Removing a broken exhaust manifold bolt?

Soldato
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Lots of WD40, lock two nuts together on the remaining stud and then undo it with the bottom nut of the two.

Hope this makes sense :D

Fog

i wouldnt drill it unless I absolutely had to, starts to get messy if you run into problems. Depends on how much room you have to play with.
 
Soldato
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Lots of WD40, lock two nuts together on the remaining stud and then undo it with the bottom nut of the two.

Actually that made no sense to me at all lol

Explain that again please mate :)

To elaborate further the sheared nut is recessed in the hole so there is nothing to grasp onto...
 
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With the manifold removed is there any stud at all coming out of the head? if so a stud extractor (or the two nuts cheaper method) might do it, after using heat and a decent penetrating oil of course. Trouble is if you take the manifold off, you may end up with even more snapped studs.
 
Caporegime
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Will taking the manifold off expose more of the bolt?

These are nightmare bolts to get out as the reason it sheared was probably due to it corroding in. It won't come out without a fight :(
 
Soldato
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Stonedofmoo said:
Actually that made no sense to me at all lol

Explain that again please mate :)

To elaborate further the sheared nut is recessed in the hole so there is nothing to grasp onto...


Aaah, that shot my idea down then :o

It sounded from your post that you had a long bolt sticking out minus the head.

Like Simon said, I think the best way is to take off the mainfold. But it probaly wont be fun.

Fog
 
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is it actually blowing ,if its not just leave it alone as it could turn into a very expensive job
if you need to do it, spray all nuts and bolts for a couple a days with a good penetrating oil
remove the manifold and remove stud with stud extractors
dave
 
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Soldato
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nuke.jpg


It's the only way to be sure :(


The best way I know of is to drill and re-tap, assuming you have all the right tools :)
 
Caporegime
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dalex said:
is it actually blowing ,if its not just leave it alone as it could turn into a very expensive job
if you need to do it, spray all nuts and bolts for a couple a days with a good penetrating oil
dave

I agree, if its not blowing leave it
 
Soldato
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Dogbreath said:
If there is any bolt protuding after you remove the manifold welding a nut onto the end nearly always works.

Thats what I always do and its never failed yet. Not only does it give you a new hexagonal head to use but the heat produced from welding it breaks any corrosion bond or threadlock adhesives that might have been used on it.

Those 'easy-out' things are complete rubbish. If the bolts so tight that the head snaps off, they won't ever get it out.
 
Soldato
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Sputnik II said:
Those 'easy-out' things are complete rubbish. If the bolts so tight that the head snaps off, they won't ever get it out.

Agreed, stud extractors are utter cr@p for jobs like this (actually, for most jobs :p ), we had a snap on set at work, we got a refund on them in the end they broke that often. Forgot about welding a nut on, sometimes just heating/welding on the end of a stud can be enough to unstick it :D (if you're lucky)

Fog
 

Gav

Gav

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Foghorn Leghorn said:
Agreed, stud extractors are utter cr@p for jobs like this (actually, for most jobs :p ), we had a snap on set at work, we got a refund on them in the end they broke that often. Forgot about welding a nut on, sometimes just heating/welding on the end of a stud can be enough to unstick it :D (if you're lucky)

Fog


You couldnt have been using them right. I have removed hundreds of broken studs/bolts with them and i have never snapped or broken a single one.
 
Soldato
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Wasn't actually me that kept snapping them, twas my service guys, so possibly. Always found locking two nuts together or welding a nut on worked everytime though Unless its sheered off with no stud protruding, then its out with the drill but thats rare.

Fog
 
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