To WD or not to WD? That is the question!

Freeman · 27 Dec 2013 at 15:54

With this wonderful weather we're having...I have a bit of rust coming up on my chain. It's brand new so it's showing up nice n' brown.

I usually use a dry lube (Wurth) but it doesn't keep the rust away.

I've heard a lot of people use AFC-50 once in a while to lube the chain, but considering how much I'd use, it gets pretty expensive over time.

The next option is WD40. Some people swear by it, some people use it now and again to keep rust away, and some say it actually damages the chain because it's a fast moving metal on metal component, and apparently WD is useless when it comes to that purpose.

So what's you're opinion? I'm tempted to use WD as part of the cleaning process tomorrow, but the last thing I want to do is any serious damage to the chain. And if you do use WD, do you use other lubes on top of that such as a dry lube?

Cheers.

Scythe · 27 Dec 2013 at 16:36

WD40 and ACF-50 is not a lubricant!! WD is a degreaser for a start and dries it out to help to resist corrosion, and ACF 50 is an anti-corrosion chemical too, good for covering your bike to prevent rust from salt.

If you've been using this stuff, you've basically been running your chain dry and I imagine it's in a bad state. If it's a new chain, you might be able to get away with it.

Look at Wurth's Dry Chain Lube, or something by Silkolene is a good start. I like Wurth's because it doesn't really cause any oil to fling off and all over your bike. After a ride, you just spray it on and leave it for 30 mins or put the bike away like I do. Reapply weekly, or every 200-300 miles to be safe.

You need to keep your chain in as good as a state as you can. A snapping chain never ends well, it can lead to large damage to your bike, or your leg.

Freeman · 27 Dec 2013 at 16:44

Scythe said:
WD40 and ACF-50 is not a lubricant!! WD is a degreaser for a start and dries it out to help to resist corrosion, and ACF 50 is an anti-corrosion chemical too, good for covering your bike to prevent rust from salt.

If you've been using this stuff, you've basically been running your chain dry and I imagine it's in a bad state. If it's a new chain, you might be able to get away with it.

Look at Wurth's Dry Chain Lube, or something by Silkolene is a good start. I like Wurth's because it doesn't really cause any oil to fling off and all over your bike. After a ride, you just spray it on and leave it for 30 mins or put the bike away like I do. Reapply weekly, or every 200-300 miles to be safe.

You need to keep your chain in as good as a state as you can. A snapping chain never ends well, it can lead to large damage to your bike, or your leg.

Erm...thanks. Did you read my post? >.<

Wurth dry lube does not keep the chain rust free.

wazza300 · 27 Dec 2013 at 17:10

I wouldn't class wd40 as a degreaser,it also lubricates and free's rusted parts,its a blend of different oils

I wouldn't use it on its own on a chain,usually spray a tiny bit then use your regular chain oil/lube,havn't used dry lube either just the sticky wet sort

for the rest of your machine wd40 is fine for a thin film to protect your metal/painted
parts

for rusted nuts/bolts I use wire wool then spray some thin clear lacquer paint to stop it rusting,it lasts for a few months but eventually it rusts/corrodes again

bloodiedathame · 27 Dec 2013 at 22:04

Scottoiler

spp · 27 Dec 2013 at 22:54

I read once that wd40 can perish the o-rings of the chain. However, no idea if it's true.

BAcon · 27 Dec 2013 at 23:16

The best thing for your chain is simply engine oil. The dry lubes all cost a fortune and are generally rubbish tbh. They attract dirt and grit which stick to the chain, which some believe to wear the chain more quickly. I wouldn't use it on anything but a track bike tbh.

Clean your chain using a toothbrush and paraffin (its an excellent degreaser which is friendly to the o rings etc in your chain), it costs about £6 for 4 litres in a general diy shop, its also what your chain/bike manufacturer will recommend to use when cleaning a bike chain. When its nice and clean, lubricate it with oil, wipe off the excess, job done.
It will flick, and need reapplying more often in wet weather, but that's just a part of riding a bike.

You can use a thicker grade oil such as gear oil if you prefer, I just use engine oil as I have lots hanging around.

A scottoiler just applies a drip of oil to your chain at certain intervals, its the lazy mans way of keeping a chain lubed

Dogbreath · 27 Dec 2013 at 23:44

Scythe said:
WD40 and ACF-50 is not a lubricant!!

Actually WD40 is a lubricant, just not one that's suitable for lubricating a bike chain (not that the OP was even suggesting that).

As the OP has discovered, the dry chain lubes like Wurth are pretty much useless in wet weather, esp. with salted roads. Rather than applying the dry chain lube and then something else on top (which may well help to wash the chain lube off), just switch to a 'wet' chain lube such as e.g. Silkolene or Motul. You'll get more of it flung onto the rear wheel but it' probably not going to be very noticeable with the rest of the filth that accumulates in this weather. Avoid anything described as a chain 'wax', or having PTFE in it.

Better still, install an automatic oiler and pretty much forget about chain maintenance other than the occasional wipe with a rag, and far less frequent adjustment.

spp said:
I read once that wd40 can perish the o-rings of the chain. However, no idea if it's true.

Unless there is some dodgy chain manufacturer making O-rings out of natural rubber, then it's not true. The truth doesn't stop myths like this getting perpetuated ad infinitum though

Tefal · 29 Dec 2013 at 01:36

wazza300 said:
I wouldn't class wd40 as a degreaser,it also lubricates and free's rusted parts,its a blend of different oils

I wouldn't use it on its own on a chain,usually spray a tiny bit then use your regular chain oil/lube,havn't used dry lube either just the sticky wet sort

for the rest of your machine wd40 is fine for a thin film to protect your metal/painted
parts

for rusted nuts/bolts I use wire wool then spray some thin clear lacquer paint to stop it rusting,it lasts for a few months but eventually it rusts/corrodes again

wd40 is about 50% solvents then the other half oils.

thepeteh · 29 Dec 2013 at 08:53

get the chain as clean and rust free as possible then keep it nice and oily / clean from time to time! I have a scottoiler, after cleaning my chain I then use a paint brush to spread gear oil onto the chain, after that I let the scottoiler do its stuff.

Tefal · 29 Dec 2013 at 16:06

does thee scottoiler throw a lot of oil everywhere?

i was looking at those TUTORO ones that just work off the vibration rather than vac lines they look very good,m anyone got one?>

BAcon · 30 Dec 2013 at 15:43

Tefal said:
does thee scottoiler throw a lot of oil everywhere?

i was looking at those TUTORO ones that just work off the vibration rather than vac lines they look very good,m anyone got one?>

they are shocking, do not buy a Tuturo, I always used to forget to turn mine off, coming back to oil all over the floor.
I ordered one with a double tip so it would lube both sides of the chain, it doesn't have any wire or anything in the tips so they bounced about and eventually got chewed up and broke off, resulting in more oil dripping onto the floor.

Get what you pay for at the end of the day, and for £20 you get sh*te!

Terminal_Boy · 30 Dec 2013 at 15:52

Another vote for Scott Oiler to lube it while riding and using a paint brush and 50W motor oil to stop corrosion after cleaning it.

Don't use solvents as it gets past the o-rings and washes out any internal lubrication.

BAcon · 30 Dec 2013 at 16:15

Terminal_Boy said:
Another vote for Scott Oiler to lube it while riding and using a paint brush and 50W motor oil to stop corrosion after cleaning it.

Don't use solvents as it gets past the o-rings and washes out any internal lubrication.

Paraffin is fine though

Tefal · 30 Dec 2013 at 18:33

BAcon said:
they are shocking, do not buy a Tuturo, I always used to forget to turn mine off, coming back to oil all over the floor.
I ordered one with a double tip so it would lube both sides of the chain, it doesn't have any wire or anything in the tips so they bounced about and eventually got chewed up and broke off, resulting in more oil dripping onto the floor.

Get what you pay for at the end of the day, and for £20 you get sh*te!

They're automatic now and don't need turning off and on they run off the bikes movement

BAcon · 30 Dec 2013 at 21:00

Tefal said:
They're automatic now and don't need turning off and on they run off the bikes movement

hmm fair enough, I used one of the originals and it was rubbish. Didn't realise they had updated them

Dogbreath · 31 Dec 2013 at 10:42

BAcon said:
hmm fair enough, I used one of the originals and it was rubbish. Didn't realise they had updated them

I have an automatic Tutoro oiler on my RSV and it's the best accessory I've ever bought. Once you've done a few rides to nail down the correct flow rate (which you have to do with any oiler) it just works.

GM@N · 6 Jan 2014 at 21:33

Try Motorex Motorcycle Chain Lube, seems to be doing a better job than Wurth for me.

Dogbreath · 7 Jan 2014 at 10:14

GM@N said:
Try Motorex Motorcycle Chain Lube, seems to be doing a better job than Wurth for me.

Which version are you using?

There seems to be at least four different varieties : "Racing", "622 Fully Synthetic", "622 Strong" and "622 Off Road".

GM@N · 7 Jan 2014 at 20:41

Dogbreath said:
Which version are you using?

There seems to be at least four different varieties : "Racing", "622 Fully Synthetic", "622 Strong" and "622 Off Road".

Using the 622 Strong