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Coil Whine - After adding water block?

Associate
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2 Nov 2009
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Brum
My sound comes from the gpu. Hdmi into my tv, which then uses arc to send the signal via hdmi to the reciever. I bought a good quality hdmi cable, which probably reduced the sound interference by ~25%.
I also use a USB dac and headphone amp. This has 0 noise.

Ah !

Seems that the change in cooling hardware has altered the grounding of the GPU's circuitry in some way.
 
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OP
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18 Mar 2015
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1,101
I would be very surprised if the stock cooler hidden this noise. The stock cooler wasn't all that loud, but this coil whine is seriously loud. If I was a DB meter, I would rate it at about 60db.. It is VERY loud.

Surely my PSU should be able to cope with the spec I have and it can't be that?
 
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I would be very surprised if the stock cooler hidden this noise. The stock cooler wasn't all that loud, but this coil whine is seriously loud. If I was a DB meter, I would rate it at about 60db.. It is VERY loud.

Surely my PSU should be able to cope with the spec I have and it can't be that?

Mine is the same. It wouldn't happen to be an EK water block?
 
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OP
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Been busy and not had a chance to test anything, I have a spare PSU that I upgraded from, still not a bad PSU... Wondering could I plug that PSU into my graphics card and then bridge it as if I was going to test a watercooling loop and turn it on at the same time as I turn on my PC so that it has it's own power supply?
 
Soldato
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Yes, in fact that's actually a ghetto solution for when you have insufficient PSU for all your components but have a couple of insufficient ones handy lol.
 
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Ok so a little update, after sorting some personal things out I have been able to sit down and have a play with this...

I've tried vsync on and off, no difference.
I tried bridging my old PSU to power the GPU only - Same thing, it's a decent enough 700W so I don't think it is PSU OR lack of power.
If I lower the refresh rate to 23.9 or whatever it is in BF1, it's almost if not silent.. As I creep up to 144 it gets louder. Depending on the screen and what's happening the sound changes, when going through menu's etc.
Loosened the screws on backplate no change.

I've tried on other games, like CS:S etc and it whines there too.

I don't want to empty the loop out ideally, but if I have to I will.. Is there anything else I can try?
 
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Hi,
I'm not going to be any help here but I would just like to say I have recently EK waterblocked both my Strix 1080's in SLI and they are now signing like crazy, as soon as I start any game or benchmark they start, it does get better if I lower the FPS but never goes away completely and let's face it I'm not spending all this money to start capping FPS, I'll play on the XBOX if I want to play at 30 FPS......haha.

I have also tried both of my PSU's with a completely different cable set with no difference either (Corsair HX750i & EVGA supernova 1000w G3), standard cooler with fans back on my GPU's and silence again.
 
Soldato
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7 Feb 2015
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if you keep the waterblocks on, but just plug the original heatsinks fan into its fan headers, does the noise disappear?

Hi,
I'm not going to be any help here but I would just like to say I have recently EK waterblocked both my Strix 1080's in SLI and they are now signing like crazy, as soon as I start any game or benchmark they start, it does get better if I lower the FPS but never goes away completely and let's face it I'm not spending all this money to start capping FPS, I'll play on the XBOX if I want to play at 30 FPS......haha.

I have also tried both of my PSU's with a completely different cable set with no difference either (Corsair HX750i & EVGA supernova 1000w G3), standard cooler with fans back on my GPU's and silence again.

Ok so a little update, after sorting some personal things out I have been able to sit down and have a play with this...

I've tried vsync on and off, no difference.
I tried bridging my old PSU to power the GPU only - Same thing, it's a decent enough 700W so I don't think it is PSU OR lack of power.
If I lower the refresh rate to 23.9 or whatever it is in BF1, it's almost if not silent.. As I creep up to 144 it gets louder. Depending on the screen and what's happening the sound changes, when going through menu's etc.
Loosened the screws on backplate no change.

I've tried on other games, like CS:S etc and it whines there too.

I don't want to empty the loop out ideally, but if I have to I will.. Is there anything else I can try?
 
Soldato
Joined
1 Dec 2015
Posts
18,514
Hi,
I'm not going to be any help here but I would just like to say I have recently EK waterblocked both my Strix 1080's in SLI and they are now signing like crazy, as soon as I start any game or benchmark they start, it does get better if I lower the FPS but never goes away completely and let's face it I'm not spending all this money to start capping FPS, I'll play on the XBOX if I want to play at 30 FPS......haha.

I have also tried both of my PSU's with a completely different cable set with no difference either (Corsair HX750i & EVGA supernova 1000w G3), standard cooler with fans back on my GPU's and silence again.
guessing they are also boosting higher without any overclock due to temps water brings ?

not sure if down clocking would help- in theory should still boost a treat underwater .

had this happen to my 1080 under a block, but stock blower was loud and hum of cpu/pump unit just covers it up, got lucky and its a low pitch whine
 
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Cornwall
if you keep the waterblocks on, but just plug the original heatsinks fan into its fan headers, does the noise disappear?

I will try this when I get home from work

guessing they are also boosting higher without any overclock due to temps water brings ?

not sure if down clocking would help- in theory should still boost a treat underwater .

had this happen to my 1080 under a block, but stock blower was loud and hum of cpu/pump unit just covers it up, got lucky and its a low pitch whine

Yes they are boosting on their own now on water with no OC software running.
 
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Cornwall
if you keep the waterblocks on, but just plug the original heatsinks fan into its fan headers, does the noise disappear?

I have now tried this and no difference, I have been digging around on the net and it looks like I am not alone when it comes to EK GPU waterblocks and coil whine, especially on the Strix, it looks like the design of the block makes for good acoustic and amplifies the noise.

Think I will drain the loop and rebuild the cards this weekend to make sure all is making contact and may even try putting some thermal pads on the chokes, there is a brace that gets removed from the mosfets on the Strix when installing the waterblock so will check there too.

I will report back.
 
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8 Nov 2018
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Hi. Guys...

Listen, I have a 2080 Ti FE ... While testing and gaming the first whole day on stock air cooler, to make sure card was ok for watercooling- i DIDN'T notice any coil whine at all! And I ran benchmark where it is very noticeable ...I know the air cooler makes some noise but compared to the day after when I installed my EK Waterblock I would definitely have noticed! My coil whine now is insane.. in closed case under my desk I can CLEARLY hear it.. Hell, you can hear it in other end of room.

I read earlier in this thread maybe pressure on the coils could have something to do with it.. and guess what.. Because I have had pretty high temps (75-80 g) with water!!! I had to find out what could be the culprit.. I have now finally confirmed that I used the wrong screws for the block. I used some that are to long! And therefor the block does not make proper contact with GPU or Coils... And its all 12 screws for entire block that are wrong..

Tomorrow I will fix it and re-assemble... I am VERY excited if this could have anything to do with coil whine..that the block is not tight enough on entire PCB. It turns out one have to use VERY short screws for entire PCB and GPU. There were 3 different lengths with the product. I used to "middle". But the shortest one should apparently tighten it very firm.

I am so sure it wasn't there before waterblock installation..... I will tell my results tomorrow! Its very late and I used entire day on research on high temperature and coil whine lol..

NOTE: I have had many EK Waterblock and pumps etc. I have NEVER had any issue whatsoever. I consider them top in the industry and 1st class products.

In this case I mounted it wrong!

My previous ASUS 1080 GTX STRIX was also with EK Waterblock and it ran cool and quiet no coil noise at all.

https://imgur.com/a/kVkJker

The correct one is the shortest believe it or not..

Lasse
 
Last edited:
Soldato
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4 Dec 2015
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London
Hi. Guys...
I read earlier in this thread maybe pressure on the coils could have something to do with it.. and guess what.. Because I have had pretty high temps (75-80 g) with water!!! I had to find out what could be the culprit.. I have now finally confirmed that I used the wrong screws for the block. I used some that are to long! And therefor the block does not make proper contact with GPU or Coils... And its all 12 screws for entire block that are wrong..

Tomorrow I will fix it and re-assemble... I am VERY excited if this could have anything to do with coil whine..that the block is not tight enough on entire PCB. It turns out one have to use VERY short screws for entire PCB and GPU. There were 3 different lengths with the product. I used to "middle". But the shortest one should apparently tighten it very firm.

The correct one is the shortest believe it or not..

Lasse

You do have to wonder why EK lazily throw the same bag in with GPU blocks still where as new CPU blocks have grizzly and bespoke fittings.

@EK Luc you may want to feed that back its a bit silly to include a ton of screws and also alan keys which you dont even need for the cross head screws - waste of metals.
 
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Yeah it´s stupid with a lot of screws you dont need. Take fools like me, much greater chance for using wrong screws! ;)

Update from yesterday where bad seated waterblock, high temp- mess with mix in thickness of thermal pads..

WELL! I nervous took the 2080 ti PCB and waterblock apart.. I was kind of afraid because the board warped kinda some places when trying to remove.. I had no choice than carefully remove and proceed.

The bad thing I then noticed was due to too long screw the silver "mounting holes/pin" from the waterblock had come off!! 3 of them.. I had to use a plier and hold that while screwing from other side.. My mood was grim because the block is copper and that is very soft.. ! So i would expect the thread to be damaged! ... However I could screw them in with my fingers to begin with.. and carefully tighten with plier... wauv! sweat on my forehead!

A 2080 Ti costing a fortune kinda wanna warp and look like break coming off.. and 3 pins forced out of copper block.. I am not lying I was sweaty! :)

I fixed the thermal pad same thickness according to spec and manuel and cut them precise.. put everything together and carefully the screw where one could expect picky threads in copper - but no everything got well tighten and assembled..

I installed the card, filled water in and moment of truth!

Stock speed 380W BIOS 3dMark.. fekkin´41g celsius ! (from 75g)
Full OC 380W BIOS 126% amazing 44 g !!!!!!!! That's very low, specially with so much power/current..

Wauv i'm happy and very relieved now the operation is over and went well ..

Instantly I broke all my record with few clicks!

3DMark11 Graphics score 52170
Timespy 12414 (graphic 15941)

And im just getting started with the 380w bios.. these were quick numbers 126% / +120 / +500 Core was running constantly 2115 mhz

Wauv i'm happy and very relieved now the operation is over and went well .. And my coil whine got significantly better! MAYBE due to proper cooling? (3DMark11 = worst coil whine)
 
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Caporegime
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Essex innit!
I remember taking apart a MSI 680 Lightning and putting a waterblock on and as soon as I did, coil whine heaven..... I though WTF have I done??? Ran Heaven on a big overclock for a couple of hours and the whine disappeared. It might just need to settle down, so my advice is give it a good test.
 
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