I've a 14" Stihl and I'm not that impresses. I'm intrigued by thees Jonsered jobbies. When this bites the dust I might have to check those out.
Good chainsaws?
- Thread starter squiffy
- Start date
Not directly my experience, but my father ran a forestry/ tree surgery business for over 12 yrs. Basically, don't touch things like McCulloch, or for that matter anything you find in B&Q.
Jonsred & STIHL are the cheaper end of the good quality chainsaws, nothing wrong with them, but still nowhere as good as Husqvarna, which are the really good quality saws in the larger sizes. (This was the full-size forrestry saws, & stuff like planking attachments etc.)
This sort of thing:
http://www.husqvarna.co.uk/node2158.asp?pid=29&cid=51
http://www.abbeygardensales.co.uk/s...usqvarna-3120xp-chainsaw/showitemHSQ3120.aspx
To the guy that posted Jonsred as the top end of saws, I do admit I'm referring to forestry grade stuff, not consumer/ lighter tree surgery which is a whole different kettle of fish. Anyway, this is your saw on thier site:
http://www.abbeygardensales.co.uk/s...onsered-cs2150-chainsaw/showitemJON 2150.aspx
I'd actually not be as worried about the saw though as what he's actually doing with it- A few cuts in the wrong place & the tree can end up anywhere if you're not careful, not to mention the fact that a slip can do major damage.
-Leezer-
Jonsred & STIHL are the cheaper end of the good quality chainsaws, nothing wrong with them, but still nowhere as good as Husqvarna, which are the really good quality saws in the larger sizes. (This was the full-size forrestry saws, & stuff like planking attachments etc.)
This sort of thing:
http://www.husqvarna.co.uk/node2158.asp?pid=29&cid=51
http://www.abbeygardensales.co.uk/s...usqvarna-3120xp-chainsaw/showitemHSQ3120.aspx
To the guy that posted Jonsred as the top end of saws, I do admit I'm referring to forestry grade stuff, not consumer/ lighter tree surgery which is a whole different kettle of fish. Anyway, this is your saw on thier site:
http://www.abbeygardensales.co.uk/s...onsered-cs2150-chainsaw/showitemJON 2150.aspx
I'd actually not be as worried about the saw though as what he's actually doing with it- A few cuts in the wrong place & the tree can end up anywhere if you're not careful, not to mention the fact that a slip can do major damage.
-Leezer-
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Associate
I got quite a collection of good chainsaws 
Petrol is always best they're dangerous enough without adding in the eletric hazard. The Mac will be fine for what you want also take a look at the Husqvarna 136 and 142 and the STIHL MS170 and 180. Check out Ebay you can pick up the smaller ones quite cheap. If you get a 017 018 or 024 they would all be quite cheap as there slightly older STIHL saws pre 2000.
Don't forget to spend 70 odd quid on a pair of chainsaw protective trousers.
Oh stay away from the STIHL 020T MS200T and the Husqvarna 335 and 338 as they're a pro saw which you need to hold about 4 certificates to get.
Petrol is always best they're dangerous enough without adding in the eletric hazard. The Mac will be fine for what you want also take a look at the Husqvarna 136 and 142 and the STIHL MS170 and 180. Check out Ebay you can pick up the smaller ones quite cheap. If you get a 017 018 or 024 they would all be quite cheap as there slightly older STIHL saws pre 2000.
Don't forget to spend 70 odd quid on a pair of chainsaw protective trousers.
Oh stay away from the STIHL 020T MS200T and the Husqvarna 335 and 338 as they're a pro saw which you need to hold about 4 certificates to get.
You need special certification to buy a saw?Angel said:
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BillytheImpaler said:You need special certification to buy a saw?
Because it's a top handled saw.
Stihl anyday
What is the benefit of having a top handled saw?
Associate
BillytheImpaler said:You need special certification to buy a saw?
Yes and no.
You can buy most chainsaws in the uk without the 'Chainsaw licence' however the ones i mention are saws used for areial tree work from a rope and harness. Thats why the handels on the top rather than the back. This leads to a greater kick back risk so they shoved a certifcate on them to stop unqualified people buying them.
If you want to work in forestry or tree surgery in the UK you need to hold a host of national certifcates to prove your compentent to do so.
Fair enough, thanks for the info, Angel.
Dad's looking into this
http://www.blackanddecker.com/ProductGuide/Product-Details.aspx?ProductID=9867#
Use that on the higher branches, then a chainsaw once we're further down.
Ok or useless piece of rubbish?
http://www.blackanddecker.com/ProductGuide/Product-Details.aspx?ProductID=9867#
Use that on the higher branches, then a chainsaw once we're further down.
Ok or useless piece of rubbish?
Associate
personly i think thery're going to be crap. If you want to cut up high go to HSS and hire a high level pruner about 30 quid a day. Its a 12" chainsaw on a stick and its kicks bottom. They are the greatest the number of hours such a tool has saved is untrue.
What type of tree you cutting down?
What type of tree you cutting down?
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squiffy said:
Might be best to get a pro in mate. They've got to be pushing 35' or so. IF they're conifiers they have no dorment buds so if you hack out the bottom to raise the hight of the crown it won't grow back. Also due to the way the grow they can be diffcut to fell whole. Normally need to know a few felling notches and have a pull line set to bring them over.
Associate
One of these should do the trick
Associate
Silent Bob said:One of these should do the trick
I met one of the guys who built that.
Associate
Hi,
some efco ones here:-
http://www.charliesstoresltd.co.uk/...oryID=12&SubCategoryID=52&MicroCategoryID=424
local shop buy us very good on price normally.
cheers
Deano
some efco ones here:-
http://www.charliesstoresltd.co.uk/...oryID=12&SubCategoryID=52&MicroCategoryID=424
local shop buy us very good on price normally.
cheers
Deano
Associate
If they are pretty big conifers, get someone fully qualified in and make sure they're fully insured. I've been climbing for about 2 years now, can do most stuff, rope n harness, section felling, etc etc, but i've found out you're ALWAYS learning. Just don't go cheap and get some half assed ***** to do the work, you will regret it, I can't tell you how many times we have to clear up the mess that other people make and the customer ends up paying out twice.
Do not buy a top handled saw from anyone, not only do you need certificates to use it, it's also illegal to use one on the ground, you are ONLY allowed to use it from a rope and harness while in a tree unless you've had a secondary handle fitted at the back for ground work.
Also make sure you have chainsaw leggings, you only need the tiniest touch of a chainsaw to do extreme damage, i've seen the results of carelessness and it isn't pretty.
As for makes, if you are gonna buy, go for a nice cheap Stihl or Husqvarna, both are dead easy to fix yourself and can be fixed cheaply if you have to take them in somewhere, just avoid the Husqy 357, I know of 3 that seized within 9 months of having them and another that's on the way out, they are a highly flawed saw!
Do not buy a top handled saw from anyone, not only do you need certificates to use it, it's also illegal to use one on the ground, you are ONLY allowed to use it from a rope and harness while in a tree unless you've had a secondary handle fitted at the back for ground work.
Also make sure you have chainsaw leggings, you only need the tiniest touch of a chainsaw to do extreme damage, i've seen the results of carelessness and it isn't pretty.
As for makes, if you are gonna buy, go for a nice cheap Stihl or Husqvarna, both are dead easy to fix yourself and can be fixed cheaply if you have to take them in somewhere, just avoid the Husqy 357, I know of 3 that seized within 9 months of having them and another that's on the way out, they are a highly flawed saw!
Associate
Phunk-E-Man said:
Always good to see another tree guy on the forum. Hows work? I got a Beach reduction lined up this week.
Associate
Work's going pretty good as it goes, doing powerline clearance for Central Networks/Fountains at the moment, easy work, great day rate and nice early finishes, only trouble is it's drying up and back to private work soon...whereabouts ya from, i'm worcestershire area
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Phunk-E-Man said:
St. Albans in Herts mate. Hurd a lot about Fountains you don't get a lot of climbing gear and there a bit tight on putting you through courses. I've self funded all my NPTC units and work for a local company. Not sure if i fancy line clearance, money great not sure if i fancy cutting 12" away from 3 phase lines though. I do all domestic work, i'd like to do some LA work but Gristwood and Toms got all that.
Associate
Glad to safe we're only sub-contracted to Fountains, I work with my cousin and two other lads, all our own kit, truck, chipper etc...pretty much same boat as you, all self funded and put through NPTC ourselves, fountains are a joke to work for direct, but they pay £200 per person per day for subbies, so it's not too bad!
Technically if the tree is only 12" away, it should be a shutdown, but sometimes it's too much effort to put in all the paperwork, so we do the work anyway...with insulated tools of course
It can be quite hairy on the power lines sometimes but it sure as hell beats private work for effort vs wages
Technically if the tree is only 12" away, it should be a shutdown, but sometimes it's too much effort to put in all the paperwork, so we do the work anyway...with insulated tools of course
It can be quite hairy on the power lines sometimes but it sure as hell beats private work for effort vs wages