Just dropped a deposit on some M Power - Trackday Project Car

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Suspension and gear changes not too harsh for normal road use then?


The gearbox has six settings, 3/4 are perfect on the road, but even S6 is good fun and the harshness also depends on your throttle position during shift, a mild lift makes it a very smooth even in S6, but just better idea to use S3/S4 on the road which I do.

On 18" wheels with road tyres, the ride quality is actually better than a stock M3 on 19" wheels. The coilovers take me two minutes to adjust between road and track settings, it works very well on the road and there is no clearance issues as ride height is set for optimal handling, not the slammed wideboy barry look. :)
 
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One question, will there be a running in period for the diff, if so does anyone know what it shall be and of course I shall ask the guys building it for their advice to. :)

Usually just need to do tight figures of 8 at slow speeds for 45 mins to an hour, then replace diff fluid.
 
Soldato
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Depends what type of diff and what work is done I suppose.
I'm taking my diff down to Rich this afternoon as it happens, he doesn't know it yet though :p Having overhaul disc kit put in, it's a traditional salisbury type clutch diff with quite a high initial torque. Instructions say just to drive it for 300km in winding roads then change out the oil.
 
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Depends what type of diff and what work is done I suppose.
I'm taking my diff down to Rich this afternoon as it happens, he doesn't know it yet though :p Having overhaul disc kit put in, it's a traditional salisbury type clutch diff with quite a high initial torque. Instructions say just to drive it for 300km in winding roads then change out the oil.

Tell him to reply to my text, need the partcodes from him so I can order the parts for him to finish mine off, you will spot it, bright green thing on the floor. :D
 
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Hi there

Well I am now up and running on BMW CSL map slightly altered to the scaling of the GM map sensor, but apart from that the map is standard, not remapped etc.

So apart from numerous error codes and my engine light being illuminated due to secondary air pump and de-cats I can conclude following:
- Oil level gauge does not work, my cluster is to old, need a C23/C24 version of the cluster present 2003 onwards, search shows these can be had for around £50 so might give one a try to satisfy my curiosity as I've have taught myself how to use NCS expert so know the code I need to add to get it displayed. :)
- Map sensor does exactly what it says, the slight/partial throttle drivability is a night and day improvement, no matter how hard I try I cannot get the car to stutter or cough, absolute silky smoothness and simply a nicer throttle.
- Performance it seems just a quick as the previous remap and the gear changes are the best they have ever being as my car now has both CSL SMG and CSL ECU software, an improvement there for sure.
- Idle at cold is a tad lumpy, almost like cams but the more cycles the car has done its pretty much spot on now, obviously because cams in CSL are different.


In short though the Alpha-N was good and made excellent power, it did have some drivability issues, for me they were minor but I knew they were there and in hindsight I'd never have gone with Alpha-N if I had known about the map sensor options, but we live and learn. In short if you have a CSL style air box on your M3, forget Alpha-N and go down the map sensor route and remap the cost is pretty much the same if you buy the kit from Frank Smith TTFS in America, was about £400ish including parts, cable and tune. If your on the older MSS54 ECU then you will need it converting to the newer MSS54HP as the CSL maps are twice the size due to higher resolution cam profiles and vanos tuning. Frank Smith TTFS also offer this service as do quite a few members on cutters such as M3Carbon.

So yeah its good, so now I cannot wait to get my actual TTFS remap and see how the car truly performs and to check all is OK running, I doubt the car will make any additional power but if it does then epic, but drivability is superb compared to Alpha-N and is also better than the stock M3 running of the MAF sensor, map sensor all the way. :)

Yes its a lot of money to spend but getting the throttle perfect transforms how a car is to drive and having to drive around potential issues caused by Alpha-N is never ideal so those of you who have a CSL style air box or CSL box your options are:

Frank Smith TTFS Kit (Includes GM sensor, harness, instructions, cable and remap)
If your ECU is the older type then you need it converting, you can send it to Frank for conversion and he will pre-load his map on for you.

Alternatively if you want to go only with OEM:-
BMW CSL air rail: £170-£200
BMW Map sensor: £350-£500
BMW CSL IAT sensor: £30-£40
Frank Smith TTFS tune: £300


Going oe route gets expensive and offers no gains on drivability or performance, confirmed by TTFS, but he can supply an air rail for those who want the oe look and are happy to pay extra for it. :)


So looking forward to trying out the remap when I get it and driving the car with the new finished wheel is absolute amazing I have to say also, as daft as it sounds it has transformed it, feels almost like driving a much newer model. :D

With the remap on and 3.91 final ratio in this car is going to be a rocket ship! :D :D :D
 
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So will it be ready for Powerstation? :)

Interior is a marked improvement over when I went out in it with you.

How long is a piece of string, I would hope the Americans can have my tune written within a month but I know they are super busy guys as they are doing a lot of tuning on the new BMW M4.

So fingers crossed, diff should be in by then though so worse case is I can still bring the car and maybe even run it, but suspect it would be around 360-370BHP without the remap on the stock BMW CSL map.

The interior is extremely basic but at least not bare metal showing or loads of road noise and it is a perfectly comfy place to be, the KW suspension really is excellent. :)
 
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Hi there

Rich at Doritech has completely dissembled the read differential and LSD, cleaned all internals and assembled with XF modifier. After reassembly torque break away is 120ftlb which is perfect and it's now extremely smooth.

Some photos of it all in bits:

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Rich has being keeping me informed with pictures along the way, great guy and now I'm just waiting for parts from BMW Germany. :)
 
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Hi there

Had an odd noise for last month, that sounded like exhaust or brake/dust shield catching/tingling, decided best safe than sorry and took it to a garage I trust. Good job I did as the noise is coming from inside the driveshaft/propshaft so glad I got it checked in case it failed. The garage said it is most likely the propshaft or the CV joint, as such I decided to do my usual when replacing a part and well replace everything. :)

New driveshaft from BMW was £850 :eek: but luckily a fellow forum member had a 2005 one which had covered 60k miles in good working order, so I got that for a bargain £70 delivered. :)

So I am replacing:
- Driveshaft
- CV Joint
- Gasket
- Bolts
- Driveshaft centre bearing and support
- Guilbo (already new but will be re-inspected).

IMG_2491.jpg















Cars service indicator is also stating oil service, last service was inspection 2 so I guess this is just a basic oil service and as such I've ordered:
- 8l Castrol 10W-60
- BMW oil filter
- BMW fuel filter (Don't think its ever being changed) :eek:
- Washers


So will change oil and fuel filter whilst mechanic is swapping out driveshaft.


Then will be all ready for the rolling road day on 25th of April. :)

Rich is still doing my differential as I am still yet to drop some parts of for him to finish it.



Lastly how can I reset the service indicator myself?
 
Associate
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According to youtube :-

Step 1: Hold the left knob down
Step 2: Turn the key into position one while still holding the knob down
Step 3: Keep holding until it the word "Reset" pops up
Step 4: Let go of the knob and hold down on it again until the "Reset" starts flashing
Step 5: When flashing let go and press the knob once more time and now your inspection should set back to 25,000km
 
OcUK Staff
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According to youtube :-

Step 1: Hold the left knob down
Step 2: Turn the key into position one while still holding the knob down
Step 3: Keep holding until it the word "Reset" pops up
Step 4: Let go of the knob and hold down on it again until the "Reset" starts flashing
Step 5: When flashing let go and press the knob once more time and now your inspection should set back to 25,000km


Cheers!


All parts here now for tomorrows service and changing driveshaft over:


IMG_2493.jpg



All ready for RR day, hopefully diff will go in end of month or early May, just leaving cage to sort. Then hopefully lots of fun on track. :)
 
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Hi there


Propshaft, CV joint, centre bearing changed and the noise is gone. :)
Also fitted fuel filter, did oil change/filter and fitted some rear clips to the rear bumper to stop sagging and they actually work, not bad buy at £2.50

Also fitted a new bonnet badge as mine was looking worse for wear, that was not such great value at £33 for a plastic BMW badge. :eek:

Some photos of the car on the ramp:


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Car drives great and all noises are gone so was definitely propshaft failing. :)
 
Soldato
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CSL, but replica as I wanted to save weight and that weighs in at just 4.5kg! :D

well you can't quibble with that, no doubt it was tons cheaper too :D

I remember you also mentioned running a square setup for your CSL (reps also right) wheels, what sizes were they again? Thinking about changing the MV2's on my 330ci as they make the car look quite dated.
 
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