA there will only be a single pair like 1+2 as the rear wheel comes with a set fitted. The front wheel didn't come with any adaptors fitted so there is 3 sets of adaptors there (in your pictures), the rear pack comes with 2 sets of adaptors. The ones for 12*135mm TA already fitted to the wheel (looking at your pic), so your packet should have a set for 12*142mm and a set for QR (which you need).

Basically what I'm trying to say (and from my experience), modern road front DB wheel axles are generally all the same length (same hub width: 100mm), but the thru axles can be different thicknesses - 12mm & 15mm. Rear wheels the thru axles are generally the same thicknesses (12mm) but the hub widths can be different - 135mm or 142mm (or edge cases nightmares like my Specialized SCS which is 137.5mm!). Feel free to shoot me down and correct me @Jonny ///M /anyone, but that's what I'm basing my advice from and trying to help Andy with!

In Jonny's link it's the last page (84). Left hand side the page shows the front option 'QR 9mm - 100mm' (what you need - Code RM11-TAQR), Right hand side you'll need option 'QR 10mm - 135mm' (what you need Code RM16-TA12135+KITFCRAQR).

It might take some interpretation, but try not to mix the 2 sets up. There's some measurements on that page which might help you to identify the right bits. If you just gave them the single rear wheel to your LBS and the adaptors from your picture (and not your front wheel) they may well be stumped as it won't be obvious (the parts are on the wheel they don't have). Of course it's entirely possible Fulcrum gave you the wrong parts! Looking at the page Jonny linked, all the Fulcrum Racing DB wheels come with the same adaptors. If you and your LBS can identify exactly what you're missing and Fulcrum are unhelpful/delayed then I should have the parts for QR from my Racing 7's I'll never need to use I would happily send you...

Okay, so piece 3 has knurling when I turn it over, so I need that and 5? I then remove the silver bit with flat edges in the last photo and use 3 and 5 in it's place, either side. Then slide 6 and 7 in? (As I can see 6 and 7 fit inside 3 and 5 ) **EDIT** Actually it wont, 6 and 7 don't fit into 3... I also notice you said the knulred nut goes over the top of 6 or 7, missed that, sorry.

6+7 don't press into 3, they go in without anything 'holding' them. Part 5 fits in the rear wheel, freehub side, when you take the adaptor out that came in there, then the QR parts push in (I believe 5 is there just to keep the cover/freehub on the axle & space it to grip the frame/dropout???)

Decided to try my HR monitor for a change.

https://www.strava.com/activities/4361988723/segments/2764617582110175804

A80 in the cold tonight 1 hour 30 at 170bpm so Z4. Legs felt a bit dull from Tuesdays effort but got round it.

Have to rush to get there for the start, got shouted at as they left the car park so half a lap chasing on without a warm up and hit 200bpm on the second lap

Bossing it & great KOM! Good speeds and HR good to see on a ride like that - the effort to jump on the group, then you sat in for a lap (possibly group ride first circuit easy?), before then the craziness starts.

200bpm is SRSBZNSS!

A friend pointed out this great deal for anyone needing wheels. If you're a BC member, 10% off that too... down from £780 to £450.

Good price for some ok wheels. Deep and good looking good road/TT wheels. Thin rim ID (19mm) not ideal for anything gravel/off road (although tubeless) and quite a heavy wheelset (1800g) for anything hilly/racing wise. Heavy carbon makes them similar weights to other wheels around the same start price (Bontrager Aeolus 5), they come with some good tyres too, I paid £79 for my pair of the same tyres in 28mm. Although I'm not a fan of them and consider them overpriced now!