Yeah, I've read about changing the pads etc but I'd rather not void my warranty since I'm just mining when I'm not gaming and I have zero issues in games or benchmarks, doesn't seem worth it in my case. Would a second exhaust (out the top) help much? My current setup is a Phanteks p400d with one of the stock fans as exhaust the other two on the front top and bottom with a noctua nf-s12a in-between them on the front.
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The Ampere RTX 3090 Owners Thread
- Thread starter Kaapstad
- Start date
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Soldato
If the memory chips are not contacting the backplate or where core sits on other side then case air wont help much. Once you sort out the heat transfer from the card components then the air flow will take over.
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I dont have my card yet but can you check the backplate without opening it all up?
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The 3090 and 3080fe cards use rubbish thermal pads period, the thermal paste itself is also brittle when you remove the cooler, they can all be improved using thermal grizzly paste for GPU core and thermal grizzly pads for memory and back plate. More heat transfer to cooler and back plate to dissipate the heat.
you can fit a heat sink to back plate with good thermal contact to remove even more heat from it. with a fan placed blowing over the back plate can also help achieve better temps.
All this is possible but at the cost of maybe voiding your warranty, from my point of view i have fitted a water block and replaced all the thermal pads with thermal grizzly ones, under water block and on the back plate. at the point of typing this my GPU sits at 20c water cooled, with fan on back plate.
I look at the longevity point of view, i feel keeping the card cooler will no doubt extend its life. I have no coil whine what so ever so for me i have taken a chance and voided my warranty. but under water cooling its a cracking card, and i now know i dont have to repaste for years.
For the owners of Fe cards its your choice your risk, I also repasted my gamerock 3090oc and replaced the thermal pads with thermal grizzly ones, it clocked higher and ran cooler. great card that but no water block yet and the only reason i parted with it.
you can fit a heat sink to back plate with good thermal contact to remove even more heat from it. with a fan placed blowing over the back plate can also help achieve better temps.
All this is possible but at the cost of maybe voiding your warranty, from my point of view i have fitted a water block and replaced all the thermal pads with thermal grizzly ones, under water block and on the back plate. at the point of typing this my GPU sits at 20c water cooled, with fan on back plate.
I look at the longevity point of view, i feel keeping the card cooler will no doubt extend its life. I have no coil whine what so ever so for me i have taken a chance and voided my warranty. but under water cooling its a cracking card, and i now know i dont have to repaste for years.
For the owners of Fe cards its your choice your risk, I also repasted my gamerock 3090oc and replaced the thermal pads with thermal grizzly ones, it clocked higher and ran cooler. great card that but no water block yet and the only reason i parted with it.
Personally if I really wanted maximum performance I'd rather hammer the temps to destruction and need an rma than void my warranty, if I didn't have a warranty I would do it though. Right now I'm happy with a slightly lower hashrate and trying to improve things without opening it up.
Soldato
Ah cool. I’ve got a 5600X so probably a wee bit less power draw too. I’m planning to under-volt the 3090.
Thermal Grizzly top quality pad is 0.5mm so best of luck with that (also does not get great reviews in real use not on paper).
I would use Liquid Metal on Core and Gelid Solutions GP Ultimate 2.0mm on Vram/VRM's if I decided to go as far as talking it apart as its a bit different from previous card and more risky.
I would use Liquid Metal on Core and Gelid Solutions GP Ultimate 2.0mm on Vram/VRM's if I decided to go as far as talking it apart as its a bit different from previous card and more risky.
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Soldato
Personally I think you would be in for a long wait for an rma replacement in this current setting?
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For those considering replacing thermal pads on 3090 FE, this video is probably the most comprehensive guide around.
Yeah you're probably right there, I've had the same monitor on order from five different retailers since January lol. But I'm not hammering it anyway. I'm happy taking the slight hit in mining, temps in game, which is what I bought it for, are no problem. The card could fail for other reasons and I like to have the peace of mind since it was a big chunk of change. Its all down to personal choice like vapour matt said up thread. If I'd bought a scalped card or I was a serious miner I'd do it in a second.
I would like to know for sure what the safe operating temperature is though, there doesn't seem to be a consensus online and until its confirmed I don't feel comfortable going above 94 degrees, others seem happy at 100, others hitting the thermal limit 24hrs a day so it's confusing.
Soldato
I first heard 110c (as thats when the safety throttling kicks in). I have dialled back myself since the hwinfo sensor showed how hot it was reaching and I was only @ 108MH/s (not like some claiming 120MH/s - that must be pushing it unless under water or already pads changed). I will see if I can dig out any more on it.
Soldato
anyone?
Caporegime
Soldato
Seasonic is my psu
^^ Pretty sure they were first to offer them, may even have been free but do not quote me on that.
I bought the Corsair one for my AX1600I but it has no in Line Caps unlike the original cables.
Ended : request-12pin-cable (seasonic.com)
I bought the Corsair one for my AX1600I but it has no in Line Caps unlike the original cables.
Ended : request-12pin-cable (seasonic.com)
Soldato
Yea I just checked and they don't do them anymore
Soldato
Apparently not, they are not a shop i heard and dont supply stuff?