Oscillating fan capacitor - help with identity

Associate
Joined
22 Sep 2009
Posts
982
Hi all,

I'm trying to fix my pedastool oscillating fan, it fails to spin anymore.

Its a honeywell type fan and is receiving power, it bleeps as its turned on with a button not fanny spinny!

I've located a capacitor as below , but don't know what 40/85/21 mean on the image , i suspect the capacitor to be the culprit and would like to replace it.

ToxnNMK.jpg

I've found a similar rated 1uf - 450v capacitor, but the numbers don't match exactly:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CBB61-mo...hash=item41f3e99ee7:m:mg3ZB1Dlw2SO-mx_x0OGdlA

20/070/21 instead of 40/85/21

What do those numbers mean and are they important? What is the best way to discharge said capacitor before I replace, turning the device on and waiting a while?
 
Don
Joined
19 May 2012
Posts
17,185
Location
Spalding, Lincolnshire
40/85/21 is Climatic Testing Class, as per this datasheet for similar capacitors:
https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/427/mkp386msnubber-268379.pdf
https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Vishay-Roederstein/MKP386M510085JT5?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv1cc3ydrPrF%2Bcy52xK2XmCoUpNxs0FyaA=

CLIMATIC CATEGORY The climatic category indicates the climatic conditions which the capacitor may be operated. According to IEC 60068-1 the climatic category is expressed by a three group coding e.g. 55/100/56. - The first group indicates the lower category temperature (- 55 °C). - The second group the upper category temperature (+ 100 °C). - The third group indicates the number of days (56) which the capacitor can withstand within specified limits if exposed to a relative humidity of 95 % and a temperature of + 40 °C. (IEC 60068-1)

https://www.vishay.com/docs/26033/gentechinfofilm.pdf



Edit:
Personally I'd go for the 21/85/21 that the seller you linked also has - upper temperature is likely to be more important I would think
 
Associate
OP
Joined
22 Sep 2009
Posts
982
Amazing thanks guys!

I don't think i'll be using my fan in -40c haha so have ordered the one above. Here's to hoping it solves the issue, might be posting back in here otherwise for next steps! :D
 
Associate
Joined
25 Oct 2006
Posts
1,628
Location
Skegness
Does the fan work if you start it spinning by hand? If not then that capacitor won't be the problem as it's just there to give the motor an initial jolt into action.
More likely the thermal fuse is blown inside the motor casing where the windings are located/ Fixable but a total pain to do.
 
Associate
Joined
21 Feb 2021
Posts
1
I signed up just to thank you for mentioning the "thermal fuse"

Does the fan work if you start it spinning by hand?
If not then that capacitor won't be the problem as it's just there to give the motor an initial jolt into action.
More likely the thermal fuse is blown inside the motor casing where the windings are located/ Fixable but a total pain to do.


I think 135c is a bit too low before the fuse pops and then you have to take apart the whole motor and carefully change the fuse.

I see no reason these fans don't use a "thermal cut off switch" instead, which will let the fan cool down and then work again, instead of just stop working.
it just seems like planned obsolescence to me.

I have a $300 fan which the electrician offered to replace, but instead, I replaced a $1 fuse.... sure I had to take apart the whole darn thing, but it's worth saving $299 in my case.

25vEXbF.png
 
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