Type R and VTEC owners

ChrisD. · 24 Aug 2016 at 11:51

Hard work but manageable if you drive to the conditions.

They are not a 'get in and drive' car unless it's a warm day and dry roads, even then you have to have your wits about it.

Mine was probably the most rewarding car I've ever driven except perhaps the Caterham 7 I had a go in at Milbrook, which isn't really a fair comparison.

tom_nieto · 24 Aug 2016 at 12:23

I commuted in mine in all weathers and found it to be fine apart from in the snow!! The chassis is so well balanced that with the correct geometry and tyres it doesn't really aquaplane - at least not in an alarming fashion. I bought a set of winter tyres and older 16" rims, but 95% of the time they were actually worse due to the slightly narrower rear size and the reduced grip offered by the winter tyre anyway. If you're not ragging it in the wet, it's actually quite predictable... I mean who actually boots their car out of a wet roundabout on their commute anyway?!

Simon · 24 Aug 2016 at 12:28

Fine as a daily driver. Especially if you stick to road tyres

Nasher · 24 Aug 2016 at 12:43

rare said:
Always wanted an S2000. What are they in the winter? Probably not much fun I would imagine.

Winter (and wet weather) is ok a long as your careful. But forget trying to drive it in snow/ice. The heaters are more than enough to warm the inside up though. Some do leak as well so you would have to check that. All RWD sports cars can be a bit hairy by nature and take you by surprise (even an MX-5), so you need to know what your getting in to.

I considered selling my mk7 Fiesta ST for a 2005 plate S2000. Still am. I miss having a drop top. I'll probably change my mind once I have to get to work in thick snow again

Rilot · 24 Aug 2016 at 16:15

I drove my S2000 all year round, even in the snow. It was fine but you have to remember that it's a very short wheelbase RWD car that's technically mid engined due to the position of the motor behind the front axle line. THis means it will swap ends very, very quickly if you act like an idiot with the throttle or jab the brakes mid-corner in icy conditions.
It's not very comfortable in the winter though. It's cold but at least the heater is very powerful.

rjk · 24 Aug 2016 at 22:10

buy a GT. it's fine in the winter.

tom_nieto · 24 Aug 2016 at 22:32

rjk said:
buy a GT. it's fine in the winter.

But then you can't get the roof down on a bright frosty morning!

TheStarkFactor · 24 Aug 2016 at 22:45

Thinking of selling my FN2 soon, it's been a blast and I love it, but I'm doing more driving now and need to get more than 17MPG lol.

Looking at a CRZ as I'm keen to stay part of the Honda crew.

Soul.Survivor · 24 Aug 2016 at 22:59

TheStarkFactor said:
Thinking of selling my FN2 soon, it's been a blast and I love it, but I'm doing more driving now and need to get more than 17MPG lol.

Looking at a CRZ as I'm keen to stay part of the Honda crew.

17 Mpg? You must be hooning it 24/7 haha

TheStarkFactor · 24 Aug 2016 at 23:04

Soul.Survivor said:
17 Mpg? You must be hooning it 24/7 haha

Yep, I don't hang around and all my driving is urban, typically less than six miles there and back, it's mainly a weekend car and runaround!

I'm not 100% decided, as it has had a lot of £££ spent on it, Mugen Wing, Eibach Pro Springs, FRSU, stainless catback, but I think I need to put my sensible head on and look at ongoing costs.

Vita · 24 Aug 2016 at 23:28

Or drive sensible.

rjk · 24 Aug 2016 at 23:40

tom_nieto said:
But then you can't get the roof down on a bright frosty morning!

So then keep the hard top off and don't complain that it's crap in the winter.

TheStarkFactor · 24 Aug 2016 at 23:44

Vita said:
Or drive sensible.

Gaining an extra three to four miles per gallon for driving 'sensible' isn't that much of a gain.

Plus, there are far more factors to consider in terms of ongoing costs not just solely related to fuel.

Vita · 24 Aug 2016 at 23:50

TheStarkFactor said:
Gaining an extra three to four miles per gallon for driving 'sensible' isn't that much of a gain.

Plus, there are far more factors to consider in terms of ongoing costs not just solely related to fuel.

Prius

TheStarkFactor · 24 Aug 2016 at 23:56

Vita said:
Prius

CRZ.

On Holiday · 25 Aug 2016 at 00:21

Has it been re-mapped with those mods too?

I've HKS RSK + Invidia Catback + EcuTek remapped by TDI North for £550~ VTEC comes in at 3900 and it's still more fuel efficient than when it wasn't mapped.

21mpg if I drive fairly spirited.
40 minimum on a motorway cruise at 70..
9mpg if I live at 8000rpm +

Before map would be
17mpg spirited and 35-37 motorway cruise

There are no other ongoing costs with an FN2

If you've put money into it then you'll regret getting rid!

ChrisD. · 25 Aug 2016 at 08:06

17 mpg from an FN2? Something is wrong. I don't even get that bad in my Evo doing similar mileage.

Stormster · 28 Aug 2016 at 17:38

That is hella cheap, I need to look into this ecutek stuff...

...as I've bought another EP3

I paid £2250, it's an 04 plate just turned 110k but seems to run sweet and drive well. All it needs mechanically is a front passenger ABS sensor and the back box has a blow not that I am bothered as 1) it's not bad and 2) I will be fitting a decent cat back. Body wise it's quite good just the front bumper has a few bits of lacquer peel and a little crack about 1 inch so I will get the whole lot redone then just a machine polish as it's milano red and it'll hide a few very light little marks, I'll get the wheels re-done as well, not in bad nick but why not for £150

Pretty pleased though for the money for a facelift, I forgot how nice these are to drive, it's not messed with so is the perfect combo of comfort vs economy, it actually rides better than the 120D M Sport I sold. The gearbox as well... so good! I've banked approx £7000 so I don't mind spending a grand on this over the next few months tidying and servicing.

That exhaust and map price is great though!

zenith10 · 28 Aug 2016 at 22:53

Looking at buying a ep3 for under £3000 have you guys got any tips?
Would you touch one if the timing belt hasn't been changed? I suppose at the kind of mileage they seem to be the clutch would need to have been changed too.
What's the main things I should be looking for though?

Stormster · 29 Aug 2016 at 01:07

They're chain driven, no real way to tell but you'll surely hear dodgy noises if there's an issue.

When I bought my last EP3 I collated a hefty checklist, by all means use it

Clicky

Whilst I am here, does anyone know of the cheapest source for the Spoon N1 copy exhausts, silenced B pipe?

Also, induction kits, any advances since a few years ago? I was eyeing up an AEM V2 back then, it will primarily be for noise - I won't lie, would the K&N Typhoon be just as effective?

Lastly has anyone bought the EP3 non gen headlights from ebay - are they any good?