Help me buy an MX5

[wesimmo]

I'd definitely echo the alignment advice.

These cars are fun because of the handling and not the power.

For the sake of the cost of an alignment you'll be making sure you make the most of a really engaging chassis whichever model you go for.

I was seriously disappointed with mine when I first got it, an alignment by a specialist soon sorted that.

 

[Lighters]

Plenty of advice thanks all will get some reading done and try them out.

I recently spent 10k on my last car and sold is for 9k a year later so couldn't complain.

Don't mind doing something similar with the right mx5 but no garage and winter use I might devalue it or end up spending.

Think I have found the 1 I want!
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/783046959009027/
8800 high miles but can keep them low in my usage.
FSH on Mazda until 2019 at 72k miles but then no evidence after.
Said he serviced it at 82k as friend works for Mazda but paid him cash.
Hes going to try get proof but would this put anyone off or how much would you reduce price for resale?

disks pads and rear bearings have just been done.
Auto trader values at 8300 due to mileage.
Thinking of offering £8000 seems reasonable.

Or http://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202103190342723?atmobcid=soc3

 

[visibleman]

@Lighters - Didn't realise ND's have come down so much as i would have said that was cheap even with mileage and lack of service history.
It seems reasonably well spec'd so definitely worth a look if it's close but you would want to go over it with a fine-tooth-comb, make sure it's sound mechanically as it's been daily driven and you would want to factor in (and do it to be honest) a service at a decent specialist, due to lack of history, if you did put an offer forward.

That 59 NC on the other hand, seems a tad strong even with the mileage and it looking like a decent PRHT example (looks like the puncture kit is missing though). Arguably the time of year plays into it but i would have thought you would be able to get a special (Kuro, Miyako, Venture etc) or certainly a newer NC for what they're after.

On a separate note, if you are interested in something then always do a full www.vcheck.uk as it searches a number of salvage databases on top of the usual HPI and it's caught a few dodgy NC/ND's when i was buying.

 

[Cleisthenes]

I had a NC2 for 3 years/30k miles and practically nothing went wrong for my whole ownership. It did however rust on the rear arches, by the boot lid handle and by the side repeaters. Definitely be careful of rust as it was the only thing which annoyed me about it.

 

[DereksDontRun]

early (or possibly all) NDs have gearbox issues... to the point that BBR are offering to fit NC gearboxes into NDs for reliability...

I'd be v v careful checking it on a test drive of any surprisingly cheap ND...

 

[DereksDontRun]

Or http://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202103190342723?atmobcid=soc3

I thought 2.0 Sport Tech came with 17" alloys? (unless my Sport Black ed had larger than standard alloys?) why are those 16s?

 

[Cleisthenes]

I thought 2.0 Sport Tech came with 17" alloys? (unless my Sport Black ed had larger than standard alloys?) why are those 16s?

They are the 17s I believe, they've just put the wrong description up

 

[SkodaMart]

The ND are stunning cars.
Shame they are 3/4 sized.

 

[Lashout_UK]

Think I have found the 1 I want!
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/783046959009027/
8800 high miles but can keep them low in my usage.
FSH on Mazda until 2019 at 72k miles but then no evidence after.
Said he serviced it at 82k as friend works for Mazda but paid him cash.
Hes going to try get proof but would this put anyone off or how much would you reduce price for resale?

In all seriousness, run that through Vcheck before going anywhere remotely near it.

https://www.vcheck.uk/

Cheap peace of mind.

 

[visibleman]

I thought 2.0 Sport Tech came with 17" alloys? (unless my Sport Black ed had larger than standard alloys?) why are those 16s?

Should be 17's if it's a Sport Tech as only Standard/SE models came with 16's from memory. Although i noticed there seems to be two tyre brands on the car, possibly different on same axle, so it'd be something to be warry about.

Early (or possibly all) NDs have gearbox issues... to the point that BBR are offering to fit NC gearboxes into NDs for reliability...

Isn't it a sign of being tracked/ragged and/or lack of maintenance? As it always seems a bit potluck when reading about the issue from other drivers.

But later ND's have had revisions, which don't appear to have fully solved the issue, and the NC2 box is stronger which is probably why Abarth (not idea if Fiat use the NC box) uses it.

 

[DereksDontRun]

Should be 17's if it's a Sport Tech as only Standard/SE models came with 16's from memory. Although i noticed there seems to be two tyre brands on the car, possibly different on same axle, so it'd be something to be warry about.

yeah, the images look like 17s, i was just checking the description.

Isn't it a sign of being tracked/ragged and/or lack of maintenance? As it always seems a bit potluck when reading about the issue from other drivers.

But later ND's have had revisions, which don't appear to have fully solved the issue, and the NC2 box is stronger which is probably why Abarth (not idea if Fiat use the NC box) uses it.

I think I read that Roddinson went through a number of gearboxes, but as you say, that was track use. But, when I wondered about a ND and did some googling, there seemed a number of posts from ppl having issues with general use too. Absolutely love the look of the ND, but NC2 + a supercharger would probably win if I had to (but the plan is hopefully more Elise shaped at some stage)

 

[Lighters]

Thanks all, will very likely check it out but reading about the ND gearbox issues does worry me.
Would defo not want to pay more than £8k as would want to fully service it myself.

How much would gearbox cost and will it likely have already failed if on 85k?

Will keep an open mind and look at multiple versions of NC/ND's but seems like the £5k one is overpriced from what I can see about.
The more I read the more I'm worried about rust!

Edit - Advice seems to be avoid early ND4 gearbox as multiple revisions.

 

[bainbridge]

If you do go for an NC then I'd recommend the sport tech over miyako or other special editions because only the sport tech has the 6 speed box IIRC.

I love my NC2 Phrt sport tech, I've runted her round the nurburgring, done roadtrips all over the place and she hasn't missed a beat.

My only gripe is... RUST! It really is a constant battle to keep rust at bay. After purchase I had a full underseal done, including cavity injections and ditrinol. The next winter rust started showing around the rear arch lips and boot sill, which I ground back and treated with rustbusters products, it's a lot of work. The next year it started to come back! I then did all the work again with Bilthamber products. No rust as of yet but I've been WFH and barely done 1000 miles in a year. It really is a constant battle, she looks tip top but there's a lot of work to keep it that way.

With hindsight I'd have gone for a Boxter or something less rust prone.

 

[Nasher]

Top engine spec with the smaller alloys would be the best combo. With fabric top ofc.

 

[visibleman]

If you do go for an NC then I'd recommend the sport tech over miyako or other special editions because only the sport tech has the 6 speed box IIRC.

I believe all the 1.8's were 5-speed and then it depends on the special edition whether it's 5 or 6-speed with the 2.0. And there's camps for each in terms of preference with the 5-speed supposedly being be less notchy and "better" geared (6-speed final changed between facelifts). But if you have a choice of one or other, pick the one with the LSD fitted (was fitted to both) and don't worry about gearing.

Although you're best off having a look at the model list on Roadster blog, http://www.roadster.blog/2014/03/uk-mx-5-model-guide.html, as there's a load of them.

Top engine spec with the smaller alloys would be the best combo. With fabric top ofc.

With the NC, the smaller 16" alloys mostly came with lower spec cars, so it'd be a bit backwards to do that.
And sure, if weight is an issue (for tracking/racing) then a soft-top will save you 35KG (iirc) over the PRHT and ~10KG over a (soft-top fitted with a) hard-top. But i've never been convinced the weight difference makes enough of a difference for day-to-day driving to warrant the lack of convenience and the advantages (arguably small but still...) of a PRHT.

 

[bainbridge]

@visibleman You may be right, it's a few years since I bought mine so I've forgotten much of what I learned when researching the models, but one thing I'm pretty sure about is that the reason I went for the sport tech because it was the only model which came with both the 6 speed box and LSD as standard. I wasn't interested in the heated leather, cruise control etc, but like them now I have them.

 

[Nasher]

I believe all the 1.8's were 5-speed and then it depends on the special edition whether it's 5 or 6-speed with the 2.0. And there's camps for each in terms of preference with the 5-speed supposedly being be less notchy and "better" geared (6-speed final changed between facelifts). But if you have a choice of one or other, pick the one with the LSD fitted (was fitted to both) and don't worry about gearing.

Although you're best off having a look at the model list on Roadster blog, http://www.roadster.blog/2014/03/uk-mx-5-model-guide.html, as there's a load of them.



With the NC, the smaller 16" alloys mostly came with lower spec cars, so it'd be a bit backwards to do that.
And sure, if weight is an issue (for tracking/racing) then a soft-top will save you 35KG (iirc) over the PRHT and ~10KG over a (soft-top fitted with a) hard-top. But i've never been convinced the weight difference makes enough of a difference for day-to-day driving to warrant the lack of convenience and the advantages (arguably small but still...) of a PRHT.

Smaller wheels, better acceleration and even more weight saving. Plus better ride. That will be noticable amount in a light, low powered car

Or buy one someone has turboed if you want a fun sleeper

 

[Cob]

Yup the 16’s were considered the better option of the two NC sizes.

Just to reiterate what others have been saying - get the car up on a ramp and check the underside for rust. They came with absolutely NO underside protection. I’ve a 2008 NC with 80,000 miles sat on my driveway. It’s heading to the breakers next week as the underside has just crumbled into dust

Engines are bulletproof if you keep the oil topped up to the max. Thankfully mine never burnt any oil, but if you do get one that does, then watch it like a hawk.

 

[Nasher]

Damn 2008 isn't even that old really. I got one new in 2007 and I'd be annoyed if I kept it and it only survived this long.

I remember getting the first wheel alignment done at only a year old and bolts already needed cutting off :/

 

[Cob]

Damn 2008 isn't even that old really. I got one new in 2007 and I'd be annoyed if I kept it and it only survived this long.

I remember getting the first wheel alignment done at only a year old and bolts already needed cutting off :/

Tbf it was my daily driver with plenty of late-night driving over freshly salted roads. I had the sills done 3 years ago after the MOT tester put his fist through one, but it only delayed the inevitable.

Gutting because the drivetrain has never missed a beat. Mohair roof has never leaked.