Your current Fish tank Setups!

[arc@css]

Sorry to hear that, Rob.


My new filter has been operating for around four weeks now. The instruction booklet recommends that I change the carbon and whatever else it said, every four to six weeks. Should I go by that?

 

[Rybo89]

No, leave the carbon filter in there until it disintegrates, which will be years... Replacing it will get rid of the bacteria you need to keep the tank in check.

Wharf ?

No, never been there.

Ill not mention names, as the owner is my next door neighbour so ill be just be letting him know. The best aquatics store i know is the Dukeries garden centre, just off Worksop. Ill be going back there when i decide to get more fish.

 

[robfosters]

I disagree. Carbon does not work like sponges. It's not a biological filter, its chemical. It exhausts quickly and does need replacing often. I would say every 4 weeks is about right. If it's left to exhaust for too long, it can start leaching chemicals back into the water.

I don't think it's necessary anyway in a normal running tank. I don't use mine in my Juwel. I replaced it with Purigen. Much better medium.

 

[arc@css]

Thanks for the replies. Normally, I take the line that while the manufacturers advice is usually decent enough, I imagine that to boost sales that they will be overzealous in their recommendations to replace items.


Is this what you mean, Rob?

http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Purigen.html



My salifert testing kits / prime arrived earlier.

 

[robfosters]

That's the stuff. Brilliant for polishing water and helps with a lot of other things as well. I think carbon should only really be necessary when you need to remove medication from water.

Added a small shoal of 8 cardinals today. The Amazon Bleheri behind is starting to take off as well.

 

[arc@css]

I might have to look at getting hold of some. Bit of reading to do now.

Cardinals are a lovely addition to an aquarium.

 

[King4aDay]

Carbon does loose it's absorptive capacity after a few weeks, that is true. However its normally quite porous and will hold a reasonable amount of bacteria as well if left in place. So replace it periodically if you want to maintain the capacity to absorb dissolved organic compunds, chlorine, heavy metals, etc. If you're not fussed then you can just leave in as extra biological media. I'd only bother to remove it if it has a negative impact on flow rate through the filter, as o2 availability is probably more important than having extra media.

 

[arc@css]

Carbon does loose it's absorptive capacity after a few weeks, that is true. However its normally quite porous and will hold a reasonable amount of bacteria as well if left in place. So replace it periodically if you want to maintain the capacity to absorb dissolved organic compunds, chlorine, heavy metals, etc. If you're not fussed then you can just leave in as extra biological media. I'd only bother to remove it if it has a negative impact on flow rate through the filter, as o2 availability is probably more important than having extra media.

Interesting. Hmmm.....so it looks like I won't go far wrong by either leaving it in the filter, or by replacing it with purigen. I suppose there won't be enough room to place the purigen in the same compartment.

Something else I need to educate myself on is lighting. I have tubes, which I think need to be replaced as they were running during the last set up years ago. Are florescent tubes fine, or are LED better?

 

[Zatoichi.uK]

Why not just use the Fluval media in the Eheim ?
Is there any bio media in the fluval or is it just sponges?
If it is just sponges stuff a couple in the eheim along with some bio media, then after a month take the fluval sponges out and replace them with ones that fit properly

I am also under the impression that no ehaim ships with media included, so you gonna have to buy that as well

The media for the most part won't fit I think, sponges certainly. I've got a Fluval 206 and looking to replace it with the below. It comes with media as far as I can tell.

https://www.eheim.com/en_GB/products/technology/external-filters/ecco-pro-200

I suppose I could move the Biomax but not sure on sponges since I'd need to cut them up. Some have suggested putting the old ones directly in the tank but not sure if this is good advice or not. I don't have much choice but to run a new filter without running it in first, so want to ensure I take any precautions I can. What do you think?

 

[MassiveJim]

The media for the most part won't fit I think, sponges certainly. I've got a Fluval 206 and looking to replace it with the below. It comes with media as far as I can tell.

https://www.eheim.com/en_GB/products/technology/external-filters/ecco-pro-200

I suppose I could move the Biomax but not sure on sponges since I'd need to cut them up. Some have suggested putting the old ones directly in the tank but not sure if this is good advice or not. I don't have much choice but to run a new filter without running it in first, so want to ensure I take any precautions I can. What do you think?

Yes move the biomax over (All of it) sponges are mainly mechanical filtration anyway.
The biomax is most important.
leave the sponges out of your new eheim when you get it and use the biomax instead, after a month (when the new bio-media has established) you can remove your biomax and put the sponges in.

You might not get great mechanical filtration during this period but without a 2nd filter to backup your new one I don't see another way of doing it

 

[Zatoichi.uK]

Yes move the biomax over (All of it) sponges are mainly mechanical filtration anyway.
The biomax is most important.
leave the sponges out of your new eheim when you get it and use the biomax instead, after a month (when the new bio-media has established) you can remove your biomax and put the sponges in.

You might not get great mechanical filtration during this period but without a 2nd filter to backup your new one I don't see another way of doing it

Top man I'll try that thanks.

 

[rodo]

Been up and running about 2 months now.

Initially the rocks and green plants suffered from diatoms/brown algae and lost a lot of leaves (maybe adjusting to the water?). They have now since recovered.

The red plants are still suffering from brown algae however, particularly the small red plant at the front. I have begun using an API algae product that reduces phosphates and that does appear to be having a gradual impact.

The floating plants were added last week and the male dwarf gourami is a lot less frustrated and built a bubble nest in a few hours, however sadly the current in the tank destroyed it overnight. They do, however, seem a lot calmer and more content hanging around under them.

I may well plant some small grass like plants at the front in time but I'm giving the current plants time to grow and get the way I want them.

Excuse picture quality.

 

[Rybo89]

I really need to invest in real plants...

 

[arc@css]

Also, it says the phosphate pad should be replaced. Like the carbon, is that a grey area, too?

 

[gort]

Also, it says the phosphate pad should be replaced. Like the carbon, is that a grey area, too?

Unless you actually have issues with phosphate levels etc then there is no real need for such products, as long as you keep on top of general maintanance.
If your tap water has high levels of nitrates, phosphates etc, then they can be useful as there isn't a great deal else you an do but purify it after it's come out of your tap.

If the pad is already in your filter, let it run its course and then remove it. They load up on the absorbed phosphates and eventually get "full" and won't absorb any more.
With chemical filtration, there is a chance the impurities will gradually leach back in to the tank if the pads are left.

I've kept fish for over 20 years and in general I use fine poly-wool for "polishing" the water (trapping finer particles suspended in the water,) the sponge pads for mechanical and biological filtration and the loose rubble/noodles for biological.
Fortunately I've not had any real need for chemical removal pads etc.

 

[Zatoichi.uK]

Eheim fitted with old Biomax.

 

[arc@css]

Unless you actually have issues with phosphate levels etc then there is no real need for such products, as long as you keep on top of general maintanance.
If your tap water has high levels of nitrates, phosphates etc, then they can be useful as there isn't a great deal else you an do but purify it after it's come out of your tap.

If the pad is already in your filter, let it run its course and then remove it. They load up on the absorbed phosphates and eventually get "full" and won't absorb any more.
With chemical filtration, there is a chance the impurities will gradually leach back in to the tank if the pads are left.

I've kept fish for over 20 years and in general I use fine poly-wool for "polishing" the water (trapping finer particles suspended in the water,) the sponge pads for mechanical and biological filtration and the loose rubble/noodles for biological.
Fortunately I've not had any real need for chemical removal pads etc.

Cheers for the info.

I don't appear to have any visible signs of problems with regard to phosphates, though I've not tested that for a while. Might be worth picking up another test kit later on for that.

My internal fluval, which I'm still running alongside the new external, has the white wool pad for polishing the water, and that will be replaced tomorrow most likely when I do my next tank / filter maintenance. Interestingly, the external filter guide doesn't mention anything about replacing the wool pad.

I may well buy some purigen and if seachem also do it, something that also replaces the phosphate bag in a week or two. It's barely been running a month, so no need to spend just yet.

 

[robfosters]

Another sad mishap today. One of the new Cardinals has managed to get itself into the pump chamber of my Juwel Rio 180.

I've taken it apart as best as I can but I can't even see him. If he passes away, I'll just have to hope my filter can process any decay sufficiently. It should be OK. One Cardinal is not much at all.

I did see him for a minute but he disappeared again. He was deffo dead though, so he's not trapped and suffering. Not unusual to use a Cardinal within 24 hours of acclimatisation. They was hanging around the base of the filter, so I reckon he just died and as he was rising, got sucked into the intake. Water checks are all fine.

 

[Rybo89]

^ yeah, im also having a ****** time with my fish tank...

This week i have had 3 guppies dead, the new guppy lasted a day...Dead... The other 2 was clearly showing signs of age, i have had them 8 months'ish, this morning they was just skin and bone and lost all colour in their tales over night.

The kuhlii with ich has gone aswell. The other kuhlii is now showing signs of ich...

Mind you the new guppy and 2 kuhlii loaches was from the same store and running on the same water flow (tanks was joined)..Wish i never went and got the 3 extra fish the other day... Been a nightmare..bloody fish.

 

[robfosters]

I wouldn't say I'm having a bad time as my two deaths have been an unlucky jumper and a poorly acclimatised Cardinal. Pretty regular stuff in the hobby. My water quality is still fine as are all the other little dudes, so it's not a disaster.

There's one beautiful cardinal though, who is big and has stunning colouration. I'm desperately hoping he makes it through. Hopefully his size will help.

BTW, do you not have a quarantine/hospital tank?