*** The DIY Audio Thread ***

Soldato
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Ah yes, that makes sense if you were buying other things too. I got mine when they were reduced at the Connect shop. T-amps/class D probably do work better with 4ohm yeah, ordinary class AB BJT output ones apparently never do, always slightly more distortion. I am using the LM1875 so I doubt it'd fair too well into 4ohm!

Yeah, the values will be a little different for a 4ohm unit. That software is just Switcher CAD, it's free and incredibly useful! Find the impedance at 10kHz and adjust the values till it looks right, that's all I did :)

The bowls are cool and I had considered them myself. Fewer parallel sides (one strong resonance in a perfect sphere though), ease of construction, appearance. Be aware when making the baffle that placing a driver in the centre of a circle is about the worst thing you can do, even if that circle is just the driver itself. Run some sims on "Edge" (basta! derivative) free software. If you want any full-range, no subwoofer sound then you'll need vented with these :)
 
Associate
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What power supply are you using? It sounds to me like something isn't properly earthed...

I am not using the Cisco power supply as specified on the BOM. I am using a wall wart style power supply that has the same specs, 48 V, 0.38 A. I think I am going to buy one of the proper Cisco PSUs as they are not expensive and it is worth a shot!

Founder_film, that's a shame that didn't help, thought I might have nailed that there! Do you have any other power supply you could test with?

As I said above I think I am just going to have to by the Cisco PSU as specified on the BOM.
 
Soldato
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Ah yes, that makes sense if you were buying other things too. I got mine when they were reduced at the Connect shop. T-amps/class D probably do work better with 4ohm yeah, ordinary class AB BJT output ones apparently never do, always slightly more distortion. I am using the LM1875 so I doubt it'd fair too well into 4ohm!
The drivers arrived today, they do seem well made and very light, and a very tiny magnet! I'm surprised how sensitive they are, a TA2020 amp seems to work well with them.
Yeah, the values will be a little different for a 4ohm unit. That software is just Switcher CAD, it's free and incredibly useful! Find the impedance at 10kHz and adjust the values till it looks right, that's all I did :)
Cheers, I'll check out Switcher CAD, it does look like a bit of software. I really need try and give ARTA a go at some point as well, I've got all the hardware I just need to make up some cables.
The bowls are cool and I had considered them myself. Fewer parallel sides (one strong resonance in a perfect sphere though), ease of construction, appearance. Be aware when making the baffle that placing a driver in the centre of a circle is about the worst thing you can do, even if that circle is just the driver itself. Run some sims on "Edge" (basta! derivative) free software. If you want any full-range, no subwoofer sound then you'll need vented with these :)
Ok, I'll try running a a sim, I didn't know that having a driver it in the centre of a circle would be a bad idea, do you think this is why B&W went for the teardrop shape with their 800 series?
I am not using the Cisco power supply as specified on the BOM. I am using a wall wart style power supply that has the same specs, 48 V, 0.38 A. I think I am going to buy one of the proper Cisco PSUs as they are not expensive and it is worth a shot!
I've found cheap PSU's can cause hum, I've found Meanwell PSU's to be quite good though and seem to give a nice clean power source. I think they do a 48V SMPS.
 
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I've found cheap PSU's can cause hum, I've found Meanwell PSU's to be quite good though and seem to give a nice clean power source. I think they do a 48V SMPS.

My PSU arrived today, very fast delivery from the bay seller. Hum has all but gone! Can only hear is very very faintly. So pleased that I can now get started and actually listen to the thing.

It was funny that I spent twice as much on the cheapo PSU than the proper one, oh well at least it is finished and working.
 
Soldato
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I've found my card reader now, I'll see if I can get some photo's up soon...
My PSU arrived today, very fast delivery from the bay seller. Hum has all but gone! Can only hear is very very faintly. So pleased that I can now get started and actually listen to the thing.

It was funny that I spent twice as much on the cheapo PSU than the proper one, oh well at least it is finished and working.

Nice! I'm glad that the hum has pretty much gone. There are ways you can try and improve the output on a poor quality PSU by swapping or adding parts, but it's not really worth it if you ask me, especially when a better quality unit can be had for less than a tenner!
 
Soldato
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Dr. EM, when building your wedges, did you find an easy way of finding the cubic volume of the rear SPH-30X drivers? I've gone for 1 litre box enclosures in the end, and I am trying to work out the internal volume with the drivers in the box. Is there a quick and easy way of doing this that doesn't involve filling the box with water? :D
 
Soldato
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Gah, I've lost my motivation. I have about 2 weeks of blissful nothing: plenty of time to put something together. Unfortunately I can't bring myself to continue building the pre amp that I started a year ago.:o
 
Soldato
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Dr. EM, when building your wedges, did you find an easy way of finding the cubic volume of the rear SPH-30X drivers? I've gone for 1 litre box enclosures in the end, and I am trying to work out the internal volume with the drivers in the box. Is there a quick and easy way of doing this that doesn't involve filling the box with water? :D

Hey, to be honest I never really calculated it. I assumed it negligible when front mounted as the magnet system is a tiny neodynium one. If you rear mount it (I think they are designed to be really) then you may impact the internal volume marginally, but if not I'd pretty much ignore it, I think I assumed it to be 0.02L or something! Are you porting your enclosures? 1L is relatively small if so, my wedges are about 1.9L. Have you managed to listen to them at all yet?
 
Soldato
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Hey, to be honest I never really calculated it. I assumed it negligible when front mounted as the magnet system is a tiny neodynium one. If you rear mount it (I think they are designed to be really) then you may impact the internal volume marginally, but if not I'd pretty much ignore it, I think I assumed it to be 0.02L or something! Are you porting your enclosures? 1L is relatively small if so, my wedges are about 1.9L. Have you managed to listen to them at all yet?
Well I've managed to get one of them in an enclosure today at least, I hope to have the other one done tomorrow, it's taken me longer than expected, as usual! :o Even though I've only got 1 working, I'm listening to it right now, and it does sound rather nice I think. I've got no filter at the moment, and the 10K peak isn't as bad as I though it would be. In fact when you are off axis it seems far less noticeable. I'm amazed how efficient they are, my little Amp6 is hardly a powerhouse and even though I only have 1 speaker plugged up I'm amazed on how much sound this little combo can produce! I'm really happy with the way that it sounds though, and I hope to improve it further with some sort of filter eventually. :)

With any luck I'll have the other one finished tomorrow. I managed to get some 1L Alu project boxes from an electrical surplus place, and I'm using these an enclosures. 1L seems to work pretty well, at least WinISD seems to suggest 1L after putting in the driver specs for the 4 ohm version:
monacor.png

Yellow is sealed, orange is 2L vented, blue is 1L vented, and green is 0.9L vented which may allow for the drivers volume. I'm rear mounting mine. Maybe the 4 ohm version works better with smaller enclosures?

Finally, I used 22mm copper tube as my port, it seems to work, I'll post some pics up tomorrow I promise! :D
Gah, I've lost my motivation. I have about 2 weeks of blissful nothing: plenty of time to put something together. Unfortunately I can't bring myself to continue building the pre amp that I started a year ago.:o
Maybe start another project? I've got about 3 other projects that I've started and gave up on or put them on the back burner so to speak. Often I'll start and finish another project and then move on to those other that I've been putting off. I'm just hoping the rain holds off as I don't really like soldering indoors, as I don't have any way of extracting the fumes. :(
 
Soldato
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Glad to hear you're getting along with them :)

They are efficient for thier size yeah, I think it's a great combination of efficiency and bass extension for a 3" driver. The 10K peak will diminish off-axis but you may like to experiment with notches anyhow, even just a PC based EQ or VST to hear the effect, I found the peak made them a bit spitty sounding.

Strange that you're calculating a smaller enclosure, and evidently a higher roll-off point than I am. I've used the 4ohm version in the past and IIRC it's the same. Here's what I come up with for the 8ohm ones in WinISD Alpha:

http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/1802/sph30xstandardvented.png

I have shown driver parameters here too, in case there is any discrepency. Are you using ISD Alpha or Beta? If you can, post me the driver parameters you have entered :)

My test cab (built with the 4ohm driver actually) used a 25mm port. You'll likely hear some port noise with a 22mm one so if you are not satisfied with the bass (the port turbulence sounded like distortion on mine) this is something you may look in to.

Look forward to seeing the pictures! It certainly sounds quite interesting, it die-cast aluminium? Could make a very good enclosure actually, perhaps with some bitumen lining it for damping.
 
Man of Honour
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Wow, never spotted this thread, some of the stuff being built here is plain amazing, though a few look abit dangerous ;)

I used to work in audio prototyping for 7 years and loved doing this stuff... though abit rusty now.

Few things I'd like to mention, if you have mains in your home brew box, one hand behind back when probing voltages etc will save your life one day (current through heart = bad)

Also, avoid hum loops with star earthing (everything to central point and watch for loops created by metal boxes) can save hours of scratching around chasing hums... sorry if you all already do this, just remember hours spent on these kind of things. Always ground pot cases....

Always earth your metal chassis, again it's obvious but easily missed...and can be fatal

Some of the valve amps here are jaw droppingly good :D, big thumbs up!

ps: where you guys buying all your kits from ?
 
Soldato
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They are efficient for thier size yeah, I think it's a great combination of efficiency and bass extension for a 3" driver. The 10K peak will diminish off-axis but you may like to experiment with notches anyhow, even just a PC based EQ or VST to hear the effect, I found the peak made them a bit spitty sounding.
I've had a change of plan today and decided to try and build my Amp6 into the speaker enclosure. I've just finished around 10 minutes ago and now eventually have both speakers working and it sound much much better - I'm really impressed! Great soundstage and lots of detail, I'm really happy with these little speakers.

I'll have to experiment with a 10K notch filter when I get a chance, I guess you can get it sounding nice within a software EQ and then re-create it with passive components once you are happy with the sound of the filter.
Strange that you're calculating a smaller enclosure, and evidently a higher roll-off point than I am. I've used the 4ohm version in the past and IIRC it's the same. Here's what I come up with for the 8ohm ones in WinISD Alpha:

http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/1802/sph30xstandardvented.png

I have shown driver parameters here too, in case there is any discrepency. Are you using ISD Alpha or Beta? If you can, post me the driver parameters you have entered :)
I'm using the beta version, but I've just this second downloaded the pro alpha version and I'm going to give that a go when I can. Here's a screenshot which shows the driver specs I used in the beta version:
http://a.imageshack.us/img704/7711/monacor2.png

I think I may have made a few mistakes, I know for sure that this driver doess not have a surface area of 30 square meters! :D :o

I'll try using the official specs here and see how much difference it makes:
http://www.monacor.de/typo3/index.php?id=84&L=1&artid=4915&spr=EN&typ=full

It's not too late to change the tuning of the ports, in fact I mounted the copper tubes on a piece of perspex which is then bolted to the enclosure, so I can in fact unbolt this and change the port length if needed. I'll grab a few photo's tomorrow when I can.
My test cab (built with the 4ohm driver actually) used a 25mm port. You'll likely hear some port noise with a 22mm one so if you are not satisfied with the bass (the port turbulence sounded like distortion on mine) this is something you may look in to.
Well the internal diameter of the copper tube is actually around 20mm, but WinISD was right on the limit of the "vent mach" thingy, it goes red if I try a 19mm tube!

Still, I haven't heard any bad port sounds yet, but I'm only listing to them quietly at it's 3am now. I'm guessing a few sine waves should uncover any port noises if there are any?
Look forward to seeing the pictures! It certainly sounds quite interesting, it die-cast aluminium? Could make a very good enclosure actually, perhaps with some bitumen lining it for damping.
I was going to get some today but with trying to cram the Amp6 into one of the enclosures so I simply ran out of time to get photo's! I'll be sure to get some tomorrow though, they pretty much finished now.

The cases to seem to be die-cast aluminium, they seem to be quite nicely made and seem to be quite sturdy while also being quite lightweight. Another nice thing is that the aluminium acts as a heatsink for me Amp6, so I'm quite happy with how they've turned out. :)
Wow, never spotted this thread, some of the stuff being built here is plain amazing, though a few look abit dangerous ;)

I used to work in audio prototyping for 7 years and loved doing this stuff... though abit rusty now.

Few things I'd like to mention, if you have mains in your home brew box, one hand behind back when probing voltages etc will save your life one day (current through heart = bad)

Also, avoid hum loops with star earthing (everything to central point and watch for loops created by metal boxes) can save hours of scratching around chasing hums... sorry if you all already do this, just remember hours spent on these kind of things. Always ground pot cases....

Always earth your metal chassis, again it's obvious but easily missed...and can be fatal

Some of the valve amps here are jaw droppingly good :D, big thumbs up!

ps: where you guys buying all your kits from ?
I still keep meaning to try a valve amp one day, but right now I'm more than happy with my various Tripath amps. :)

41Hz.com do some nice Class-D amp kits which is where I've got most of mine from. So far I've built an Amp6 Basic, 2 x Amp9 Basic's, and am currently putting together an Amp7. I would recommend the Amp6 Basic if you want to know if you like the Tripath sound. :)
 
Soldato
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That sounds cool with the amplifier integrated into it, very tidy :cool:

The detail is perhaps the most remarkeble feature of these drivers, so much low level detail. I guess it's the strong motor and light cone with high-ish efficiency that helps, but also the close proximity must be important, no smear from early reflections. How do you have your enclosures stuffed?

I decided to enter the driver data (4ohm) into ISD Beta (with 30cm sq too! :D) and it comes out just the same as yours. Strange, but I assume Alpha is more accurate as it calculates actual values for many more parameters rather than relying on manufacturer specs for everything.

Check the help guide on entering data as it won't take all data if there is a conflict. I do Mms, Cms, Sd, BL, Re, Qms, Xmax (ideally Hc & Hg), Power handling, correct impedance; in that order. The 4ohm seems to have slightly lower BL than the 8ohm, but seeing as how BL relates to impedance this may not be surprising, don't know, it could make some difference.

Try turning them up if you get chance, I expect you'll notice some fuzzyness in the bass. Then try a test tone at tuning frequency (it's 88Hz on mine), you may be shocked! I just tried it on my wedges, and unlike my test box the ports only make a noise at very close to Xmax levels. They have 8.4cm square area (between 2 slot ports), and this seems to be a good amount to shoot for. A 20mm tube has 3.1cm square. The ports do eat into a fair bit of internal volume on my wedges, but it's worth it I reckon.
 
Soldato
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Finally, I managed to get some photo's of the SPH-30X speakers today, I only managed to get some external shots as I was listening to them at the time:

This is the one with the amp in, you can see the 4 bolts on the left which are hold the Amp6 PCB inside. I've found 80mm fan grills also make pretty good speaker grills!
dsc0470xt.jpg


Rear - I'm using XLR plugs as speaker cable connectors, this allows me to power both speakers from the Amp6:
dsc0474bx.jpg


Underneath - the hole is a port. The bolts hold down my port tube:
dsc0472w.jpg


This is the rear of the other speaker, I have a piece of perpex bolted to the back which is handy for attaching my MP3 player to:
dsc0480yc.jpg


So far I've been mainly using 12v batteries to power the amp, and have been using them around the house and in the garden, it's quite nice having such relatively small and light speakers. Here's they are all connected together:
dsc0482y.jpg


I've also got some shots of the internals on my phone but I haven't figured out how to transfer them yet... :o
That sounds cool with the amplifier integrated into it, very tidy :cool:
I was inspired by someone over at the 41hz forum, he made very similar speakers and used a mono Amp11 in each speaker, There is something to be said for an amp in each speaker, much less wiring and the Amp11 board is also smaller. Still, I just managed to squeeze in the Amp6 but there was quite a bit of wiring that took quite a while to do. However it all works and I'm more than happy with them. :cool:
The detail is perhaps the most remarkeble feature of these drivers, so much low level detail. I guess it's the strong motor and light cone with high-ish efficiency that helps, but also the close proximity must be important, no smear from early reflections. How do you have your enclosures stuffed?
I've found that some music really sound amazing with these speakers, today I was listening to some chilled electronic music (stuff like Burial, Phaeleh, Mount Kimbie) and I swear that l was hearing subtle sounds that I've not noticed before.

As for stuffing, mine are totally unstuffed right now... Am I right in saying that stuffing can flatten the frequency response at the expense of efficiency or is it a little more complex than that? It should be pretty easy for me to try stuffing them, it's only 4 screws to remove the front panel. :)
I decided to enter the driver data (4ohm) into ISD Beta (with 30cm sq too! :D) and it comes out just the same as yours. Strange, but I assume Alpha is more accurate as it calculates actual values for many more parameters rather than relying on manufacturer specs for everything.

Check the help guide on entering data as it won't take all data if there is a conflict. I do Mms, Cms, Sd, BL, Re, Qms, Xmax (ideally Hc & Hg), Power handling, correct impedance; in that order. The 4ohm seems to have slightly lower BL than the 8ohm, but seeing as how BL relates to impedance this may not be surprising, don't know, it could make some difference.
I've got the alpha version installed now, when I get more time I'll try it with the values I used from the beta version as well as the official specs. I did try the official specs in the beta version and the spl curve was almost identical to my original spl curve. :)
Try turning them up if you get chance, I expect you'll notice some fuzzyness in the bass. Then try a test tone at tuning frequency (it's 88Hz on mine), you may be shocked! I just tried it on my wedges, and unlike my test box the ports only make a noise at very close to Xmax levels. They have 8.4cm square area (between 2 slot ports), and this seems to be a good amount to shoot for. A 20mm tube has 3.1cm square. The ports do eat into a fair bit of internal volume on my wedges, but it's worth it I reckon.
I've tuned my ports to around 110Hz, so I'll hook up my laptop and try some sine waves to see if I can get any strange sounds... I was hoping that having downfiring ports may make any port noises less noticeable, but we shall see...

I've been wondering weather to go sealed after all, especially if I'm going to use these outside from time to time. I don't want bugs to crawl up the port and and make a nest in my speakers! Still, I guess I could stuff a sock or something similar in the port if I want to see what sealed sounds like or if I'm going to use them outside, so I think I'll stick with ported for now. :)
 
Soldato
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They look cool, and pretty durable! I think someone on DIY Audio used these drivers partly because he believed they were waterproof! I haven't put this to the test but it could well be true.

I'd experiment with some stuffing, you shouldn't lose any efficiency because of it, you're just trying to stop internal reflections which can exit back through the cone. Leave a clear path to the port is the only thing to be aware of.

Do you find you have enough clearance underneath for the downfiring port? It isn't obstructed when the speakers are set down? I'm not sure what spacing is needed really, probably not much with this sort if air velocity. If you're worried about things getting inside via the port I doubt a bit of fine open weave cloth over the port would hurt (nylon tights?) :)
 
Soldato
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They look cool, and pretty durable!
Thanks! I think they are pretty solid, I'm sure I could take them travelling and they would be better than some of the small plastic speakers that you see sold as ipod speakers.
I think someone on DIY Audio used these drivers partly because he believed they were waterproof! I haven't put this to the test but it could well be true.
Nice, I guess the rubber surround won't let any water past but I had no idea about the kevlar bit but I imagine it would be pretty good also. I guess I could get away with using them in rain but I doubt they would be very good for diving! :D :eek: I think the enclosures are IP65 or ip67 rated which means water resistant, they do seem pretty good for outdoor use.
I'd experiment with some stuffing, you shouldn't lose any efficiency because of it, you're just trying to stop internal reflections which can exit back through the cone. Leave a clear path to the port is the only thing to be aware of.
Thanks, it definitely sounds like it could be beneficial, in fact my port tube does come pretty close to the magnet but I think with something thin I could stuff the boxes without losing much internal volume.

I still need to try a 10k filter also, so there does seem to be quite a few tweaks to keep me busy.
Do you find you have enough clearance underneath for the downfiring port? It isn't obstructed when the speakers are set down? I'm not sure what spacing is needed really, probably not much with this sort if air velocity. If you're worried about things getting inside via the port I doubt a bit of fine open weave cloth over the port would hurt (nylon tights?) :)
Nylon tights are a good idea, I don't have any to hand strangely enough :)p) but I think I could easily attach some to the top of the port tube.

As for the clearance underneath, I'm not sure really. I stacked sticky flat feet but can easily add more to gain a little more clearance. The sound doesn't really change though if I do lift one of them an inch or so off the surface, so I think I may be ok. I may keep an eye out for some rubber feet, as right now they do slide around and I would prefer something a little more grippy.

Finally, I managed to fire some sine waves thru them with the sig gen feature of WinISD. I did not hear any whistling, I even did some slow sweeps from 80Hz upwards.

I did notice that the sound at around 80Hz sounded a little un-sine-wave-like... It's hard to describe but it sounded a little more like a square wave, I guess there are probably a few harmonics which are affecting the sound, but I'm glad that there doesn't seem to be any strange port noises. :)
 
Associate
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Im in the process of designing my amplifier at the moment but i have 1 problem, i need to creat the PCB's, well i have the schematics, but i dont have the ability/products to create my own PCB.

Does anyone know of any websites where you send off a PCB plan and they create the PCB for you and then send it back for a certain fee?
 
Soldato
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I had some made by a man who had an advert on the bay, small quantity (4 boards). Pretty sure he's no longer advertising his services but search the bay for 'PCB manufacture' and similar terms and there should be someone willing to do it.

What amplifier are you building? I had PCBs made for the Symasym 5.3 amplifier, very nice amp if you need 100W or less :)
 
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