"Groupsets probably done no more than 500 miles. In the past year. The reason for the parts not all matching is because there were so few parts around when i built the bike - i had to fit what i could get" - this semi checks out becuase of Covid and availability. worst case I can always upgrade them in the future?
He also mentioned:
"The only second hand part on the bike is the drive side chainset as you can see from the foot rub. Every other part was from a shop".
It does look quite clean, and the fact that things like they Jockey Wheels are HOPE and not stock etc. makes me think he has cared for this bike and built it up with love.
I will check the frame over well for signs of a crash but couldn't see anything obvious from the posted pictures.
Glad to hear your friend is happy & sorted!
It does make sense due to the shortage of parts around and him saying it was built up, a quick scan around does hint the CAAD13 frameset was readily available at just below £1000. So really sounds an ok build for that - nothing stopping you changing parts although if it's working fine with the older shifters I'd say stick with them - it will be at least a year (possibly 2) until groupset prices and components drop (and that's considering that supply issues and low inventory don't continue to push it further).
Although I would question why someone would change jockey wheels on a new RD, bling factor yes but generally you'd ride and wear them a decent amount first on a build before you switched them out for any other reason. They're not really a performance upgrade.
EDIT: I should've refreshed this morning! Ooops! Bike looks great, very smart and clean! Sure you'll be happy with it as will be a worlds apart ride from your older lower range Allez. Enjoy!
You guys need to get out more... Although actually... *drool*
I do recall a front hub somewhere having kinda white star patterns or was it holograms on it in sequence so when you rode it looked really cool, but can't think where I saw that now!?
Forgot to post my spot the difference. Changed cassette. You can just about see some of the teeth are narrower than the new cog. 16T seemed to have worn the most. Not super interesting but thought I'd check while I could
Yup. Can't tell the difference. Barely any! Although reinforces how I can't tell a cassette is worn unless it skips!
Maybe we need to start dating them on the back with a marker or something and then just replace them every 3 years. Think that's the only way as once they've done a UK winter they all look the same regardless of age!
Isn't always obvious on cassettes, usually the burrs on the teeth are the clue rather than overall shape of the teeth.
Finally got 120mm stem on the bike and a prologo zero saddle. Feeling proper banging now, corners like ****.
Also put my saddle up at least 1cm and adjusted cleats to have the mark on the cleat under the ball of my foot. Meant I actually took some turns tonight, 20 mins at 190bpm and 180bpm for the full thing. Hit 200bpm a few too many times .
Got new club kit too but the sizing of the long sleeve top is silly. Both of these are large the elastic on the rear sits below my arse cheeks...
Bike is looking superb mate, although that clearance with the rear tyre to the frame looks TIGHT! Nothing to worry about, or really don't care with the short term you keep bikes? See a bunch of these around now and everyone seems to love them...!
Kit sizing is a joke, do Bioracer have different sizing charts for the SS and LS? A summer sizing and a winter or a race and casual? If they're on the same size chart that is an utter joke!
Yeah but ive always found cycling kit really hard to size right, seems to be total luck of the draw regardless of your size.
Brand to brand and even series to series within that brand can be quite different.
Example: I'm a Medium in Rapha Core shorts, a Small in Brevet and somewhere between the two in their Pro kit. Although I can get away with wearing a Large in Core (just not that comfortable for long days) I prefer a tighter short and can even squeeze into a Small.
Castelli, I find more restrictive, so although I can wear a Medium in their cheaper (more stretchy) I'm generally a Large in their higher end stuff. Same with Sportful, although find the Large in theirs a better fit on me as their pads fit me better (touch wider and thicker), the medium stretches a bit too much and the pad doesn't sit well. Their Fiandre shorts (being thicker fleece backed) I can get away with an XL, but barely squeeze into a Medium. Castelli winter shorts 'Omloop' I can't even fit in a Large.
Cycling sizing is generally called 'Italian' for a race fit and doing some google searches on brands sizings will usually get people on forums saying 'how italian' they are. Less 'european' sizings (like Pearl Izumi, DHB, Altura etc) are generally far more forgiving. I'm a small in DHB and even then there's 'too much' material around the body for me, but also not enough stretch in the legs to go down to an XS.
Jerseys I'm almost exclusively a Medium across all the brands. I prefer a tighter fit, but the more relaxed fitting brands (DHB/Craft) are ones I'd generally wear commuting anyway.
This is for me being a 32/32 in Superdry/Timberland/etc jeans, generally wearing them with a belt as could go less on the waist, but with my quads needing the sizing of a 32 to actually get them on! No chance of me wearing a skinny jean... Unless stretchy and then I 'test' the seams too much and they're really not comfortable! (only ones I've come close with are 'Flex' named, Superdry do some 'PremiumFlex which are nice - boot cut at the bottom but quite fitted and the flex fits my quads)
I’m looking at getting an indoor trainer for the winter months any recommendations?
What's your budget and intended use?
Can't go wrong with DCR's recommended guide but there are a couple of nuisances depending on platform and type of training which might help push you to certain models (like the H2 for interval work).
Depends what kind of indoor training you want to do?
I guess first question is smart or non smart enabled?
There's really no reason now to be looking at non-smart and I'd even argue these days that going non-direct drive isn't ideal. Only reason would be budget or certain fringe use cases (race warmups, no power in area), but when you're strapping a £8000 bike to a £300 trainer to save a few quid from buying a £600 one, it's really not an argument.
We've an Indoor riding thread for all of this really anyway.
