Soldato
I have been on the co2s for a while now but have a modified drink bottle that can carry spares if you dont like to stuff the jersey or attach elsewhere.
Happy to ride home at 50-60psi. 100psi does not sound fun.
it generally helped to start a tube with a pump and then co2 anyway
Anyone got any recommendations for bike fitting around Worcester way?
Also got some muc off chamois cream to try, merlin didn’t have assos but they do in store for some reason anyway the muc off stuff comes in a tub twice as big as normal so see if it’s any good!
Anyone got any recommendations for bike fitting around Worcester way?
So I reduced the pressure on the QR to very loose and it's fine. I guess possible I don't have he bearings seated properly in the freehub or wheel...Replaced bearings in a DT Swiss freehub (and the rear wheel itself)... freehub sticks when I stop pedalling (basically a fixie). Seems fine when out of the bike and barely any grease in there. I removed the grease and replaced with a very light coating of oil. Still no dice. Any other ideas?
I'm thinking maybe the bearings aren't quite in right place and the QR clamp stops them spinning well.
Not tried Assoss but agree it's good stuff. Shame they hiked prices to like £20 back last year. Used to be £13! Think it's a bit cheaper again now.It's excellent stuff. Way better than Assos IMO.
But even better than the muc off stuff is Veloskin. I am 100% nothing but Veloskin now. Their products are superb.
It's excellent stuff. Way better than Assos IMO.
But even better than the muc off stuff is Veloskin. I am 100% nothing but Veloskin now. Their products are superb.
It's excellent stuff. Way better than Assos IMO.
But even better than the muc off stuff is Veloskin. I am 100% nothing but Veloskin now. Their products are superb.
I do like the Muc Off stuff, but recently been using the Be Elite Wiggle stuff and it's been great, don't need much and a tenner lasts me a good couple of months which isn't bad for 8 uses a week! I'll have to try the Veloskin!
Think you've had all the correct advice already, but just to back it up - Do an FTP 'test' as it's nothing more than a measure of where you are right now, then use that figure on any training plan to improve. Fit in around what time/family commitments etc you have. But keep the enjoyment somehow, so you don't just get 'bored of being slow'. Improvements will come fast for a returning rider and the majority of plans build in a bunch of the base/endurance type workouts you really are thinking you need before pushing yourself.Putting the feelers out for what training aids you have for getting back to fitness (I am aware the weathers improving ). I have young family now so putting the leg over the steed and riding out for 4+ hours is not so simple these days. I also got on with other things since covid and now I need to recoup months of neglect (which is all my fault).
Lost a big reply I'd written and thought I'd posted. GRrrr, but good numbers and well done on getting them so stable/close/accurate so easily... But a Smart trainer alongside a PWM is quite a different story as they're the 2 'ends' of the whole chain (like I'm finding lol).ok power data geeks, here's one for you...
I decided to put my Assioma pedal PWM on my Tarmac, which has a Quarq DZero.
Strava on a smartphone uses the phones GPS, so it's that which is triggering and drifting, not Strava itself.Has anyone experienced a bug in Strava where despite standing still, it still thinks you're moving slightly and so the auto pause doesn't kick in?
Agreed. Mega! Although the pods look very Assioma don't they? Would be surprised if they where not Wahoo's own units due to all the manufacturoering and such they have. Although bit of a shame they seem to have dropped the 'Pave' version as would've thought that would be a massive marketing 'thing' to have a PWM pedal aimed at Gravel for an American company...https://www.dcrainmaker.com/2021/03...eWvjK6hj2f53gwWo_bnU5YD45EZp8ckS_J-Gk8SRPFnSk
Mega.
This is the path away from these useless Vector 3's and Look Keo cleats.
Just need to start saving now and/or sell one of the children. Be close to a grand I reckon.
https://bikefitsolutions.co.uk/Anyone got any recommendations for bike fitting around Worcester way?
Typical! Also explains why the pricing is as crazy as it is - retirement money!Haha, saw a mate the other day who said he'd got one recently. I asked him what groupset, "mechanical dura ace, I don't get on with electrics, and it's got a lovely threaded bottom bracket"
Bloody old timers with all their money.
/seconded.@Drollic it's not for me. But I disagree and think a bike fit is probably some of the best money you can spend irrelevant of your experience level.
Do it! But to be honest that just sounds like a corrupted/faulty MicroSD card so worth changing that first.I should probably just get a Wahoo...
I kinda wish someone made a more open bike computer. Would be nice if I could dev little addons/automations into it. Hammerhead's offering looks a little more open but quite expensive.
Better sealant needed! But I'm the same with TL really, although it's probably every 3-4 weeks at the moment. Pump them up to 60/50 and done. Maybe 65/55 if going out on a longer and faster 'summer jolly' type ride.Honestly, I pump my tyres maybe once every 2 weeks. Probably not the most efficient and means they're likely below 70 often (only pump to 80) but it really doesn't affect much. Tubeless annoyed me. Had to pump every few days.
First thought would be it missing a spacer somewhere when you reassembled (if it's not the bearings being incorrectly seated). Possibly between the bearings in the freehub (assuming cartridge), if there's one there it shouldn't be so tight between the bearings it can't 'wiggle', or one between the inner bearing on the bottom of the freehub and the axle/body (so the freehub is actually 'free'. Another to watch would be the outermost bearing being camped by the endcap so tightly against the outer race it can't turn, probably an indicator it isn't fully recessed in the hub.Replaced bearings in a DT Swiss freehub (and the rear wheel itself)... freehub sticks when I stop pedalling (basically a fixie). Seems fine when out of the bike and barely any grease in there. I removed the grease and replaced with a very light coating of oil. Still no dice. Any other ideas?
I'm thinking maybe the bearings aren't quite in right place and the QR clamp stops them spinning well.
I do like the Muc Off stuff, but recently been using the Be Elite Wiggle stuff and it's been great, don't need much and a tenner lasts me a good couple of months which isn't bad for 8 uses a week! I'll have to try the Veloskin!
8 times a week my backside wouldn’t stay on the saddle!
Tried it tonight and probably as good or better than the assos for less cash. Robbie Mcewen is the best stuff I’ve used but Australian market only I think.
My Tickr strap managed to expire today. New ones seem to be like rocking horse poo at the minute. Might have to upgrade to the Tickr2 which seems a bit of a waste. Can you use a third party strap and if so any recommendations as it’s the sort of thing that Amazon will be full of cheap **** copies.
The Hammerhead 2 is literally AndroidThe Stages looked like a good head unit and worth reading up DCR as seem to recall som mention about side loading stuff (but I could be wrong). Not really heard of much other than Garmin doing stuff with their Connect IQ or whatever it's called to host other apps on head units. Amazing/annoying nobody has made a head unit that runs Android really as that would be a great way to do it. Just think of all the tech going into smart watches.
All good shouts. I've got the collar in the freehub and it's not too tight it can't wiggle. There is a little axle collar on the DS that the freehub sits onto. I don't think there were any other spacers really but I'll have another fiddle tomorrow probably.First thought would be it missing a spacer somewhere when you reassembled (if it's not the bearings being incorrectly seated). Possibly between the bearings in the freehub (assuming cartridge), if there's one there it shouldn't be so tight between the bearings it can't 'wiggle', or one between the inner bearing on the bottom of the freehub and the axle/body (so the freehub is actually 'free'. Another to watch would be the outermost bearing being camped by the endcap so tightly against the outer race it can't turn, probably an indicator it isn't fully recessed in the hub.
All good shouts. I've got the collar in the freehub and it's not too tight it can't wiggle. There is a little axle collar on the DS that the freehub sits onto. I don't think there were any other spacers really but I'll have another fiddle tomorrow probably.
DT Swiss 3 Pawl from an R24 Spline clincher.What freehub is it? Pawls or ratchet drive? Or even onyx with the needle bearing cage?