Don't show @TheFew(this is what you may have coming fella)
Ha ha. I hope not! Roll on the weekend so I can get to it!
What have you done to your car today?
- Thread starter mattyprice4004
- Start date
Ha ha. I hope not! Roll on the weekend so I can get to it!
Soldato
Nice result on the wheels.
Kwik Fit marked the wife MINI wheels a couple of wheels ago so a paint repair place came out to fix them. Wheels off and in the van with a heat lamp so promising... done an okay job but nothing to shout about but atleast the paint they took off the spoke faces is back on.
Kwik Fit marked the wife MINI wheels a couple of wheels ago so a paint repair place came out to fix them. Wheels off and in the van with a heat lamp so promising... done an okay job but nothing to shout about but atleast the paint they took off the spoke faces is back on.
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Ok i give up, how can I get this bolt all the way out? Managed to pull it that far with a claw hammer but can't get a grip on it for the last little bit.
https://ibb.co/YbMz6Dn
https://ibb.co/p43DLzg
https://ibb.co/YbMz6Dn
https://ibb.co/p43DLzg
Soldato
Is that Jack under the arm? You want no preload, then a bit of wood to use a drift to hammer it out would be my plan of attack
Soldato
Does the bolt go all the way through? 1/4” drive extension hammered in from the other side should shift it.
Not sure why I didn't think of that.. angle was a bit awkward but found a long screwdriver and popped it out. Problem now is I expected the arm to just drop which is why the jack was under it, but the bottom of the strut is still fairly firm in there. I guess with the rust it needs prying out?
Soldato
Yeah liberal use of hammer again
I've just seen a method on YouTube where he shoves a scissor jack in there to push the arm down and then there is plenty of room to get it out. I've done a front one before so thought it would be the same but its quite different, arms are dead from undoing that bolt 
Soldato
Yea, that's what I had to do on the C1's same bolt! Complete pain and took way longer than it should have done for 1 bolt.I've just seen a method on YouTube where he shoves a scissor jack in there to push the arm down and then there is plenty of room to get it out. I've done a front one before so thought it would be the same but its quite different, arms are dead from undoing that bolt
Yeah proper hammer and a drift to knock the strut support down, if you still find you're lacking space to get it out you could *slightly* compress the spring in situ just to give a little bit more clearance, but looks like it'll fall straight out for you
Soldato
In my budget track car build it's now lowered, and will soon be wearing these BBSs. I have some Nankang NS2-Rs in 195/50/15s coming, some hubcentric spacers (5mm front, 15mm rears) and some spigot rings from 57.1 to 54.1 and we should be good! I have a few more things to tart up on it too before it's MOT equiv over here. Exhaust blowing at the joint, so have a new crush gasket for that and some poly bushes for the exhaust (prone to rattle).
Then we're booking the track day and I'll be teaching the wife how to hoon it round the track. Hoping she gets the bug... will make my own hobbies easier to justify
Oh, and I have some orange vinyl to go on it too in certain places...
Car owes us nothing, was a cheap buy and if it's good enough for bad obsession, it'll be good enough for me!
Hello fellow small car owner
Soldato
Nice! That's epic! What have you done to it?
Caporegime
Its City Car Cup spec. The series Bad Obsession Motorsport built a car for.
Soldato
Fitted a BWoody CAI from the states... and it is awesome!!! Will get some piccies in the daylight now it's fully in but didn't have time. So, specs on this are (and by all accounts from our stateside friends these are accurate!)...
Flowbench results:
Results as follows:
OEM intake w/oem filter = 799.5 cfm
OEM intake w/K&N drop in = 815.7 cfm
4" BWoody CAI = 1147.6 cfm
Flowbench results showed a whopping 348.1 cfm increase over the OEM air box!!
(Largest gains will be achieved with the 90mm throttle body.)
Dyno results:
Our intake was tested against the OEM intake and gained a whopping 18.7 WHP!
Flowbench results:
Results as follows:
OEM intake w/oem filter = 799.5 cfm
OEM intake w/K&N drop in = 815.7 cfm
4" BWoody CAI = 1147.6 cfm
Flowbench results showed a whopping 348.1 cfm increase over the OEM air box!!
(Largest gains will be achieved with the 90mm throttle body.)
Dyno results:
Our intake was tested against the OEM intake and gained a whopping 18.7 WHP!
Caporegime
Nice! CAI's make a big difference on some engines. Especially if they had choked airboxes to begin with!
Soldato
Nice! That's sweet as. I bet it's super fun! If I can get the Mrs to love motorsport with half that effort it'll be well spent!
Soldato
That's madness! Look beautiful as well. I love a well made bit of kit and that looks very well made.
Soldato
Yeqh exactly, it's lovely, nice and heavy and thought out... but unlike most CAI's, this one actually is i.e. it sits really low behind the bumper and gets fresh are from the inlets for cooling the brakes so it's not sucking up hot air from the engine like most fo them do. So, with a cheeky map from the Diablo Tuner should be rocking with around 30bhp extra!
Soldato
Considering the work that needs to go into get 30hp extra from my NA 4.2 V8 in the S4, I'd love this sort of gains. Powers of FI though!
Speaking of which, you just sold your RX8 and I'm eyeing up a 13B that needs a rebuild to build up and turbo. I need some FI and wob wob wob noise in my life.
Soldato
The RX8 with a RX7 engine is the place to be (assuming that what you mean by 13B?), but it'll take £10k to get there... hence why i didn't in the engine. And turbo'ing the standard RX8 engine 13BMSP engine for me, is just not worth it, it's just not built to take turbo's and superchargers imho and is more hassle than it's worth. Better just ditching the engine altogether but that's my view.