Caporegime
My only concern is if the 42” and supposedly the 31” inch being so cheap, will it be as good a set as the bigger screens. I would hope so if they are using the same tech across the board.
LG CX (C10) OLED 2020 Thread
- Thread starter Grim5
- Start date
If they use 4k120 OLED panels with HDMI 2.1 then they should be fine.
Caporegime
Let’s hope so as I badly need a new screen and tempted to just get the 48” cx but would be overkill for my desk and gaming setup.
42” is doable but the 31/32” would be perfect I think.
In my view, 32" is the maximum practical size for desk usage in both desktop productivity and gaming applications. 48" is TV size and is not ergonomic on a desk.
Soldato
- Joined
- 1 Jun 2014
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If the 32" is only going to be 1080P, it'd be a "no" for me. I hope the 42" is part of the G1 line-up, so that it gets the improvements over the C1 series.
Soldato
Not sure if people can help on my question but the LG OLED has a hardwire power plug meaning I really can't extend it without chopping the end and wiring up my own which I dont really want to do.
I have trunking where the TV will go but also seen you can get OE replacement power leads but not sure if there are ones longer than 1.5m. Anyone here had to hack or do anything with their power leads to fit their setup?
I have trunking where the TV will go but also seen you can get OE replacement power leads but not sure if there are ones longer than 1.5m. Anyone here had to hack or do anything with their power leads to fit their setup?
Caporegime
I find it hard to believe that, if they released a 32” OLED that it would be anything less than 4K minimum.
Soldato
Precisely.
I would also speculate that, as LG have 3-4 price points, dropping below 48" will compete with 2 other models (usually the lowest price point is <32"). So don't expect the mid tier 43" model and the 31" OLED to be identical in price. Realistically I'd speculate a £100 drop per size so if 48" was, say, £1000 (optimistic) then 31" would still be 750+. Total speculation but remember this technology would be outdoing the majority of high end monitors: same refresh rates and technology, but with a smart TV CPU and software, and OLED panel.
Soldato
- Joined
- 1 Jun 2014
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Vincent seemed to believe it.
Caporegime
Well if that’s the case, I hope not, then I’d definitely be put off by it.
The 31.5" and 27" model will not be in same class as the TV's. They will be produced by JOLED for starters rather then LG Display. These guys mostly produce for the Pro market. They look to be aimed at professionals rather then gamers. 60hz, HDR400, colour accuracy etc. They will really be competing against the Apple XDR monitors and similar ASUS ones. Thanks to TFTcentral: https://www.tftcentral.co.uk/blog/l...tor-announced-with-4k-for-professional-users/ there is a link through to BHP in america listing the 27" version of the monitor with same model number (aside the 27") as shown for the 32" at CES for nearly $3k: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1621993-REG/lg_27ep950_b_27_oled_uhd_tilt.html could be a placeholder I suppose but I doubt it. I expect the 31.5" would be closed to $4k.
So yeah, I suspect people are going to be disappointed if they think these initial smaller OLED, i.e the ones under the 42" TV model, will be gaming monitors and priced cheaply!
So yeah, I suspect people are going to be disappointed if they think these initial smaller OLED, i.e the ones under the 42" TV model, will be gaming monitors and priced cheaply!
Morning all,
How do people have their displays set for Dolby Vision? I'm watching Disney+ through my Xbox Series X and so am keen to make sure I've got it configured correctly. Currently I've got Dolby Vision set to 'Cinema' and haven't touch anything else.
How do people have their displays set for Dolby Vision? I'm watching Disney+ through my Xbox Series X and so am keen to make sure I've got it configured correctly. Currently I've got Dolby Vision set to 'Cinema' and haven't touch anything else.
Soldato
You don't really need to adjust much in the HDR picture modes, with DV I use cinema mostly, if I watch on a bright day I may switch to cinema home. I make sure all stuff like noise reduction, true motion is off.
If you use cinema home, turn on ai brightness under settings > general > ai service. This is needed for DV IQ, which I think is only really of benefit in bright room conditions though. For darker room cinema is the better choice personally.
Soldato
Has anybody managed to get Airplay working on their CX? If I try and connect from a Macbook or iPhone, it presents the 4-digit passcode and then just says "Airplay was disconnected" after entering it on the device.
Hey guys. I am having a weird problem where when I initially connected my LG CX to my RTX3090 using a HDMI 2.0b cable it worked fine with 4k60, RGB, 8-bit with HDMI Deep Colour Enabled. I had also of course changed the HDMI input to PC and Instant Game Response was also enabled. Gsync was enabled in drivers.
Then I mistakenly changed the setting to 10-bit and it disconnected with no signal. Ok no problem, so I reset the HDMI connections and started again. However, now the panel will ONLY output YCbCr420. Now if I try and enable HDMI Deep Colour I get an immediate disconnect and no signal. No hardware has changed... same ports and cable that were previously working fine. Latest Nvidia drivers with Gsync enabled and TV is on latest firmware.
One interesting thing I notice is that the TV no longer presents itself on my PC as a PC display with the green Nvidia logo, it now presents itself as a blue TV. In the list of supported resolutions, the 'PC' section is now limited to 1360 x 760 and no longer shows 4k. I have to select 4k in the 'Ultra HD, HD, SD' list instead. If I change the refresh rate to 30hz then I can once more select RGB and Full dynamic range.
It's like since I made the mistake with the setting my available bandwidth has halved. If the cable had not have been working fine before I would have said "dodgy cable". But it was working sweet as a nut for a full day of gaming heaven until I changed the setting to one that was out of spec of said cable.
Any ideas?
Then I mistakenly changed the setting to 10-bit and it disconnected with no signal. Ok no problem, so I reset the HDMI connections and started again. However, now the panel will ONLY output YCbCr420. Now if I try and enable HDMI Deep Colour I get an immediate disconnect and no signal. No hardware has changed... same ports and cable that were previously working fine. Latest Nvidia drivers with Gsync enabled and TV is on latest firmware.
One interesting thing I notice is that the TV no longer presents itself on my PC as a PC display with the green Nvidia logo, it now presents itself as a blue TV. In the list of supported resolutions, the 'PC' section is now limited to 1360 x 760 and no longer shows 4k. I have to select 4k in the 'Ultra HD, HD, SD' list instead. If I change the refresh rate to 30hz then I can once more select RGB and Full dynamic range.
It's like since I made the mistake with the setting my available bandwidth has halved. If the cable had not have been working fine before I would have said "dodgy cable". But it was working sweet as a nut for a full day of gaming heaven until I changed the setting to one that was out of spec of said cable.
Any ideas?
Ok I am a muppet and have now learnt a little about HDMI cable specs and how to better read them... seems like the cable I bought only supports 1080p at 60hz in the 15m version. The super weird thing is that it DID briefly work as a full bandwidth cable for a day before going boobs up... lol...Hey guys. I am having a weird problem where when I initially connected my LG CX to my RTX3090 using a HDMI 2.0b cable it worked fine with 4k60, RGB, 8-bit with HDMI Deep Colour Enabled. I had also of course changed the HDMI input to PC and Instant Game Response was also enabled. Gsync was enabled in drivers.
Then I mistakenly changed the setting to 10-bit and it disconnected with no signal. Ok no problem, so I reset the HDMI connections and started again. However, now the panel will ONLY output YCbCr420. Now if I try and enable HDMI Deep Colour I get an immediate disconnect and no signal. No hardware has changed... same ports and cable that were previously working fine. Latest Nvidia drivers with Gsync enabled and TV is on latest firmware.
One interesting thing I notice is that the TV no longer presents itself on my PC as a PC display with the green Nvidia logo, it now presents itself as a blue TV. In the list of supported resolutions, the 'PC' section is now limited to 1360 x 760 and no longer shows 4k. I have to select 4k in the 'Ultra HD, HD, SD' list instead. If I change the refresh rate to 30hz then I can once more select RGB and Full dynamic range.
It's like since I made the mistake with the setting my available bandwidth has halved. If the cable had not have been working fine before I would have said "dodgy cable". But it was working sweet as a nut for a full day of gaming heaven until I changed the setting to one that was out of spec of said cable.
Any ideas?
I am going to return the cable and buy a certified one that is guaranteed to provide full bandwidth at 15m. I would love a Ruipro HDMI2.1 15m cable but I am not paying £200...
Ok I am a muppet and have now learnt a little about HDMI cable specs and how to better read them... seems like the cable I bought only supports 1080p at 60hz in the 15m version. The super weird thing is that it DID briefly work as a full bandwidth cable for a day before going boobs up... lol...
I am going to return the cable and buy a certified one that is guaranteed to provide full bandwidth at 15m. I would love a Ruipro HDMI2.1 15m cable but I am not paying £200...
@lucid is probably a good person to advise but what I do know about trying to run HDMI at high bandwidths over long distances is that the cables are not cheap, not by a long shot.
My 48 CX seems to have died. Just turned itself off last night, then after 5 mins I managed to get it to turn back on, then 5 minutes later it did it again. But this time when the standby LED was on, i tried to turn the TV on but the LED just flashes 3 or 4 times and then won't turn on.
I left it unplugged overnight and tried this morning, same 3 flashes from the LED. So unplugged again and now the standby LED won't even light up.
I got it from Currys, would it be better to go through them or LG ?
I left it unplugged overnight and tried this morning, same 3 flashes from the LED. So unplugged again and now the standby LED won't even light up.
I got it from Currys, would it be better to go through them or LG ?
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Usually the store you bought it from is far quicker to get it sorted out and replace it.