Active backplate cooling block from MP5Works

[3t3P]

Just came across this on some YT videos.

It's expensive at £89.99 would consider more at £49.99/59.99 price point.

Seems to provide some more stability to 3080 OC, bet 3090 users will benefit further.

Not sure about push fit connections but they say they're certified to higher than normal loops pressures.

https://youtu.be/TCjlu1G8TIE

 

[MikeTimbers]

Yes, it was linked in the one of the 3090 threads in the Graphics Card forum. The very limited info provided on their website and in that video suggests that one would put a pair of Y fittings on the way into and out of the GPU and plumb this block in parallel. How much flow would divert is unknown because no data has been provided for the resistance of the tubing/block. The block looks very open but the tubing is tiny (2.5mm ID).

I'd like to see some flow tests when plumbed into various tube sizes and flow rates/pressures. But to me it's just too expensive. They would be advised to make the block with simple G1/4 female connectors like any other component.

What I've never understood about high-powered cards is why the backplates provide so little cooling. No fins, no air-flow, nothing. I've got a TitanX for example with a fullcover block but the backplate is super toasty. But I'm not going to put a £90 very basic block on the back.

 

[3t3P]

Was dreaming up ways of mounting my old heatkiller CPU cooler to a backplate.

But seeing as I don't even have the GPU yet it's academic.

I see why they did it (for SLI apparently) but agree more palatable to me if 1/4 thread fittings compatible.

Easiest solution will be a fan zip tied to the back of the GPU. Did that years ago and although GPUs weren't as monstrous then it made a good difference to core temps which was not expected!

 

[pastymuncher]

For £90 it looks extremely gash, especially the way it's mounted to the card but I suppose there is no way to get it to fit any card due to the vastly different ways coolers and backplates are mounted. The tubing is only 4mm so you are not going to want that in the main loop as it will kill the flow. Better would be to fit a pair of T pieces into the loop so it won't interfere with the rest of the loop. It also seems to rely on the backplate being in contact with the card to cool the rear of the card. If the backplate doesn't contact the card, which a lot of them don't, then what's the point? A metal backplate would also be the best combination for maximum heat transfer. My cards stock backplate is metal but doesn't contact the card. What it does have though is perforations to allow the heat through, not that it get's particularly warm anyway.

I think they need to rethink this. The best way for this to work would be to do away with the backplate altogether and have a full size thermal pad between the card and this block which could actually make this useful and properly cool the rear of the card (there is actually a water cooled backplate available to be used with my Aquacomputer GTX1070/1080 Pascal block so it's not a new idea). Maybe keep the bungee way of mounting as there is no way they are going to cater for all makes different mounting holes. They should also make the fittings G1/4" so it's compatible with standard fittings.

 

[Bubo]

I still have loads of Enzotech copper ram sinks left over from when I used to use a core only you block on and old old card, so when I eventually get a 3080 sometime in the next fumfty years, the back plate will probably end up looking like an orange porcupine, with a fan positioned above. This water block does look like it will knacker your flow if you try to have in series I agree, and is just too expensive for what it is.

 

[3t3P]

I still have loads of Enzotech copper ram sinks left over from when I used to use a core only you block on and old old card, so when I eventually get a 3080 sometime in the next fumfty years, the back plate will probably end up looking like an orange porcupine, with a fan positioned above. This water block does look like it will knacker your flow if you try to have in series I agree, and is just too expensive for what it is.

It's designed to be used in parallel.

 

[OC2000]

I can actually see this working without much of a mess in my setup. I like the idea of the tooless design too, which reduces the risk, makes selling the 3090 with water block attached easier later.

I can have one tube routed behind the chassis and into the multi port SR2 at the bottom, and the 2nd routed behind the chassis and connected to the internal unused inlet on my EK O11 D XL front mounted distro plate.

The cost of £90 isn't so bad when you have to consider the cost of additional fittings, Ram block and tubing. This also looks to cover more surface area than a 4X Ram block too. Just wondering if the supplied heat pad should be replaced by thermal Grizzly instead

I may pull the trigger on this.

 

[3t3P]

I can actually see this working without much of a mess in my setup. I like the idea of the tooless design too, which reduces the risk, makes selling the 3090 with water block attached easier later.

I can have one tube routed behind the chassis and into the multi port SR2 at the bottom, and the 2nd routed behind the chassis and connected to the internal unused inlet on my EK O11 D XL front mounted distro plate.

The cost of £90 isn't so bad when you have to consider the cost of additional fittings, Ram block and tubing. This also looks to cover more surface area than a 4X Ram block too. Just wondering if the supplied heat pad should be replaced by thermal Grizzly instead

I may pull the trigger on this.

If you do let us know how you get on!

 

[OC2000]

Will do. Just ordered it.

still need to wait for the 3090, water block and 5950x, although it seems I’ll be waiting longest for the Corsair QL120 fans as they’re suddenly out of stock everywhere.

I’ll connect it with a quick disconnect and temp probe to test differences.

 

[mp5works]

Will do. Just ordered it.

still need to wait for the 3090, water block and 5950x, although it seems I’ll be waiting longest for the Corsair QL120 fans as they’re suddenly out of stock everywhere.

I’ll connect it with a quick disconnect and temp probe to test differences.

Thanks for your order OC2000! Good luck with the overclocks

Feel free to ask any questions you might have.
I can definitely answer few concerns regarding the tubing etc.

BPC has to be connected in parallel, that`s the whole concept behind it.
Small OD tubing helps with keeping a low profile of the entire unit. It`s not only for multi GPU purposes but also to help you avoid other components in the system such as RAM, I/O shield or beefy CPU coolers even though that last one is very unlikely with the custom loops
Flexible tubing also allows you to place BPC anywhere on the backplate without the need for bulky and complicated manifolds. This alone would pretty much make it impossible to use with multi GPU systems.
As a `universal kit` it has to be pretty much plug&play. Bottlenecking the flow and going parallel makes the most sense.
Because we are trying to remove significantly low amount of heat over the large surface, amount of flow is not the limiting factor anyway.
Main goal was to not affect performance of the rest of the loop while cooling the backplate.
It is provided with standard G1/4" fittings to connect to the rest of the loop and can be connected pretty much anywhere in the loop as long as it is in parallel.
Also, this tubing can easily be trimmed to the desired length (more explained in the instructions manual which comes with the product).

Provided thermal pad is 6W/mK by Arctic and upgrading this pad won`t give you any real benefits. Most of the time overal performance of the unit will be limited by the quality and placement of the thermal pads provided with your GPU backplate itself. I`ve seen some cheap 3mm pads being used here and there

As for the bungee clips, yes it was a tough call but the only sensible solution at the time. They are designed to place downwards force onto the block and provide secure mount for the vertical GPUs.
We do still recommend using them even with horizontaly installed gpus, however BPC itself has some weight to it and you do get a choice of not using clips in horizontal configuration.
As long as you are not traveling with your PC this waterblock not going anywhere. Thermal pad itself provides a lot of grip on it own.
It`s call a "kit" for a reason so just play with it and see what works best for your application

I hope this make sense

 

[OC2000]

Thanks for your order OC2000! Good luck with the overclocks

Feel free to ask any questions you might have.
I can definitely answer few concerns regarding the tubing etc.

BPC has to be connected in parallel, that`s the whole concept behind it.
Small OD tubing helps with keeping a low profile of the entire unit. It`s not only for multi GPU purposes but also to help you avoid other components in the system such as RAM, I/O shield or beefy CPU coolers even though that last one is very unlikely with the custom loops
Flexible tubing also allows you to place BPC anywhere on the backplate without the need for bulky and complicated manifolds. This alone would pretty much make it impossible to use with multi GPU systems.
As a `universal kit` it has to be pretty much plug&play. Bottlenecking the flow and going parallel makes the most sense.
Because we are trying to remove significantly low amount of heat over the large surface, amount of flow is not the limiting factor anyway.
Main goal was to not affect performance of the rest of the loop while cooling the backplate.
It is provided with standard G1/4" fittings to connect to the rest of the loop and can be connected pretty much anywhere in the loop as long as it is in parallel.
Also, this tubing can easily be trimmed to the desired length (more explained in the instructions manual which comes with the product).

Provided thermal pad is 6W/mK by Arctic and upgrading this pad won`t give you any real benefits. Most of the time overal performance of the unit will be limited by the quality and placement of the thermal pads provided with your GPU backplate itself. I`ve seen some cheap 3mm pads being used here and there

As for the bungee clips, yes it was a tough call but the only sensible solution at the time. They are designed to place downwards force onto the block and provide secure mount for the vertical GPUs.
We do still recommend using them even with horizontaly installed gpus, however BPC itself has some weight to it and you do get a choice of not using clips in horizontal configuration.
As long as you are not traveling with your PC this waterblock not going anywhere. Thermal pad itself provides a lot of grip on it own.
It`s call a "kit" for a reason so just play with it and see what works best for your application

I hope this make sense

Thank you for the explanation. I was just about to email you guys if it could be trimmed as I am now planning on running it in parallel connecting to my bottom rad and then joining the gpu outlet tube with a Y splitter. This will save a huge hassle of routing it round the back and neatly placing it on one of the front distro plate inlet ports.

quick question though. From what you have mentioned in you post above, it will make little difference using thermal paste instead of a heat pad?

thanks

 

[mp5works]

From what you have mentioned in you post above, it will make little difference using thermal paste instead of a heat pad?

I would not recommend using thermal paste. Thermal pad will provide better contact in this application and definitely will prevent you from scratching your backplate.
Like I mentioned earlier, in most cases you will be limited by the heat transfer between PCB and the actual backplate so improving anything above that won`t improve anything imho.
I would concentrate on making sure your loop runs as cool as possible, that`s where you really see benefit

 

[OC2000]

I would not recommend using thermal paste. Thermal pad will provide better contact in this application and definitely will prevent you from scratching your backplate.
Like I mentioned earlier, in most cases you will be limited by the heat transfer between PCB and the actual backplate so improving anything above that won`t improve anything imho.
I would concentrate on making sure your loop runs as cool as possible, that`s where you really see benefit

Will I need the mounting kit with this back plate?

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109832479.pdf

Cheers

 

[mp5works]

Will I need the mounting kit with this back plate?

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109832479.pdf

Cheers

Yeah, I would grab one just in case. Standard clips provided are for most common backplates up to 3mm thickness.
Can you inbox me your order number? I will check if your order went out already.
If it`s still here I will sort this out for you.

 

[mp5works]

Looks like you got lucky by missing our DHL guy yesterday
I added 6mm clips to your parcel.

6MM clips set is also prefitted with standard lenght bungee cords but an extra cord is provided in case you need to extend them for wider backplates.
It`s super easy to do though. We use Lectite PowerFlex super glue to bond them but you can simply make a knot and push it into the clip eye for aesthetics.

 

[OC2000]

Looks like you got lucky by missing our DHL guy yesterday
I added 6mm clips to your parcel.

6MM clips set is also prefitted with standard lenght bungee cords but an extra cord is provided in case you need to extend them for wider backplates.
It`s super easy to do though. We use Lectite PowerFlex super glue to bond them but you can simply make a knot and push it into the clip eye for aesthetics.

Thanks for sorting that out! Lucky indeed

 

[LePhuronn]

del

 

[3t3P]

WHERE.
IS.
RGB.

Jk good to see you posting on the forums. Are there any LED holes though? I use white LEDs on my res and CPU block, could you introduce 3/5mm holes at the end easily?

 

[mp5works]

Are there any LED holes though? I use white LEDs on my res and CPU block, could you introduce 3/5mm holes at the end easily?

There aren`t any currently but yes it would be pretty straight forward to implement LED holes.
It was considered at one point but in the end we decided to not spoil the block with holes not many people would utilize and instead release a full RGB block evently.

Personally, I`m like 50/50 for adding LED holes still so might reconsider it -_-

 

[3t3P]

There aren`t any currently but yes it would be pretty straight forward to implement LED holes.
It was considered at one point but in the end we decided to not spoil the block with holes not many people would utilize and instead release a full RGB block evently.

Personally, I`m like 50/50 for adding LED holes still so might reconsider it -_-

Please put LED holes in!

https://youtu.be/lVoCP-pKjGA