Road Cycling
- Thread starter FrenchTart
- Start date
Weather is really sucky at the moment. Seriously considering getting the turbo back out. Managed to nip out this morning after a full day inside yesterday but roads were pretty wet. Raining again now and potentially for rest of week! I thought winter was wet enough.
Soldato
Thanks @SoliD - my old Shimano boots are unlined but can fit a liner sock + Brasher waterproof sock in them for warmth during winter. Not found the Shimano (RW5?) in stock anywhere but Sigma do have the Fizik R5 in 46 (11.25) for £140 so that's another option. When I went out yesterday morning at 6.30am it was about 6 or 7 degrees and topped out about 13 degrees, so ultimate warmth isn't a major requirement.
This is probably more Training related than anything else, but quite interested to see who knows about and has used HRV?
Just recently getting into it as more of a recovery 'aid' than anything else. I've always struggled to 'ride enough to progress' (other than slowly), so the thinking is to take steps to improve my recovery, so I'm able to ride stronger without really increasing the training load. I know I probably eat too much and don't sleep enough, but I thought using a 'sleep tracker' I'd then have a bit of an incentive to increase my sleep and see the 'gains' from it. I'd originally thought to go the 'Whoop' route but after reading DCR's review that pretty much condemned that as a valid and valuable tool. Just seems crazy money to buy something and tie into something so inflexible and inaccurate.
So ended up (after some recommendations) to start with just HRV and see how I find it and how much I can learn. Seeing how it maps to my general 'feeling' and alongside the Strava 'Fitness & Freshness thing. I know I could learn more from TrainingPeaks, but I'm looking for more around the bits 'outside' of my riding activities. The app I'm using is 'Elite HRV', works well with my TICKR and is 'free' but just paid for the Strava integration so it pulls my activity data into it... (although that doesn't seem to have done anything so anyone else who starts with it, don't bother!
)
Complete write off here for the second Saturday morning in a row so ended up on Zwift sunday afternoon. Sweeping the 100km 3R Endurance ride which is quite a regular occurrence for me, but this one turned into quite a sufferfest... Some early gaps and a big peloton made things quite tough from the first 10/15km. Closing 30-40s gaps on Zwift with the current algorithm is brutal! Even with the group reduced down to 2.0w/kg (from 2.5) the 2-3 man sweep team needed to call additional help back several times. I had superb legs but it was taking 3.2-3.5 just to keep pace solo, so the pulls for dropped riders where generally 4w/kg threshold rotations between 4-5 riders to close anything. I topped out 200 TSS for the 2.5 hours of riding! Legs really died quickly at the end putting some group pulls in as my dinner was on the table...!
In other news I currently LOVE the colour scheme of the JV Cervelo S5, I mean just LOOK AT IT! https://www.strava.com/activities/5308655491
To be fair the 35-40nM most cassette lockrings are rated to seems overly tight to me, I've never torqued them up that far as my cassette tool won't fit my torque wrench. But as a rough judge the 'man tight' I've been doing them a similar tightness is around 20-30nM on other things I have used the torque on... I've also never had one come loose!
Wolftooth do a RD hanger mount/step thing which enables MTB low range cassette for road derailleurs, unsure if fitting one of those on a SS 5800 would make it fit a 34t... I bet someone has tried it so do some forum googling.
For the type of riding you've generally said you do - Triathlon. As you've not mentioned hilly or distance then any current aero road bike is going to be 'fast' for you. Maybe some of the more comfort orientated ones rather than pure aero stiff race machines - like the Madone or TCR. The position you're able to achieve and therefore the comfort level, is probably the most important factor. Hard to get that with little details or outside of a Bike Fit.
I find them quite warm and not comfortable enough for long rides so - really only a winter shoe for the absolute bitter cold commutes. If there's ice on the ground and a nasty windchill then they come out. Anything else I'm in shoes and overshoes with winter socks.
As you'll have found with the MW101 (and any other of these 'winter boots') as they have generally a velcro closed neoprene upper, they will soak through and let water through into the shoe. In my reading up and experience they're all as 'bad' as each other. No one shoe I found had any kind of coating on top of this neoprene to keep water off the surface (which to me would be an easy 'solution'. So for real wet weather riding you'll get wet feet regardless of which you choose (feel free to correct me here)... I got the Sidi Hydro H20 about 90% waterproof using standard neoprene overshoes. I toyed with more waterproof leg warmers (Castelli Tempesta) and then some kind of hiking 'gaitor' to go over the cuff/join but then went the more expensive waterproof expensive overshoe route (Spatz) which I wear over standard shoes and have better waterproofing than I ever did with the boots. That's why my boots only really get worn a handful of commutes per year for the really cold weather - for me and the type of riding I do I wear the Spatz far more (and actually have 2 different pairs).
Just recently getting into it as more of a recovery 'aid' than anything else. I've always struggled to 'ride enough to progress' (other than slowly), so the thinking is to take steps to improve my recovery, so I'm able to ride stronger without really increasing the training load. I know I probably eat too much and don't sleep enough, but I thought using a 'sleep tracker' I'd then have a bit of an incentive to increase my sleep and see the 'gains' from it. I'd originally thought to go the 'Whoop' route but after reading DCR's review that pretty much condemned that as a valid and valuable tool. Just seems crazy money to buy something and tie into something so inflexible and inaccurate.
So ended up (after some recommendations) to start with just HRV and see how I find it and how much I can learn. Seeing how it maps to my general 'feeling' and alongside the Strava 'Fitness & Freshness thing. I know I could learn more from TrainingPeaks, but I'm looking for more around the bits 'outside' of my riding activities. The app I'm using is 'Elite HRV', works well with my TICKR and is 'free' but just paid for the Strava integration so it pulls my activity data into it... (although that doesn't seem to have done anything so anyone else who starts with it, don't bother!
)Complete write off here for the second Saturday morning in a row so ended up on Zwift sunday afternoon. Sweeping the 100km 3R Endurance ride which is quite a regular occurrence for me, but this one turned into quite a sufferfest... Some early gaps and a big peloton made things quite tough from the first 10/15km. Closing 30-40s gaps on Zwift with the current algorithm is brutal! Even with the group reduced down to 2.0w/kg (from 2.5) the 2-3 man sweep team needed to call additional help back several times. I had superb legs but it was taking 3.2-3.5 just to keep pace solo, so the pulls for dropped riders where generally 4w/kg threshold rotations between 4-5 riders to close anything. I topped out 200 TSS for the 2.5 hours of riding! Legs really died quickly at the end putting some group pulls in as my dinner was on the table...!
In other news I currently LOVE the colour scheme of the JV Cervelo S5, I mean just LOOK AT IT! https://www.strava.com/activities/5308655491
Ouch! Be careful with the threads!Edit: Side note, old cassette was on ****ing tight, ended up using a battery powered impact driver to get it off. Much easier
To be fair the 35-40nM most cassette lockrings are rated to seems overly tight to me, I've never torqued them up that far as my cassette tool won't fit my torque wrench. But as a rough judge the 'man tight' I've been doing them a similar tightness is around 20-30nM on other things I have used the torque on... I've also never had one come loose!
Think Jonny has you pretty much covered. It's only the latest generation of Shimano which natively accept 34t (vs 32t), but you could probably index them to fit on a 5800 Long derailleur. May not be perfect. Also worth noting 'Long' is now 'Medium' or GS. Short is still short or SS.
Wolftooth do a RD hanger mount/step thing which enables MTB low range cassette for road derailleurs, unsure if fitting one of those on a SS 5800 would make it fit a 34t... I bet someone has tried it so do some forum googling.
That's the problem, although bizarre it's happening when it's sat idle in your hallway and not when you're riding it when the pressures are higher!
Hard to advise as you've basically given no details other than 'spec me a road bike that isn't Bianchi, Specialized or Pinarello'
For the type of riding you've generally said you do - Triathlon. As you've not mentioned hilly or distance then any current aero road bike is going to be 'fast' for you. Maybe some of the more comfort orientated ones rather than pure aero stiff race machines - like the Madone or TCR. The position you're able to achieve and therefore the comfort level, is probably the most important factor. Hard to get that with little details or outside of a Bike Fit.
Previously owned Celsius, barely wore them as found them uncomfortable (tongue overlap on the outside of the top causing a pressure point), so barely wore them. I switched them to Sidi Hydro H20 as I'd changed to 3 bolt at that point and although better they where not great. Felt too much like a heavy boot and I'd sized up (as per sizing recommendations) so had quite a bit of movement in them. Changed those and I'm back on Northwave 'Fahrenheit' GTX in my 'true' shoe size.
I find them quite warm and not comfortable enough for long rides so - really only a winter shoe for the absolute bitter cold commutes. If there's ice on the ground and a nasty windchill then they come out. Anything else I'm in shoes and overshoes with winter socks.
As you'll have found with the MW101 (and any other of these 'winter boots') as they have generally a velcro closed neoprene upper, they will soak through and let water through into the shoe. In my reading up and experience they're all as 'bad' as each other. No one shoe I found had any kind of coating on top of this neoprene to keep water off the surface (which to me would be an easy 'solution'. So for real wet weather riding you'll get wet feet regardless of which you choose (feel free to correct me here)... I got the Sidi Hydro H20 about 90% waterproof using standard neoprene overshoes. I toyed with more waterproof leg warmers (Castelli Tempesta) and then some kind of hiking 'gaitor' to go over the cuff/join but then went the more expensive waterproof expensive overshoe route (Spatz) which I wear over standard shoes and have better waterproofing than I ever did with the boots. That's why my boots only really get worn a handful of commutes per year for the really cold weather - for me and the type of riding I do I wear the Spatz far more (and actually have 2 different pairs).
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Soldato
Cheers, I've just installed and done my first HRV test. I'm not sure I need this but I'm interested in the data hah.
Works well using the Garmin HRM Run over Ant+
Soldato
Cheers Roady. Agree on the neoprene wraps being the weak spot. Yesterday's ride had a number of flooded sections and I had dry feet through them with the previously mentioned Brasher Extreme waterproof socks (inside the Shimano boots). It was only some really heavy rain and hail later on that results in wet feet though. What I'm not sure about the Spatz for "summer" use is how far up the leg they come. Yesterday I was warm enough in normal bibs and my boot/sock combo - I imagine the Spatz might get too warm, not to mention look odd (though I probably look odd in the first place!).
I just looked back at the all-day ride I did last year. It rained for most of that, and IIRC, I went with my boots / socks for that. Strava says the temp was 15 deg C, so mild but damp. I don't have memories of wet feet that day - lack of venting in the boots probably helps keeps the spray out.
I do have a pair of Endura overshoes in the garage which I haven't used yet - have to try them on with my road shoes.
Normal overshoes won't keep you dry. If they're neoprene you might stay warm at least.
I wore Velotoze for last 2 rides. Ripped this morning so in the bin they go. Probably lasted 5 rides in total. Bought them for a particular wet bikepacking trip and introduced a small hole on the first time I used them. They do work and give comfort during a ride but feet can't breathe so shoes get soaked from sweat.
I wore Velotoze for last 2 rides. Ripped this morning so in the bin they go. Probably lasted 5 rides in total. Bought them for a particular wet bikepacking trip and introduced a small hole on the first time I used them. They do work and give comfort during a ride but feet can't breathe so shoes get soaked from sweat.
Soldato
@AndyCr15
If your tape is installed correctly without movement and the tyre is clean inside, those kind of flats are normally from when you've caught the tube on install with the tyre being seated. That can be for a variety of reasons. It's nasty if your nearby it at 90+psi.
If your tape is installed correctly without movement and the tyre is clean inside, those kind of flats are normally from when you've caught the tube on install with the tyre being seated. That can be for a variety of reasons. It's nasty if your nearby it at 90+psi.
Soldato
They are fragile but there’s nothing better IMO for milder, wet days. I usually patch small tears with an old bit of inner tube and some rubber cement.
Soldato
Yes absolutely, literally just ensured I could do it by hand then backed it off with a spanner. Reinstalled with a little grease and torqued by hand. No torque wrench, so did it "tight" by hand, checked again after a ride and all good.
Seem to have started wearing through my dhb bib shorts - after about 3500 miles I'd say (no idea if this is normal!)
So looking to get another pair, probably a bit more premium so they last longer and are a bit comfier.
Any recommendations? Seen Endura/Le Col/Castelli recommended before, but after some real world advice
So looking to get another pair, probably a bit more premium so they last longer and are a bit comfier.
Any recommendations? Seen Endura/Le Col/Castelli recommended before, but after some real world advice
I am looking at some Endura's for this season and remembered reading you preferred the FS260s. Is there any specific reason for this i.e. is the pad more comfortable?
Hellarda; if your budget is around £100 try Rapha Core, Assos Mille, Lusso Carbon (made in UK). If you fancy spending less than that, I highly recommend Galibier who makes fantastic bang for buck gear.
Yes. I don't know why but possibly because it's a little bigger and more flexible. I think the Pro SL is available in various sizes so possibly I just have the wrong pad size though I think I did "match" it to my saddle.
They have a 90 day no quibble guarantee on the Pro SL so it could be worth a try really. I still wear them occasionally but the FS260 are my go-to for longer rides.
Castelli free aero race OG's - 6 seasons old. Pad still fine. Still use them on the trainer.
Free Aero Race 2.0's - 4 seasons old. Pad still fine. Still use them on the trainer.
Free Aero Race 4.0's - Perfect bibs. Got them for £105 which for top end is cheap (it's around what I paid for all my Castelli bibs actually, just keep your eyes peeled).
Got another pair of aero race 4.0's on the way from Castelli. My team is now on Castelli so looking forward to my team kit version of them. Only difference will be I finally have some XS sized Castelli bibs. I've never been able to buy them in all these years, could only ever get small. So I hope they work out as well as all my previous versions of their bibs.
I also have the Castelli Sorpasso bib tights. They have the same Progetto X2 pad as the aero race bibs so I am totally happy with them also.
Free Aero Race 2.0's - 4 seasons old. Pad still fine. Still use them on the trainer.
Free Aero Race 4.0's - Perfect bibs. Got them for £105 which for top end is cheap (it's around what I paid for all my Castelli bibs actually, just keep your eyes peeled).
Got another pair of aero race 4.0's on the way from Castelli. My team is now on Castelli so looking forward to my team kit version of them. Only difference will be I finally have some XS sized Castelli bibs. I've never been able to buy them in all these years, could only ever get small. So I hope they work out as well as all my previous versions of their bibs.
I also have the Castelli Sorpasso bib tights. They have the same Progetto X2 pad as the aero race bibs so I am totally happy with them also.
Soldato
Big fan of the current Endura Pro SL here (long leg length, medium pad, medium size) - have two pairs and keep an eye out for them to be back under £100. The leg "grippers" are perfect for me as they don't move at all (I did 200km on Sunday and didn't need to adjust them once). Rutland have them for £106 in standard length at the moment:
https://www.rutlandcycling.com/clothing/legwear/endura-pro-sl-bibshort-black__481766
https://www.rutlandcycling.com/clothing/legwear/endura-pro-sl-bibshort-black__481766