How to cut a 4x4 straight?

[jsmoke]

I find when cutting wood there's often a slight angle when using a hand saw which can effectively ruin a piece of wood.

Is there any tips to cutting a 4x4(90mmx90mm) with a hand saw. If you had a miter box big enough you could use that but from what I can see they have a height of around 10''.

 

[Haze]

loads of vids here...

https://www.google.com/search?q=how...i57j0i390l2.8505j0j1&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

[paintguy]

Transferring your pencil lines down the sides of the timber with a square can help, but when sawing, look for the reflection of the edge of the timber in the blade. If it is straight and true, lining up with the timber edge on the waste side of the cut, you know you're pretty plumb.

 

[niko]

either learn better technique or buy a chop saw/mitre saw, these start at around £50

 

[Armageus]

either learn better technique or buy a chop saw/mitre saw, these start at around £50

A £50 chop saw won't do 90mm X 90mm

You'd need at least something like
https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-...double-bevel-sliding-mitre-saw-220-240v/244fv

 

[itsallaboutyou]

Me ol' dad - a cabinet maker - taught me, as a kid to use a combination square / rafter square / whatever and transfer the line along all 4 sides of the timber - scored with a stanley knife. Cut along all 4 sides to get started and it soon becomes easier.

Other method is to use a back saw or a tenon saw which has a solid rib on the top to get started... although sometimes you won't be able to get all the way through as the rib is thicker than the blade kerf... depending on the depth..

But as above.. practice, practice, practice! A decent quality saw as well... look for TPI - more TPI, ultimately the finer the cut!

 

[jsmoke]

Me ol' dad - a cabinet maker - taught me, as a kid to use a combination square / rafter square / whatever and transfer the line along all 4 sides of the timber - scored with a stanley knife. Cut along all 4 sides to get started and it soon becomes easier.

Other method is to use a back saw or a tenon saw which has a solid rib on the top to get started... although sometimes you won't be able to get all the way through as the rib is thicker than the blade kerf... depending on the depth..

But as above.. practice, practice, practice! A decent quality saw as well... look for TPI - more TPI, ultimately the finer the cut!

Or just get it cut at a sawmill for free, cheaper prices also.

 

[jsmoke]

When your drilling pilot holes for the screws I believe your meant to use a drill bit that's slightly smaller in width than the screw. So say the screw is 6mm in width how do you find a drill bit that's about 5.9mm in width?

Also how far down do you drill the pilot hole, if the screw is 150mm in length do you drill a 150mm pilot hole?

 

[bremen1874]

There still needs to be enough material for the screw to cut into. For a 6mm screw you’d want something like a 3.5-4mm pilot hole.

To some extent it’ll depend on what you’re screwing into. Hardwood != softwood.

 

[alexakasloth]

When your drilling pilot holes for the screws I believe your meant to use a drill bit that's slightly smaller in width than the screw. So say the screw is 6mm in width how do you find a drill bit that's about 5.9mm in width?

Also how far down do you drill the pilot hole, if the screw is 150mm in length do you drill a 150mm pilot hole?

A drill bit the size of the body of the screw or slightly smaller is what I use, with a drill bit of the same size for the clearance hole.

@itsallaboutyou - exactly what I do for a straight cut, cut in a set of guides each side for the path of least resistance.

 

[jsmoke]

There still needs to be enough material for the screw to cut into. For a 6mm screw you’d want something like a 3.5-4mm pilot hole.

To some extent it’ll depend on what you’re screwing into. Hardwood != softwood.

Hardwood, fence post material.

A drill bit the size of the body of the screw or slightly smaller is what I use, with a drill bit of the same size for the clearance hole.

@itsallaboutyou - exactly what I do for a straight cut, cut in a set of guides each side for the path of least resistance.

So why does bremen say to use a drill bit half the width of the screw?

 

[alexakasloth]

So why does bremen say to use a drill bit half the width of the screw?

Same thing different wording.

(Edit) read through again. By body of the screw I am referring to the shank, not including the threads. It's an easy way to eye-ball what drill bit you require.

If it's actual hardwood (i.e. oak) and you are screwing two pieces together then you will likely need a clearance hole drilled into the piece you are screwing through. Then a pilot hole on the wood you are screwing into.

 

[jsmoke]

Same thing different wording.

(Edit) read through again. By body of the screw I am referring to the shank, not including the threads. It's an easy way to eye-ball what drill bit you require.

If it's actual hardwood (i.e. oak) and you are screwing two pieces together then you will likely need a clearance hole drilled into the piece you are screwing through. Then a pilot hole on the wood you are screwing into.

The screws I'm using are 150mm x 5mm what drill bit should I use to cut the pilot hole?

 

[itsallaboutyou]

Or just get it cut at a sawmill for free, cheaper prices also.

Aye - but where's the satisfaction? Easier - deffo. But tbh - if you can't cut a piece of timber straight by hand - then a mitre saw / track saw / whatever will be best. Horses for courses.

 

[builder22]

you can hold a known square sheet/block of wood against the saw...then you just need to worry about following the line

 

[WoZZeR]

I draw lines on the sides and clamp offcuts of wood on opposite sides making sure they are square and then cut keeping the saw against the 2 offcuts. Have used this method to nip a few inches off fence posts cutting horizontally. Oh and don't rush, slowly and steadily.

 

[Semple]

The screws I'm using are 150mm x 5mm what drill bit should I use to cut the pilot hole?

Just eyeball the shank of the screw to get a rough size. It's really not rocket science. If you're struggling to drill an adequately sized pilot hole then you probably shouldn't even be doing DIY.

The pilot hole should be just wide enough to screw into, if it's too wide then it won't provide enough grip for the screw, and if it's too thin, it'll make life harder when screwing in.

 

[bainbridge]

When gripping the saw, don't grip with your index finger, but instead have your index finger running along the side of the saw, so your hand looks like you're pointing at something. A chippie taught me this years ago and instantly I began sawing straighter, and I still do it now.

 

[Mr.Cookie]

When gripping the saw, don't grip with your index finger, but instead have your index finger running along the side of the saw, so your hand looks like you're pointing at something. A chippie taught me this years ago and instantly I began sawing straighter, and I still do it now.

Me too, also have a candle to hand to rub the saw blade with.