Nitro Car Help IN HERE PLEASE

Slam62 · 13 Apr 2008 at 16:06

Hello
Bit of a noob with the old nitro car thing. My son has bought one and obviously I want him to enjoy it, but these things are never simple.

Anyway first question:
It's got one of those electric start things which we charged up all night, being noobs we faffed about trying to star it to 'break it in' and after one decent run (most of a tank), we decided to give it a break.
Anyway we now try to start it for a second run and the starter thing won't turn the engine and just screams at us. I am hoping it's just that the battery needs charging, but I am not really sure.

Second Question:
Are these failsafe cutoff devices a good buy? my feeling is yes.

thanks in advance

Mr_White · 13 Apr 2008 at 16:17

What vehicle is it?

And have you made sure the engine isn't flooded?

Slam62 · 13 Apr 2008 at 16:25

Hi
lightening stadium.
The engine was flooded but the electric starter won't turn it now.

thanks

Reppyboyo · 13 Apr 2008 at 16:27

Failsafe`s are a MUST HAVE.

The engine will be very tight for break in, electric starters tend to be crap.
Ensure the engine isnt flooded first, take out the glow plug, turn the engine upside down and use the elec starter to push some out.
Ensure the glow plug is working, they tend to go quickly under break in.

Whne you want to start the engine, all electrics on etc, prime the engine as per manual, turn the starter.
If it still doesnt move try loosening the plug by 1/4 a turn (maybe even less, depends on the engine). This will loosen ip the engine a touch to ease starting, once the engine has started tighten up the plug again.
If still having problems, get a hairdryer and warm the engine up this will loosen things, then repeat the above.

Nitro engines are temperamental things, they can be quite annoying at times.

Slam62 · 13 Apr 2008 at 16:30

Hi
Thanks for that

umm how do you prime it? the manual isn't very clear

cheers

Mr_White · 13 Apr 2008 at 16:58

If you don't have a priming plunger or bulb, put your finger over the exhaust and turn the engine over until the fuel just reaches the carb intake, you don't want it to go in, you want it about 0.25" away.

Slam62 · 13 Apr 2008 at 17:58

ok

all primed ok but the roto start thing seems to not engage and just makes a load of screaming noise.
could the roto start be knackered?

Jasebta · 13 Apr 2008 at 18:05

That or the engine's flooded or stuck at TDC (top dead centre). Try taking the glowplug out and see if the roto start turns the engine. If it doesn't, it's probably broken.

EDIT: You say it primed okay but "the roto start thing seems to not engage". May I ask how you managed to prime it if the roto start didn't turn the engine over?

Slam62 · 13 Apr 2008 at 18:42

well the roto start did turn it to start with and then gave up the ghost, looks like it's busted

I can turn the engine by hand

fornowagain · 13 Apr 2008 at 18:44

Put a pull start on it, rotos are a pita.

comp builder · 14 Apr 2008 at 22:08

Get a starter box mate.
By the sounds of the screaming i'm guessing one of the gears inside the starter have become mis-placed or even worse, sheared the teeth off one of the gears. You'll have to take it apart and see.

You said you started it and give it a good run for one tank. Is it a brand new engine? did you break it in? (one tank of idling etc etc), if not you've just seriously shortened the life span of your engine. Nothing is wrong with your engine. It's definitly your roto-start at fault. Does the shaft on the roto-start turn? to test it just pull it away from the engine and press the button. If it does then your one way bearing in the roto-start mechanismm attatched to your engine has broken. That shouldn't cost more than a few quid to repair.
As i said though it's definitly your roto start. If your piston was stuck at TDC then the roto-start wouldn't scream, it would barely make any noise it would just try and force the piston around, and eventually overheat. If you say you could turn it over by hand then why wouldn't your roto-start be able to do it?
Don't go down the pull-start route mate. They cost too much and break too often. Either stick with the roto-start or get a starter box is my advice.

I had a lightning stadium not so long ago (just sold up RC to fund my moped) and honestly mate a failsafe is an absolute must have. They are big and quite heavy cars with a very powerful engine (well for a little car anyway lol), if that hit anyone at even half it's speed it would break their leg. For £10 mate you might aswell. Plus you'll find if you go to race it at a local track (which i bet you'll end up doing, driving it in the street, park egts boring after a little while) then most places require you to have one.

Laser402 · 14 Apr 2008 at 22:11

Get a pull start... if the engine allows one

Though they do wear away at the skin between ma fingers =/

GET A FAIL SAFE! AND MAKE SURE IT WORKS!

uv · 14 Apr 2008 at 23:07

posting in the correct forum may get you more help

Liverpool-Lad · 14 Apr 2008 at 23:11

The drill starts are the best, none of these roto start nonsense!

comp builder · 15 Apr 2008 at 20:20

Liverpool-Lad said:
The drill starts are the best, none of these roto start nonsense!

a drill start is basically a roto-start mate.

At the end of the day you all know a starter box is best! lol

Didn't know we had an RC section uvmain! and posting in the car section isn't excatly the right section is it. It's best here.

Fuzz · 15 Apr 2008 at 20:37

Mostly good advise in here already, just do yourself a favour and forget the pullstart idea.
Either fix what sounds like is wrong with the rotostart mechanism or get a starter box.

Rotostart vs starter box pro's and cons really depend what you are going to be doing.
If just bashing att he local park then I think a rotostart swings it, as it saves you having to lug the starter box about so much. (At meets it just sits on your picnic table all day

)