I got me 3D printer, awesome!

Soldato
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2lw4rjp.jpg


I would have thought the nozzle would have been removed like I have it atm, if you were worried that your prints were going to be ruined, but instead there's just been unnecessary parts taken off the left head for whatever reason.

It would be just nice to get it all up and running again in original condition, or near original anyway. As you can see the left lever fits ok, but its not the one, and the spring that my mate and I found is a bit weak as it doesn't clamp the filament very hard.

I am kind of using the auto levelling feature, but the numbers are never the same twice in a row, so I am starting todo it by sight now, I get it so I can just see inbetween the nozzle and bed on the 4 corners of the glass bed

So if we want to replace the nozzle,, I'll need to get some high heat silicon then. Thanks for letting me know matey

Edit: Ah yeah, any ideas how to tighten up the belt the moves the head left and right, as it looks a bit slack, but that might be my fault as I knock the belt when I clean the nozzle with the brush, as the belt is right in the way under the heads and with my hands not being that cleaver either.
 
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Associate
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I've just dusted off my 3D printer after months of not being used.. the prints are coming out surprisingly good! Really pleasing that that the settings remained dialled in..

Want to print some parts to make a gun stock for my HTC Vive. I'll post pictures of how it turns out.
 
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Howdy.

Been a long time since I started this thread.... But I am Back with "I got me a NEW 3D printer, awesome!"

Still have the little UP that started all this, it still pumps out decent prints!

Now I have an Ultimaker 3 to hand, PVA water soluable supports - oh yeah!

2m6u890.jpg
 
Soldato
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Howdy.

Been a long time since I started this thread.... But I am Back with "I got me a NEW 3D printer, awesome!"

Still have the little UP that started all this, it still pumps out decent prints!

Now I have an Ultimaker 3 to hand, PVA water soluable supports - oh yeah!

2m6u890.jpg


Very nice printers. But about £2,000 over priced in my opinion.
 
Soldato
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Rather than start a "spec me" thread, I'll ask in here. Can anyone recommend a 3D printer for someone who, while generally tech savvy, has never actually used a 3D printer before? Once I get the hang of it after a few practice builds, it will mostly be used for cosplay stuff, like masks, armour sections, props, etc, so I'll be wanting a reasonably big build volume. Budget of around £2k, but I want to get people's opinions on what the best options are before I dunk that much money into it.
 
Soldato
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Rather than start a "spec me" thread, I'll ask in here. Can anyone recommend a 3D printer for someone who, while generally tech savvy, has never actually used a 3D printer before? Once I get the hang of it after a few practice builds, it will mostly be used for cosplay stuff, like masks, armour sections, props, etc, so I'll be wanting a reasonably big build volume. Budget of around £2k, but I want to get people's opinions on what the best options are before I dunk that much money into it.


How about building your own and as big as you like...cheap?

https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/d-bot-creation-thread.18738054/
 
Soldato
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There are far more things that can go wrong in constructing my own than just buying a commercial off the shelf product, and no customer support when those events inevitably occur. I also suspect that a 3D printer I build myself will not be as capable as one I can buy. I'm moderately well-off and can afford to pay for the convenience of not having to worry about those things.
 
Soldato
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There are far more things that can go wrong in constructing my own than just buying a commercial off the shelf product, and no customer support when those events inevitably occur. I also suspect that a 3D printer I build myself will not be as capable as one I can buy. I'm moderately well-off and can afford to pay for the convenience of not having to worry about those things.


Fair enough. Can't wait to see which one you buy :)
 
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There are far more things that can go wrong in constructing my own than just buying a commercial off the shelf product, and no customer support when those events inevitably occur. I also suspect that a 3D printer I build myself will not be as capable as one I can buy. I'm moderately well-off and can afford to pay for the convenience of not having to worry about those things.

Well that's both true and false when it comes to 3D printers. But it sounds like you'd rather buy so brands to look at would be Printrbot, official Prusa, Ultimaker and BCN3D. They are currently the market leaders.

J.
 
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I recommend the one I went for, a wanhao duplicator i3.

Not expensive, gives some really nice prints that IMO match the more expensive printers and an active user community.
 
Soldato
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Im getting quite good at this 3d printing stuff now, but just 1 question, how can I make small things look good? As you can see from the photo, the nobble on the end of the stick is suppose to be square, but its a horrible mess. While it prints small bits, the other layers move, I have lowered the speed and reduced the temps, hoping the other layers don't move around when layers are being placed on top, but they still do?

hx9gna.jpg
 
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@Phil2008

To start off with your first layers are not sticking to the bed. You don't have to lower the temps when you slow it down.
If you can zoom in on the bad part as I can't make out what's wrong. But you are getting there :)
 
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@Phil2008

To start off with your first layers are not sticking to the bed. You don't have to lower the temps when you slow it down.
If you can zoom in on the bad part as I can't make out what's wrong. But you are getting there :)

I have finally got the ABS sticking to the bed, as people say on other forums, ABS need a hot bed so it can stick, and I have noticed when the prints are done, they are stuck real solid to the bed,, but as the bed cools, I hear poping, cracking sounds and Im guessing thats the plastic shrinking and comming unstuck from the bed, because once the temps drop below about 90c from 115c, everything is then unstuck from the bed.

If I do long prints, the things that are towards the front of the bed comes unstuck more at the corners then the things that are printed at the middle or back of the bed. Im guessing this is down to the draft as the door has gaps all the way around... Since I have figured ABS needs a hot bed for it to stick, I have been keeping the door shut while its printing aswel.

I am printing another with the same 3 object but with the 2 at the back of the bed and the 1 at the front. Its been printing for about 3-4 hrs now and has another 3hrs to go, and so far no lifting,, but if it does lift I will post a zoomed in pic, but I think if its because its drafty more at the front and the bed cant keep the temp constant at the front and the plastic shrinks and pings of the bed.

I could be totally wrong about my theory, but people even has made air tight boxes for their printers to stop the corners from curling up on their prints?

Ah yeah, I have also figured out printing with 1 head, if I have the 2nd nozzle hot during the prints its less likely to crash into the prints. About the 2nd head, my mate and I managed to get it unblocked and now its working again, but the spring that I have found for the lever isn't strong enough to keep the plastic flowing during prints. But I have found someone who strips these printers down and sell the parts, so I am hoping he will sell me a few part, so the printer should be fully working again.... But I doubt I'll use the 2nd head much even when its working again, like that might be the reason why it got blocked up because it wasn't used much. Every so often I am going to pass some filament out of the 2nd nozzle to stop it blocking up again, or thats the idea.
 
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Soldato
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The print is now finished, I stopped the print as it was messing up the small square ontop of the stick again?

As you can see the 2objects has started to lift up on the edges........

qogcn7.jpg


i75wet.jpg
 
Soldato
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@Phil2008

That looks much better. I never had the bed higher then 90 for ABS and 55 for PLA.
The reason I did a auto level every print was to get the whole bed up to temperature before I started a print.

If the bottom of the print is wider (elephant foot) it's down to the bed not being level. We are talking microns here.
Have fun.
 
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