Building a Gate

Soldato
OP
Joined
20 Feb 2004
Posts
21,363
Location
Hondon de las Nieves, Spain
Gate 1 is done (just needs a final coat of stain)

Was dry fitting the boards to check they fit

fpwZ9y2.jpg

They didn't! I've measured and re-measured this about 5 times!

GZSZfqn.jpg

Took all the boards out so i could cut off an equal amount from both sides. Put them back in and now it was too short. Presumably i'd left some gaps in the T&G the first time around and then as the gaps were a bit more open the second time they slotted together easier. I ended up getting a 90cm ruler i have which is 1mm and using that as a packer. Putting each board in and nailing it into place and then it all worked nicely.

And it's done. Not a screw in sight so i'm pretty happy. Definitely things i can improve on for the other 2 gates. Mainly, if you're using 12mm dowel. Don't switch over to a 10mm drill bit one day and forget. Drill the hole and then wonder why your dowels keep snapping in half when you're hammering them in!

TYuzoSZ.jpg

There's also some pooling of stain along edges where it's ran and i've not caught it. Am hoping i can tidy that up.
 
Soldato
Joined
19 May 2005
Posts
18,059
Location
Lancashire
Awesome job, looks great! You did the right thing by leaving a gap between each board as it means in really humid weather the boards can expand and wont end up cupping.
 
Soldato
OP
Joined
20 Feb 2004
Posts
21,363
Location
Hondon de las Nieves, Spain
Cheers

Forgot to mention one small issue. I'd put some black bin bags over the table when i was staining the frame, then put the boards on and caught some of the bin bag in the groove. You can see the bit sticking out (middle bottom section just off centre to the right). Hoping i can scrape it out easy enough!

It's also a lot heavier than i expected. Will have to call the neighbour round to help hang it!

On my bracing. For the other gates. Would i be better to cut the wood so it presses into the corner rather than how i've done it or does it not matter much?
 
Soldato
Joined
12 Dec 2004
Posts
3,233
Location
the south
Excellent work Marv you should be proud of them.

Glad to see you pinned the boards and did not glue them. The main reason for not gluing the boards is to allow for movement in the timber. It being soft wood I suspect you will see a lot of seasonal movement in the wood.
Had you glued the boards they could split at the weakest point or bow away from the frame entirely, this is also why you allow a gap between boards.

Your bracing is fine as you need to stay above 45° to benefit from having them however for maximum strength you should notch them into the rails to prevent them from skewing.

This video explains it at 2.00 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D9g4c8-CYTY

Another tip is to try and alternate the grain direction on your boards, not always possible but can help to reduce cupping.

The bin bag shouldn't be a worry, leave it be if it can't be seen or pick it out with a chisel if you can.

Lastly make sure you put plenty of preservative on the end grain bottom of the boards as they will suck up water like a sponge.

Great work, well done.
 
Soldato
OP
Joined
20 Feb 2004
Posts
21,363
Location
Hondon de las Nieves, Spain
Your bracing is fine as you need to stay above 45° to benefit from having them however for maximum strength you should notch them into the rails to prevent them from skewing.

Great, it's around 60° so should be ok, i've also used biscuits with the braces which will hopefully help them skewing also.

Good call on alternating the grain direction. I'll try remember that for the next ones!
 
Soldato
OP
Joined
20 Feb 2004
Posts
21,363
Location
Hondon de las Nieves, Spain
Well being the lazy git I am. I finally pulled my finger out and finished the double gates yesterday.

Bit nervous at the moment as it’s really windy and the floor bolt and latch never got delivered so they’re held together with some twine and a few clamps!

A last minute change of hinge meant the gates were a bit short so I had to stick posts inside each previous fence post. I initially planned to use Field Gate hinges like the other gate. But because of the big gap they leave I figured hook and strap ones would be better.

They’re 600mm and not far off half the width of the gate so hoping they’ll suffice.




A
lso debating the best way of securing the gates. I like the idea of the throw over style. But with it being soft wood it seems to scratch easily and not sure how well it’d deal with that.
 
Soldato
OP
Joined
20 Feb 2004
Posts
21,363
Location
Hondon de las Nieves, Spain
Cheers guys.

Well lazy because my wife has set a spreadsheet up with a list of my jobs and a date where she stops being patient and pays someone to come and do them.

She's targeted my biggest weakness. Being cheap!


Have gone with the throw over type latch. Will see what it does to the wood after a bit of use, but feels like the best option. At the moment it can get pretty windy and they're basically huge sails as they are so the throw over feels the most secure.
 
Soldato
OP
Joined
20 Feb 2004
Posts
21,363
Location
Hondon de las Nieves, Spain
Here's the other side

UJcOhfo.png

I need to adjust the post though. It lines up at the top but is out at the bottom. I'm 99% sure it's not the gate thats twisted!

I fitted the throw over latch on Saturday, still waiting on the drop bolt. Annoyingly the hinge pit rubs and has scratched the wood. Might have to use a washer or something.

It's coated in 4 coats of Sikkens so should be safe from the weather :)
 
Back
Top Bottom