Quote for electric work

[Ahleckz]

I'm looking to rent out a two bedroom flat, and got an EICR completed yesterday and just wanted to sense check the quote:



The consumer unit needs replaced, I accept that. Is £400+VAT OK?
Socket replacement - I need a new socket put in for my cooker. £40+VAT seems OK for this but unsure?
IP Light Replacement - There is "minimal IP protection on bathroom light". I think this is only a recommendation, so if that's the case I don't think I'll go ahead with that.
Kitchen Light Switch - £35 + VAT to replace a switch seems high. I can do this myself, right?
Continuity - I think I have a socket which needs replaced. I'd plan to replace this myself like for like but regardless I'll have to pay this.
Shower Cable - Again, I think this is a recommendation so don't think I'd do it.

So, main questions - Is consumer unit pricing sensible? Can I replace a light switch myself?

 

[SeatIbiza]

Doesn't seem excessive and yes you can replace sockets/switches etc. Just make sure the mains are off

 

[pepp77]

Doesn't seem excessive and yes you can replace sockets/switches etc. Just make sure the mains are off

In my house I have 5 different areas I can turn off, upstairs power, upstairs lights, downstairs power, downstairs lights and then kitchen. I wasn't originally aware the kitchen was separate from downstairs power and had a nice little shock when I decided to change a kitchen socket after only turning off downstairs power!

 

[SeatIbiza]

I'd go for the main breaker personally, better safe than sorry and for changing a switch or socket it's only 15 mins or so off.

 

[JRJ]

Seems ok'ish its a lot of labour cost majority of it is DIY, switches and plugs are few £ each, consumer board for a 2 bed flat easily under £80/£90 fully kitted cant see there being much to connect up in a flat? £400 I would say to do a larger house with a few rings/lights/shower/oven/garage.

 

[Maundie]

In my house I have 5 different areas I can turn off, upstairs power, upstairs lights, downstairs power, downstairs lights and then kitchen. I wasn't originally aware the kitchen was separate from downstairs power and had a nice little shock when I decided to change a kitchen socket after only turning off downstairs power!

Don't always rely on that, I was decorating one of the spare bedrooms in my house and switched the upstairs sockets off at the breaker, checked the (albeit different) sockets in the bedroom (I had a radio plugged into it which obviously went off) so assumed all the upstairs sockets were off boom massive belt when changing the socket.

Just finished decorating the other spare bedroom (which is the wfh/study) and when I changed the light switch all the upstairs lights work off the upstairs breaker apart from the landing light. I'm sure this house was built on a Friday afternoon after Bob had been for a few pints for lunch.

 

[LeeUK]

Does it need replaced though? If it was installed to the current regs at the time of installation then it is still legal.

I saw a YT video once where some folk have had a 16th edition CU that was installed to the T and fully conformed to the 16th regs, replaced for a new 18th edition CU only it was installed by a cowboy with loads of corners cut and in the end was a bad job. All because they thought they had to have a new box.

 

[Ahleckz]

Thanks guys, some good advice.

I'm going to go back and ask what unit they are planning on supplying, it seems a bit pricey based on how much they cost but get that there is some labour (albeit, isn't it just plugging stuff in?).
I'll ask about the continuity, I think I know what the issue is (a picture hit a socket, and dislodged the wires inside so hopefully if I can connect that back then the continuity shouldn't be an issue)...
The socket for the oven, there is a spur I think with a blanking plate but I'm not very confident about putting in a new socket so I think I'll just let them do that.

I'm not going to replace the light, unless they say I have to and then I'll be looking at getting a much cheaper one and doing it myself! £90 to fit a light, no thanks.
Kitchen light switch, I can replace it like for like for £4 so will be doing that myself.
I don't see the need for trunking the shower cable.

Should save myself £200, maybe more if I can sort the continuity and then hopefully get some money off for the unit.

Does it need replaced though? If it was installed to the current regs at the time of installation then it is still legal.

I saw a YT video once where some folk have had a 16th edition CU that was installed to the T and fully conformed to the 16th regs, replaced for a new 18th edition CU only it was installed by a cowboy with loads of corners cut and in the end was a bad job. All because they thought they had to have a new box.

This is the list of faults with it, so I think that it does need replaced but I'm clearly not an electrician! But I do think it's a bit pricey.

C2 Main live terminal damaged

C2 Signs of thermal damage on MCB’s

C2 Circuits not adequately fused protected

C2 Consumer unit not to IP4X

C3 Consumer unit is made of combustible materials

C3 Absence of circuit charts

 

[LeeUK]

Sounds like he wants to sell you a new box for £400. All that can be fixed without changing the box.

 

[ozaudio]

£35 to change a switch and £40 to change a socket? lol. whats his hourly rate? £300 it will take minutes to change both.

 

[checjb]

If you want to replace the socket covers yourself, get yourself a socket tester (e.g. Kewtech 103). They're about £10-15, will confirm if there is power (they squeal when there is power so get it going then turn off the circuit and you're golden when it stops making a racket) and can even advise if you have any issues.

 

[MatteH Oxford]

£35 to change a switch and £40 to change a socket? lol. whats his hourly rate? £300 it will take minutes to change both.

The required training, inspection, testing, insurance, tools & equipment, transport, estimate write up time, accounts etc etc all have to be paid and covered amongst other things.

 

[robj20]

Seems a lot to me. Your allowed to do work on a CU that doesn't meet current regulations, it goes down as upgrade or modification and a note gets made that the CU doesn't meet current regs. So you could instantly get rid of the £400.

No need to go back to him and ask what CU hrs fitting it tells you in the quote at the top.
The rest you could do yourself, just buy a tester for less then £50, and test everything you change or fit.

 

[ZG002]

It's a touch high but I'm not familiar with the prices in Glasgow.

Anything with a C1 / C2 on the report needs to be addressed either by yourself or someone else, there is nothing stopping you getting a second quote else where, the report does not tie you to that electrician.

At a guess the CU is fairly old and repairing it is either not possible due to obsolete parts or it's just easier to replace, £400 is a touch high but not excessive.

Do you have a list of the observations and the codes.

 

[Adam_151]

Consider asking him if he'd consider doing it on day works, quite often quoted works are higher because he's got to cover the risk he takes of unexpected things popping up. I'd expect he'd charge you a full day (in the range of £260-£300) and then upto £200 of materials.

The existing board might be able to be sorted without replacing it, but that depends on if MCBs are available for it etc. (is photo available?) A new board 'might' be the best option, I'd be wary about BG though, their RCDs are all type AC afaik, theres been a bit of a move to type A, and its possible that type AC might be recommended for upgrade in a few years time. Its a shame because the build quality of BG boards is pretty good. I'd generally go for Hager in most cases these days.

 

[LeeUK]

A lot of it is just money making like not being IP4X and made of "combustible materials" - they were legit when they were installed and they don't need to be ripped out just because the newer regs forbid them.

 

[ZG002]

A lot of it is just money making like not being IP4X and made of "combustible materials" - they were legit when they were installed and they don't need to be ripped out just because the newer regs forbid them.

Unless he has coded them as such then no.

For example he coded the CU made of combustible materials (plastic) as C3, which is improvement recommend but doesn't need doing to provide a satisfactory report.

Having a big hole in your CU affecting IP rating has always been an issue.... thus C2.

That's the problem with advice in the forum, unless you know you are getting it from someone actually qualified like Adam or myself it's often misleading.

 

[LeeUK]

What I've also said though if you do go for a new metal IP rated board, that it is installed correctly. Plenty get installed with gaping big holes in the back of them without the correct use of glands etc which defeats the object. I've seen loads of bad installs on YT.

 

[Ahleckz]

Thanks for the replies. I think I'll get a quote from someone else at the very least. The original company have sent over my failing EICR report. I trust if I get someone else to fix the issues, and they give me a certificate of small works completed then I'm compliant?

I'm just trying to save some money, as I also need to buy a new sodding fridge freezer for the place and just put a new boiler in a couple months ago. I'm not one of these terrible BTL people, I just happened to move in with my girlfriend and planned to rent my place out for a year as the plan is to buy a house if we can handle living together! Bah!

Here are pictures of the fuse box:

They have said this about installing a new board:

The consumer unit we are fitting is a British General RCD protected consumer unit with new 16mm meter tails and appropriate glands etc.


Breakdown for the consumer unit is:

Labour 4 hours @ £60 plus vat, £240 plus vat

Materials £160 plus vat

Total £400 plus vat

It's a touch high but I'm not familiar with the prices in Glasgow.

Anything with a C1 / C2 on the report needs to be addressed either by yourself or someone else, there is nothing stopping you getting a second quote else where, the report does not tie you to that electrician.

At a guess the CU is fairly old and repairing it is either not possible due to obsolete parts or it's just easier to replace, £400 is a touch high but not excessive.

Do you have a list of the observations and the codes.

This is what they've put down.

C2 Main live terminal damaged

C2 Signs of thermal damage on MCB’s

C2 Circuits not adequately fused protected

C2 Consumer unit not to IP4X

C3 Consumer unit is made of combustible materials

C3 Absence of circuit charts

To rectify the above C2 and C3 issues a new consumer unit is required


C1 Access to live terminal behind oven, a new double socket is required

C2 Damaged light switch in kitchen, new light switch required

C2 No continuity of line conductor on socket ring main

C3 Minimal IP protection on bathroom light, Recommend fitting new IP rated light.

C3 Shower cable requires to be clipped correctly

Consider asking him if he'd consider doing it on day works, quite often quoted works are higher because he's got to cover the risk he takes of unexpected things popping up. I'd expect he'd charge you a full day (in the range of £260-£300) and then upto £200 of materials.

The existing board might be able to be sorted without replacing it, but that depends on if MCBs are available for it etc. (is photo available?) A new board 'might' be the best option, I'd be wary about BG though, their RCDs are all type AC afaik, theres been a bit of a move to type A, and its possible that type AC might be recommended for upgrade in a few years time. Its a shame because the build quality of BG boards is pretty good. I'd generally go for Hager in most cases these days.

I think that's the issue, I've put a photo above but I don't think the parts are available. Edit - I can get some new breakers (and the thing that the main power cable comes into the property). Seems to me I could buy the parts, get an electrician to replace them for a lot cheaper.

Anyone in Glasgow fancy some work?...

 

[ZG002]

Yeah, those parts aren't available new I don't think. I'd personaly recommend a new CU.

Few circuits doubled up there also which could do with their own protection, may not be enough room in existing cu.

The bathroom light doesn't need doing, the shower cable either. a box of clips costs very little and you could easily tidy that up yourself, Change the switch yourself.

Did they walk away from that C1 (the cooker) or did they tape it up? If it's just a missing cooker outlet you could easily replace yourself also.

Ring final continuity can be tricky if not where you think it is, I'd take a look and if obvious then fix if not I'd let an electrician handle that.

Once you have done the little stuff get the CU changed.

You could get minor works certificates for each item but an installation certificate will need to be issued for the CU change and you could ask them to check your work and have the description cover all the fixes made
That will then be the certificate you would use for compliance.