Road Cycling

[Roady]

Cheeky *******!

Fastest Burger King delivery in EK mate! It will turn into good training as MTB + block of flats on my back sprinting around keeps me warm.

Those nuts can get stuck to the hose a bit, it should spin free and give the hose a clean once it does. The olive that is on there should be fine to use again, I've certainly never had any issues doing it that way.

Hahaha had to be said when I noticed the times!

Good work getting it done, quality variable interval training really if you put your mind to it, while also getting some extra beer tokens!

Thanks for the pointers, will see if I can lube it and get it twiddling, I'll only lube it with fluid to avoid any cross contaminiation. Got a new RS785 caliper from LBS yesterday. They had one in their Taunton store and it came in day after I'd asked. Good service, better than any courier as they have their own 2 vans which travel between the 4-5 stores, even better they gave me a club discount on a price they'd already matched to Evans' - £54 down to £50! Not bad for a part they said Madison was showing as out of stock... Just glad someone had ordered one into another of their stores in January and then never been in for it...!

I'd intended to keep the bike inverted after taking the caliper off so I could just fit the new/fixed caliper and then bleed top>down with it inverted (so only bleeding caliper) but the other half had put the damn bike down in the garage for something. Doh! Quite glad I put a bag over the hose to stop contamination as it's now full of fluid as the whole system drained and will need a complete bleed. Oh well. I have the fluid so good exercise to put new in with a caliper change.

Winter bike = done apart from mudguards and then setup the brakes.

Good work! Actually rode rim brakes in the wet outside last monday for the first time in probably 1.5-2 years. Not as sketchy as I remember but did ride extra cautiously as not a bike I'm used to the handling of (as it normally sits on Zwift). 25mm tyres and 80/90 psi isn't as harsh as I remember either... Very twitchy though, but that could be the bike setup as not great (but great for Zwift!).

Had my deep winter Rapha gloves on and my left hand was numb still by the time I got in, right hand was fine, think I'll be moving to the lobsters for the morning rides in from now, far too painful to put up with.

Damn that's really suffering, your ride temp shows that as 'only' zero, but I imagine windchill was below zero?

Horrific wind&rain early on here means I currently don't have a bike with guards so I drove to work (and being too lazy last night to fit my caliper). Getting our bathroom done at home, so taken 2 days holiday this week, with no bath/shower the anticipated Zwift sessions haven't happened as washing over a sink isn't ideal at the best of times, nevermind being extra smelly from Zwifting! Dentist tomorrow also means driving again, so my riding this week is going to be 1 commute - 4.8 miles... Kinda short this week, so rest week for me?! Maybe as I've been good I can get away with 2 weekend rides...

 

[SoliD]

Damn that's really suffering, your ride temp shows that as 'only' zero, but I imagine windchill was below zero?

Yeah it's pretty rubbish! Ohwell, get used to putting up with it after a while.

 

[Roady]

Yeah it's pretty rubbish! Ohwell, get used to putting up with it after a while.

Someone I work with is doing an overnight 'sleepout' thing for Charity in Bristol tomorrow night. Someone she knows has given her some heated hand warmers, which are like a little pad to slip into gloves. I'd seen them before for motorbike riders and I think we'd discussed them here before but drawn a blank on how to supply a 12v. The ones she has run from a pair of 9v batteries and last 'up to 6 hours' which sounds amazing and would be suitable for some commuting gloves.

I've not seen them but have asked her to take a picture and let me know how good they are, can hopefully make the brand out from that.

I don't need them for commuting but really suffer when snowboarding.

 

[Berger]

Nipped a little problem in the bud. Noticed the upper headset bearing was a little loose when installed. Poor tolerance on the frame rather than wear from use I think.

Originally I just used anti seize, torqued up the compression bolt on the steerer and it felt OK in the stand.

But with wheels & brakes on today it had a little back/forth play and could see it move slightly.

I’ve removed it, cleaned it up and gone with Loctite 641 bearing retainer. I can’t remember how much gap it can take up but it does go off fairly hard.

I have reassembled and left it to set. If I have no joy with that then maybe a “beer can” shim unless there is a more professional approach....

 

[mrthingyx]

£2K TT bike, Am I right in thinking the Canyon is the best bet here:
Felt AR5
Canyon Speedmax CF7
Cervelo P2

Also saw a Vitus Auro CR - but never heard of them before. So no idea if I should even give it a consideration? The Felt and Cervelo are a bit cheaper but harder to find (I guess stock is changing over to 2020?)

I cant go much more than 2K. Will be used for Biathlons and HAS to be a TT bike (no compromise)

Second hand Cervelo P2 and some fancy wheels.

 

[Jonny ///M]

Nipped a little problem in the bud. Noticed the upper headset bearing was a little loose when installed. Poor tolerance on the frame rather than wear from use I think.

Originally I just used anti seize, torqued up the compression bolt on the steerer and it felt OK in the stand.

But with wheels & brakes on today it had a little back/forth play and could see it move slightly.

I’ve removed it, cleaned it up and gone with Loctite 641 bearing retainer. I can’t remember how much gap it can take up but it does go off fairly hard.

I have reassembled and left it to set. If I have no joy with that then maybe a “beer can” shim unless there is a more professional approach....

Are you sure it is the right bearing?

You could have an IS41 36 x 45 angle bearing on IS42 45 x 45 angle frame.

 

[SoliD]

Someone I work with is doing an overnight 'sleepout' thing for Charity in Bristol tomorrow night. Someone she knows has given her some heated hand warmers, which are like a little pad to slip into gloves. I'd seen them before for motorbike riders and I think we'd discussed them here before but drawn a blank on how to supply a 12v. The ones she has run from a pair of 9v batteries and last 'up to 6 hours' which sounds amazing and would be suitable for some commuting gloves.

I've not seen them but have asked her to take a picture and let me know how good they are, can hopefully make the brand out from that.

I don't need them for commuting but really suffer when snowboarding.

Yeah motorcyclist at work has one that plugs into the bike for gloves and jacket along with heated grips. I only suffer on the commute badly, think it's mainly because I roll out of bed and onto the bike within 20 mins so not warmed my body up at all even putting everything on rads etc.

 

[Berger]

Are you sure it is the right bearing?

You could have an IS41 36 x 45 angle bearing on IS42 45 x 45 angle frame.

I didn’t check but it was an FSA for Kinesis headset and came out of that box... not guaranteed to be right I know.

 

[Roady]

I have reassembled and left it to set. If I have no joy with that then maybe a “beer can” shim unless there is a more professional approach....

If you do that you've gotta get one of these... https://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/beertastic-topcap.htm

Or a stem captain. These guys do all sorts of things for top caps, including something I've wanted to see for a while - integrated compass!

Yeah motorcyclist at work has one that plugs into the bike for gloves and jacket along with heated grips. I only suffer on the commute badly, think it's mainly because I roll out of bed and onto the bike within 20 mins so not warmed my body up at all even putting everything on rads etc.

Similar here, although I'm awake longer these days due to mini^me, still not prepared for the freezing cold morning commute! I layer up a crazy amount due to my really short commute. Even a slow one is only 15 mins with only a couple of minutes of sustained riding. No chance of warming up!

 

[Shamrock]

Yeah motorcyclist at work has one that plugs into the bike for gloves and jacket along with heated grips. I only suffer on the commute badly, think it's mainly because I roll out of bed and onto the bike within 20 mins so not warmed my body up at all even putting everything on rads etc.

Ah yes, the annual struggle with cold hands in winter. My most effective setup is now 3 layers:

Rapha Deep Winter (sized up to M from XS for space) > Defeet Dura gloves > Liner glove

Pre-heated on the radiator of course.

 

[SoliD]

Ah yes, the annual struggle with cold hands in winter. My most effective setup is now 3 layers:

Rapha Deep Winter (sized up to M from XS for space) > Defeet Dura gloves > Liner glove

Pre-heated on the radiator of course.

Yep, I've found just sweating everywhere else seems to help some. I have L deep Winter and can fit a liner in underneath so will give that a go, although got the Rapha Lobsters this year which I've always found best but you lose so much dexterity, probably no more than if I have a liner under the deep winters.

 

[Shamrock]

you lose so much dexterity,

Good excuse to have Di2 on the winter bike.

 

[Roady]

1x synco shift or whatever it is, or isn't that the FD that syncro uses or does it also do the rear?

Hoping next year I'll be posting all over here about it annoying you guys with my problems...!

 

[Berger]

Technical solution seems to work well.

Loctite didn’t set so the gap must be too large.

https://ibb.co/Xz3T1Tk
https://ibb.co/bg2cmVr

 

[Lethal`]

Technical solution seems to work well.

Loctite didn’t set so the gap must be too large.

https://ibb.co/Xz3T1Tk
https://ibb.co/bg2cmVr

Brewdog Punk IPA?

 

[Berger]

Brewdog Punk IPA?

That’s it.

I still have some play, I think the carbon expanding steerer doesn’t provide enough clamping force compared to a usual star nut and the split ring can move about a bit.

When torqued up (8nm) you can still easily turn the stem and the spacers on the stem. On any of my other bikes there is some resistance to these.

Will see if I have a washer to put ontop of the split ring first to make sure it’s not the top cap fouling but it doesn’t look like it.

 

[Jonny ///M]

Sounds like the steerer is too long, the top cap will be bottoming on the bung rather than pushing on the stem properly to compress it.

Easy test is sticking an extra spacer above the stem and seeing if the play is taken away after that.

What you describe with the top cover touching the frame would give you tight stem and spacers but also tight steering.

 

[Berger]

Sounds like the steerer is too long, the top cap will be bottoming on the bung rather than pushing on the stem properly to compress it.

Easy test is sticking an extra spacer above the stem and seeing if the play is taken away after that.

What you describe with the top cover touching the frame would give you tight stem and spacers but also tight steering.

I did both at once haha! Least if I post up my workings then other people can follow and see what pitfalls there are.

Removed the top cover and added a 20mm spacer. With the spacers holding the split ring down I can torque up no issue and you can see what’s going on. No movement or play anymore.

Will reassemble and make sure I have sufficient clearance, I must have only been a fraction of a mm short for the steerer to foul and it to not be noticeable by eye.

The bung is this style and while it’s not what I’d have chosen it seems to work OK. It can stick a little bit and not expand at first, needs some resistance before it will wind out. https://winstanleysbikes.co.uk/kinesis-22mm-bung-for-tripster-fork

 

[Jonny ///M]

Those bungs are good because they provide a good deep area to resist the clamping of the stem.

Usually undo it a bit and give the bolt a tap forces the lower chamfered piece out to remove it easier.

The problem with the bung is the thick top lip, most people score the steerer then cut a few mm under it but you have to cut much more off then add the bung.

 

[Berger]

Those bungs are good because they provide a good deep area to resist the clamping of the stem.

Usually undo it a bit and give the bolt a tap forces the lower chamfered piece out to remove it easier.

The problem with the bung is the thick top lip, most people score the steerer then cut a few mm under it but you have to cut much more off then add the bung.

Reassembled, checked my spacer amount, I have 7mm clearance same as before, torqued up and it’s fine this time, just a little finicky when you first start to expand it perhaps.

Id have picked one more like the BBB with the three “wings” which expand and compress onto the steerer but since this came with the fork and was FOC.

The shim in the headset won’t hurt and double checking everything else at the same time was worth it.

Edit: I changed to the BBB expander and the quality is much better. The chinenglish instructions were still incorrect but its not difficult to work out, tighten bolt & expander expands.