painting inside my case

[mrtckane]

i need advice on what paint i need to use to paint the inside of my case.

i'd prefer something sprayable and it has to be black.

any ideas? i want to move away from gray steel but i like my antec 900 and it took me ages to make a transparent red side window (as opposed to the clear one) so i don't really want to just replace the case.

 

[Makhaira]

It's not just paint that is important, it's preparation too.

I'd give the interior a quick, light going over with something like 360grit sandpaper, and then clean it off and wipe down with some IPA or white spirit. After that I'd just use Hammerite or similar and you should get a good finish off that.

 

[mrtckane]

hammerite as in the same gear i'd use on radiators?

don't need it to look fabulous as it's the inside of the case, just need it to be black, very very black..

 

[whipitrnd]

make sure you dismantal everythink you can. and the things you can mask up and do a good job.

Rub down with some scotch pad if you have any. remove the dual nuss from it. Id give it a coat of primmer first. other the actually finish paint could start to flake , crack and so on. so give it a coat or more of primmer, then spray on the colour you want. 2 coats of black or what ever colour your painting will do.

once its finish it will look good man.

 

[w3bbo]

Like what has already been stated. Preperation (the boring bits!) is the single most important part of spraying. If you don't get that right then the spray job will look awful and won't last. Take your time and do the prep work right!

 

[G-Dubs]

As above, the key is in preparation.

Strip everything out of it, and I mean everything. Anything that will come apart and can be sprayed separatly should be sprayed separatly.

Get all the major dust out with a vacuum nozzle

rub down with 400 - 600 grit paper (not that critical, the idea is to give it a "key" without sanding too rough that you can see the score marks)

give it another going over with the vacuum.
If you can, wash it in lightly saopy water then rinse in cold (hosepipe works well.

Mask any areas you do not want to spray. Use the blue low tack tape. plug any holes you don't want paint getting into. Tape over the whole of the rear panel (unless you want to paint this also. Look at each panel really up close as sometimes even the smallest mist of paint can get through a hole and settle somewhere you don't want it too, like on the outside of your case. Actually a good idea to use paper and tape to cover the outside of your case.

If you can't wash it then use a tack rag (Halfords where they keep all the sand papers etc) about 99p I think. It's very iportant you get all the dust out.

wipe over with white spirit as you also want any grease from your grubby mits removing.

Shake cans for at least 2 mins, I usually go for 3-4 as the better mixed the paint is the better the finish you get.

Position case on a surface that makes it easy to move around. I put mine on a bit of wood a little bigger than the side of the case. the reason for this is that to get into all the nooks and crannies your going to need to move the case and rotate it. It's easier to get a good finish if you onl;y spray horizontal surfaces. Takes longer but worth it.

Apply grey primer. one light coat to begin with, rotaing case then spraying again. etc until all surfaces have a light coat.

let it dry (2 hours should be fine) then do same again.

The above prep and spraying should pretty much take most of a day. If you've done it in less than 6 hours you've rushed it and it won't look good.

Let it dry over night.

Check all your masking as it can come away.

If you have any imperfections you have 2 choices.

sand them away lightly (tack cloth to remove dust)

Leave them if they're not too bad or in a place that won't be seen.

Spray top coat as per primer, light coats, rotating and spraying as you go.
Watch the paint in the corners and the hard to get at places as the temptation is to give these a "good squirt". resist the urge as you wuill almost certainly get a run.

 

[shadowscotland]

Here my experience with spray cans post 21 onwards
Looked great untill I used the lacquer (not realising it takes 20x longer to be touch dry than paint if you apply any pressure)
Very resistant to scratches now but was really miffed with the minor damage at the time.
As lacquer isn't needed for black (especially matt black) you'll be fine.

Black bbq paint is also an option (high emissivity) - if you want your case panels to act as rads

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18109469

 

[Gepetto]

make sure you dismantal everythink you can. and the things you can mask up and do a good job.

Rub down with some scotch pad if you have any. remove the dual nuss from it. Id give it a coat of primmer first. other the actually finish paint could start to flake , crack and so on. so give it a coat or more of primmer, then spray on the colour you want. 2 coats of black or what ever colour your painting will do.

once its finish it will look good man.

Is English your first language? If not, then thank you. If it is, then I found your instructions very difficult to read. And what is "dual nuss"?

 

[Gepetto]

Quick question to GDubs.

When you say "let it dry (2 hours should be fine) then do same again", are you including the rub down/keying with the 400-600 grit and all the cleaning processes in the "do the same again"?

 

[shadowscotland]

I did the sanding between different paints aka the start of each day.
but the paint I used said that each mist coats layer should be every 20 minutes.

but the tack cloth / dust removal is critial before every spray coat if working outside or in a dusty room.

 

[oLysmoLy]

dont you think the black would add to the heat

 

[Serpantine]

Haha, i read this as "planing inside my case" thinking you were crowing some sort of exotic plant

 

[oLysmoLy]

i would advise not to paint inside not good for the heat exposer

 

[ckoons1]

if everything went ok except for a minor [smaller then eraser head] paint chip. how do you guys recomend repairing the chip?wait til dry-sand lightly-paint with touch up paint?
or just fill up with touch up paint?
or is there a better way?

 

[clone]

Best to use etch primer on bare alumium/metal panel as it eat`s into the metal to form a good base for your paint,normal primer will not do this very well and could chip with ease.

If you can find the colour you want use Plasti-kote Fast Dry Enamel it`s very tough when it cure`s.

 

[ckoons1]

would i need to fil inl the area with anything and or sand first?

 

[G-Dubs]

Quick question to GDubs.

When you say "let it dry (2 hours should be fine) then do same again", are you including the rub down/keying with the 400-600 grit and all the cleaning processes in the "do the same again"?

Sorry for not responding sooner, just noticed this thread back up.

In answearing, yes for best results sand and dust between each coat. although you can build up the undercoat then have a good sand only the once prir to top coat if you're pushed for time.

 

[chainy]

As above, the key is in preparation.

Strip everything out of it, and I mean everything. Anything that will come apart and can be sprayed separatly should be sprayed separatly.

Get all the major dust out with a vacuum nozzle

rub down with 400 - 600 grit paper (not that critical, the idea is to give it a "key" without sanding too rough that you can see the score marks)

give it another going over with the vacuum.
If you can, wash it in lightly saopy water then rinse in cold (hosepipe works well.

Mask any areas you do not want to spray. Use the blue low tack tape. plug any holes you don't want paint getting into. Tape over the whole of the rear panel (unless you want to paint this also. Look at each panel really up close as sometimes even the smallest mist of paint can get through a hole and settle somewhere you don't want it too, like on the outside of your case. Actually a good idea to use paper and tape to cover the outside of your case.

If you can't wash it then use a tack rag (Halfords where they keep all the sand papers etc) about 99p I think. It's very iportant you get all the dust out.

wipe over with white spirit as you also want any grease from your grubby mits removing.

Shake cans for at least 2 mins, I usually go for 3-4 as the better mixed the paint is the better the finish you get.

Position case on a surface that makes it easy to move around. I put mine on a bit of wood a little bigger than the side of the case. the reason for this is that to get into all the nooks and crannies your going to need to move the case and rotate it. It's easier to get a good finish if you onl;y spray horizontal surfaces. Takes longer but worth it.

Apply grey primer. one light coat to begin with, rotaing case then spraying again. etc until all surfaces have a light coat.

let it dry (2 hours should be fine) then do same again.

The above prep and spraying should pretty much take most of a day. If you've done it in less than 6 hours you've rushed it and it won't look good.

Let it dry over night.

Check all your masking as it can come away.

If you have any imperfections you have 2 choices.

sand them away lightly (tack cloth to remove dust)

Leave them if they're not too bad or in a place that won't be seen.

Spray top coat as per primer, light coats, rotating and spraying as you go.
Watch the paint in the corners and the hard to get at places as the temptation is to give these a "good squirt". resist the urge as you wuill almost certainly get a run.

Nice write up for newbs to spraying. Im lucky enough to have two friends who are panel beaters/sprayers so I only have to buy them a drink for a job.

 

[clone]

Always use etch primer on bare panel`s the normal grey stuff will not do the job and you will have paint chips later on,i got 2 big can`s from the bay for £15 delivered when i got them it was black never had black etch primer before but it didnt matter as i was spraying matt black anyho