Soldato
- Joined
- 23 Nov 2004
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- 10,646
Pretty much bearing,cylindrical spacer, freehub and then end cap for that style.
Road Cycling
- Thread starter FrenchTart
- Start date
Soldato
- Joined
- 23 Nov 2004
- Posts
- 10,646
You changed the hub bearings? The drive side ones usually/used to sit behind the ratchet ring in the hub shell.
I'd check they are seated properly for sure.
I'd check they are seated properly for sure.
Soldato
I don't think I'd seen this device before, it certainly does look interesting. Running Android and taking a SIM, I guess you can connect a headset in and listen to podcasts through it and even make phones calls? You could leave your phone at home?
The return policy seems fairly 'no strings attached too', so I'm very tempted to take a look too.
Soldato
Another nice long ride for me yesterday.
I've been struggling on the climbs though, just not got the legs yet this year
makes me wish I had a wider range on my cassette. I guess I just better get grinding more.
I've been struggling on the climbs though, just not got the legs yet this year
makes me wish I had a wider range on my cassette. I guess I just better get grinding more.Yes. I might have followed a youtube video which suggested you don't need to remove the teeth for the freehub. The bearing does just about go in with some light scoring judging by the bearing that came out. Not ideal but I asked a bike shop if they can do it and they said they don't have the tool either + it's £65.
Ah. I hadn't noticed it can take a SIM too. Not sure I see much value in that especially as it's likely to deplete battery life quite a bit. I'd hope it can piggyback phone's data connection via bluetooth.
Soldato
- Joined
- 23 Nov 2004
- Posts
- 10,646
I've never managed to get a bearing out without removing the ring so if you got it out it may be a newer wheel that doesn't need the ring removed. We have the tool for it to make life easier.
As i understood it there are wheels with a proper ring nut for the ratchet system? and then there are the type I have. I've been "repairing" these wheels for 2 years near enough... but all my other wheels are basically dead now so I want to use them 
I figured screw it (about 9 months ago) and just tried to get the bearing out after I got sent the wrong cheap chinese clone tool. It came out with very light marking from the teeth so I figured not much issue. Went in much easier.
The wheels were only something like £140 from Canyon ~3 years back so didn't feel right spending £60 on the real tool.
I figured screw it (about 9 months ago) and just tried to get the bearing out after I got sent the wrong cheap chinese clone tool. It came out with very light marking from the teeth so I figured not much issue. Went in much easier. The wheels were only something like £140 from Canyon ~3 years back so didn't feel right spending £60 on the real tool.
My strap is ancient and rotting through in places. Grim but still going strong!
Had a discussion on 3R about them a few months back and a few people are using these Amazon straps with TICKR's and they work fine. Choice of colours too!
It was probably me getting the Hammerhead confused with the Stages. Just recalled DCR talking about sideloading or something!The Hammerhead 2 is literally Android
Connect iQ is pretty closed really. Hard for any dev to just rock up and write something. Need access to the APIs from Garmin. You have to wonder though what the Hammerhead 2 really offers over a cheap waterproof phone? I'd imagine with a big battery and network off one could last a while. Not sure what app would be useful though. I'm real tempted to give the Hammerhead Karoo 2 a go but it's £360.. still there's a 45 day free trial apparently.
And yes, I'd imagine the Garmin boot issue will solve itself with the SD card changed (no issues with it out) ... but the general temperamental ride/route syncing issues will always be there I think.
Nice looking device, but again not one I've really come across to 'see' (and then therefore ask the user what it's like!).
But for that money I'd just buy a BOLT/ROAM and a Quadlock for my phone...
Love my Quadlock! Can get quite a deal looking for 'used' on the bay (for the mount) then buying a case new for the right phone. Loads of people buy them and then sell them when they change phones rather than keeping the mount. The cases on their own are not bad money as they're good cases, but the RRP on the case & mount is quite high. You know me when it comes to saving a few quid...
Looking at that diag the part '6' is a kinda spacer which sits 'through' the middle of the freehub mechanism, it fits into the first part of the freehub - to press against the inner race of the internal bearing there. That race then 'held' by that spacer to the hub shell - with the freehub itself spinning on the outer race of that same bearing. If either of those 2 bearings isn't in far enough (or too tight) then the freehub is binding to the shell and turning with it.
Hope that makes sense and you probably understand as well as I do how a freehub works, just trying to point you in the right direction. Also quite hard to describe accurately!
Packing thick grease into a freehub can do the same thing (which I know you're not doing), causing extra friction inside it, so the pawls/freehub binds to the hub shell.
Send the hub/freehub to @Jonny ///M ! Mates rates!
The tool is just required to unscrew the outer teeth from the hub shell isn't it? See lots of people making them for smart trainers and such with 3d printers...
I've seen videos of people putting the wheel in a vice with a massive long wooden post to unscrew it so not sure I'd trust a 3D printed piece!
Had a closer look and I think the DS hub bearing is a little too proud.
I guess that means freehub doesn't go in far enough and that causes the sticking. I don't have an extended socket to be able to press it past the axle so I guess I either a) get an extended socket b) remove the NDS again and push this one in further. Sounds like a weekend job. Will switch tyre back over to crappy Aksium for now!
I guess that means freehub doesn't go in far enough and that causes the sticking. I don't have an extended socket to be able to press it past the axle so I guess I either a) get an extended socket b) remove the NDS again and push this one in further. Sounds like a weekend job. Will switch tyre back over to crappy Aksium for now!
Nice 60k today in the glorious sunshine.
Find it quite hard to not sprint the whole way round, but managed to chill a bit more today (tapering into an erg test next week)
https://strava.app.link/tuVjqMeQKeb
So. Many. ******* On the roads today. Honestly I think the worst ride I've done for close overtakes/people pulling out on me.
One guy even pulled out on me at a big roundabout so I ended up on the inside of him. He wound down his window and shouted "cyclists have to give way in all directions on a roundabout you ****"
Resisted the urge to knock his wing mirror/have words as I went past him in the road work queue 100m down the road
Still, lovely day for it!
Find it quite hard to not sprint the whole way round, but managed to chill a bit more today (tapering into an erg test next week)
https://strava.app.link/tuVjqMeQKeb
So. Many. ******* On the roads today. Honestly I think the worst ride I've done for close overtakes/people pulling out on me.
One guy even pulled out on me at a big roundabout so I ended up on the inside of him. He wound down his window and shouted "cyclists have to give way in all directions on a roundabout you ****"
Resisted the urge to knock his wing mirror/have words as I went past him in the road work queue 100m down the road
Still, lovely day for it!
Haha, valid point. Might explain why people are making a killing machining them for those with smart turbo trainers to change bearings. They're the same price as you found - but only as you can't get them, or they're triple the price to get genuine!
Did spot this one - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DT-Three...V_IlwyG9-Gi6sToIPIQwkuK5-xvzYPr8aAuTrEALw_wcB
So worth doing some looking around - that was just a link from a forum to a google shopping search on 'DT Swiss 3 pawl ratchet nut removal'
Yeah weekend job. How did you get it in there anyway, drift? Use whatever you used to get it in, but without the ratchet removal I guess you drifted from the other side (so need to move back the way it came)?Had a closer look and I think the DS hub bearing is a little too proud.
I guess that means freehub doesn't go in far enough and that causes the sticking. I don't have an extended socket to be able to press it past the axle so I guess I either a) get an extended socket b) remove the NDS again and push this one in further. Sounds like a weekend job. Will switch tyre back over to crappy Aksium for now!
Could just have a rummage and see if you can find a washer big enough to sit over the outer race, then tap around the outside with a punch to move it inwards a tiny amount. But having multiple extended sockets is the way forwards. Got a bunch of them in my Halfords Professional kit and they've done more drift/spacer work than anything else...
I'd have tapped on his door on the way past and screamed at him to give way if he's stoppingOne guy even pulled out on me at a big roundabout so I ended up on the inside of him. He wound down his window and shouted "cyclists have to give way in all directions on a roundabout you ****"
Resisted the urge to knock his wing mirror/have words as I went past him in the road work queue 100m down the road
Soldato
Lol, do these people make up rules if they dont remember any or is it some distortion of a technicality being Chinese whispered?
Soldato
Yes, it will connect through your phone if you prefer, I don't think this will be that different to it having it's own cell connection tbh. The always on screen will be a far bigger factor on battery life.
Pretty sure I used a BB press and the old bearing. This was before the axle goes in (and then the NDS bearing). NDS bearing I think I used a socket and a good old hammer
It was drifted in from the side pictured. I don't think you can go in from the other side as I think there might have been a seat/lip for it. If it's all lined up fine it just about goes in. As I say though the bearing that came out had some very light scoring on the outer race from the ring nut teeth.I keep meaning to get one of those Halfords Professional kits... Next time they have an offer on maybe.
Guessing that was in the Frimley area... had a few incidents that way.One guy even pulled out on me at a big roundabout so I ended up on the inside of him. He wound down his window and shouted "cyclists have to give way in all directions on a roundabout you ****"
Resisted the urge to knock his wing mirror/have words as I went past him in the road work queue 100m down the road
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I had one last week. Road works on his side of road. Priority sign giving us priority (bit unnecessary as we have right of way anyway). Driver sees us and just drives at us. We ride at him (not amazing decision admittedly). He stops and looks like he's gonna get out his granny mobile but guess he decides nah 2vs1. We said can't you read the sign? He then claimed there was no sign for him. I said doesn't matter if there's a sign or not we have priority... Turned out there was actually no sign for him but still no priority for him and even if he had priority you don't drive at someone already there...
Soldato
- Joined
- 23 Nov 2004
- Posts
- 10,646
Have fun with that. Can't beat having correct tools for the job. Park tool bearing press and an eBay slide hammer kit are my most used tools I'd say.
Well other than allen keys etc. Internal routing kit is top 3.
Well other than allen keys etc. Internal routing kit is top 3.
Yeah I'm sure but £60 odd on the ring nut removal tool... I might as well get new wheels.
Slide hammer kit? Is that for pulling internal bearings? I had considered one but wasn't too sure what I'm looking at.
Internal routing does not sound fun. Fortunately only my rear brake cable is internally routed and it's an outer cable all the way through the top tube.
Soldato
I'm using this one with a TickR sensor pod:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06WLMMG7S/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_D3NJFGWYQ4J97WYY0M1Z
No problems with it. When I got it, I had it paired to Sufferfest and a Scooshe optical HR paired to my Garmin. Anytime I looked between them, they were either the same or +/- 1 BPM.