Laying laminate plank flooring. The thin end isn't great

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Laying this down in my lounge the moment. The planks are locking in well on the long end, nice and smooth, but the short/thin end doesn't feel as smooth as I'd like and sometimes looks like half a mm gap.

I'm using an off cut after laying each plank to push the new plank together and hammering with a rubber mallet the top of the short end to lock it in, but it's not the result I'm hoping for.

Anything I could do to try improve the result? Will take a photo tomorrow if needed.

These are the albero grey laminate planks from wickes if that makes a difference
 
Soldato
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Going by a very quick look on the Wickes website, it seems that these are designed to have a gap or at least the black line between planks.
Have a close look at the edge of the planks, is there a small chamfer along the edge? it would form a very small "v" between each plank
Also these are click lock planks, you dont need to hit/hammer them.
Make sure on the end you are working at, when you fit the new plank, you fit it at a 30 degree angle first before lowering it to the floor.
You need to be working on the end with the longest "tongue" btw, maybe you are laying off the wrong end?
 
Soldato
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Thanks.

Yep I do the longest end first at 30 degree and it fits lovely in. I then lower it down. And then hammer the short end only gently which locks it in. And then use an off piece to gently push it all closer to close the gap but this only really works on the long end.

You're right about the v. But in the photo on the website you see how the darker line is on the long end where as the short end is almost invisible, it's the other way around for me. The long end is so close there is almost no line and i barely can feel it where as the short end you do get an almost shadow in it and can feel it a little too much if you run you hands over.
 
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Thanks.

Yep I do the longest end first at 30 degree and it fits lovely in. I then lower it down. And then hammer the short end only gently which locks it in. And then use an off piece to gently push it all closer to close the gap but this only really works on the long end.

You're right about the v. But in the photo on the website you see how the darker line is on the long end where as the short end is almost invisible, it's the other way around for me. The long end is so close there is almost no line and i barely can feel it where as the short end you do get an almost shadow in it and can feel it a little too much if you run you hands over.



Can you upload a photograph so we can see?
 
Soldato
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We went on a "laminate spree" recently. Open plan downstairs all the Golden Select stuff from Costco. It went down easy enough so we decided to do upstairs, but using some stuff on offer from Wickes - the Venezia Oak range.

We found that no matter what, certain planks would make the tiniest extra gap end-to-end. There was nothing we could do about it. It was so frustrating that the laminate went together easily and quickly enough but we couldn't eliminate the gaps.
 
Soldato
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I just recently fitted the Quick Step 12mm laminate flooring and it was a nightmare, we found we had to mallet every single plank down. Inserting the plank in 30 degree was fine but once it was pushed down there would either be a 1-2mm gap on the long and side plank. What we eventually did was cut a piece of the laminate and used that to hit with the hammer and lock the plank in. We initially ended up chipping a few planks using the metal tool to lock the laminate in but only used that the right at the end planks which did chip but wasn't a problem as the skirting would cover it.
 
Soldato
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That looks like a chamfer as someone else has mentioned. I specifically bought engineered oak flooring with a 'bevelled edge' all the way around each plank to give this affect (makes the individual planks stand out).

Good example of it here:

PVQhezgh.jpg
 
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Thanks guys. It may be that this wickes stuff is just designed like that and nothing we can do.

http://imgur.com/gallery/vIez1KH

I can't find a way to embed but here's the link. See how along the long end it's almost totally hidden the join in places, but the short end is well visible.


when I fitted my flooring (engineered wood flooring) I used a pull bar to close those gaps, have you been using one?
 
Soldato
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Agreed. That looks like it's made to look like that with a slight bevel.

From experience of having laminate fitted for a while, it's probably designed to increase the length of life of the floor. Those corners tend to be the places where you get the most wear. With the slight engineered bevel, it should prevevnt the corners snagging.
 
Soldato
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There is a bevel in the design but still there are gaps in some planks end-to-end and not in others.
While they're good for the money they're still at the budget end of laminate flooring, so I'm not fussed really.
 
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Just gone and got a bar and it's made no difference. Off cut piece was just as good.

how can u use a cut off piece on the short end, when it right against the wall?

You should use the pull bar on the short end whilst someone stands on the long end so it doesnt move.

then hammer with the pull bar on the short end , the gap should then be closing as you hammer.
 
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Looks like the design as others have said. However there should not be a gap all the way through to the floor (if that's the case, can't see it in the picture) , just at the top due to the bevel.

Not sure how you're doing it but put the long end in on its angle, about an inch or so gap from the short end connection. Then slide it with a little force to meet the short end. Hold the short ends together quite a tight and then lower it further until the joint locks. If still a gap then use the pull bar or something with some weight on the piece you're trying to connect the new piece to. If there's still a gap (more than the Bevel) then something isn't right!

Floor completely level? Boards not bowed? As that could be making the joint connection difficult
 
Soldato
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Looks like the design as others have said. However there should not be a gap all the way through to the floor (if that's the case, can't see it in the picture) , just at the top due to the bevel.

Not sure how you're doing it but put the long end in on its angle, about an inch or so gap from the short end connection. Then slide it with a little force to meet the short end. Hold the short ends together quite a tight and then lower it further until the joint locks. If still a gap then use the pull bar or something with some weight on the piece you're trying to connect the new piece to. If there's still a gap (more than the Bevel) then something isn't right!

Floor completely level? Boards not bowed? As that could be making the joint connection difficult

That's pretty much what I'm doing. I've done flooring before in 2 other rooms, maybe I wasn't so fussed about the tiny gaps as was utility and study, but I notice it more with these in the lounge.

I'm laying the floor over the existing laminate as it's nice and flat so didn't make sense to pull it up and find what might be uneven surface and further issues.

Here is another photo where you can see that noticeable shadow.

http://imgur.com/gallery/f4x5kg7
 
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