70L Cement mixer - any good ?

[j.col]

I've not got the grout yet and considering that joint it simple that you mentioned. I had a read up about it and it says


With this in mind should I be using SBR in the mortar mix as surely this would make it waterproof.

ALSO

Reading this :https://jointit.com/products/joint-it-simple/step-by-step-guide/

it says joint depth MINIMUM of 25mm deep, well porcelain is 20mm thick therefore joint depth is 20mm deep.

We dont use SBR in the mortar mix, only in the slurry.
A 7:1 mix is actually water permeable, once the jointing compound is cured, the jointing compound is then water proof, but you need the permeable layer underneath for the water to drain to allow the compound to cure. All jointing compounds that use water in the installation require this.

Even though it states minimum 25mm depth of the joints, 20mm is fine, we have used Joint-it simple on dozens of porcelain patios.
Just make sure you remove any mortar that squeezes up between the joints.

"Most resin mortar manufacturers stipulate 30mm minimum depth, which is a good guide, but for patios, as long as there is NOT LESS than 20mm depth, that should be adequate." https://www.pavingexpert.com/patio_rejoint_01

also its upto you regarding the sand used, in my 25+ years experience, we have found using building sand as the mortar bed gives better results

 

[dal]

Thanks for your input. Well rightly or wrongly I'm using SBR in mortar with a 6:1 sharp sand cement mix. I think I'm going to use easy grout for the joints, it states a 20mm depth minimum & doesn't need a permeable cement under it.

 

[j.col]

No worries mate, tbh the finish is more important imo.
Set out your levels first so you know where the water is going to flow.
Take your time, don't walk on any slabs for a few hours after laying.
Scrape out joints,
Have a damp sponge always at hand as it can be messy.
Good luck

 

[200sols]

also its upto you regarding the sand used, in my 25+ years experience, we have found using building sand as the mortar bed gives better results

From paving expert..

'What is NOT suitable as a laying course material is any form of Building Sand. This is the sand used to make a bricklaying mortar, and it may be known by a range of other names: soft sand, masonry sand, plastering sand, pointing sand: any of these are NOT suitable.'

 

[j.col]

From paving expert..

'What is NOT suitable as a laying course material is any form of Building Sand. This is the sand used to make a bricklaying mortar, and it may be known by a range of other names: soft sand, masonry sand, plastering sand, pointing sand: any of these are NOT suitable.'

Look mate, i haven't replied to any of your previous posts but tbh are you trolling me?
I am trying to advise (all be it wrongly in your opinion) a member, at least i am trying, what are you doing?
Anyone can do google searches and state "industry standard" etc... but i know from my own experience what works best in the situation imo.
Have you any experience yourself?

I have over 25+ years experience laying patios, we always use building sand for most slabs (except the 50mm council slabs) and we have never had a problem with the mortar base.
We often do repeat work on customers houses many years after work been finished and we have never had a complaint yet.


Good luck OP, if you need any help, drop 200sols a message, he seems to be an expert

 

[200sols]

Look mate, i haven't replied to any of your previous posts but tbh are you trolling me?

Not trolling at all, just advising what is best. Building sand is not the right stuff for the job and as you linked to paving expert you must think it is a viable source. Just because you have done something for 25 years it doesn't mean you have been doing it right.