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If you look at installation guidelines for Marmox board, just screws/washers on the floor is fine for timber. Your floor should be flat/level given you've replaced it.

Finished destroying the bathroom removing the old shower and started insulating walls.

Fitting PIR in the rafters still. For anyone with a good amount of PIR to cut the Bosch soft material blades are amazing for cutting it, wish I'd got some sooner. Some reviews say they track off, but used properly they are brilliant...

If its an internal wall then Rockwool acoustic, normally in slab form rather than roll. You dont generally need thermal insulation on a partition wall. Something like RWA45.

I'm sure he was, I'd of gone £250 but £350 was just a step too far. The hardest bit was sizing the lead pipe to get the correct leadloc, could have just bought a couple but nowhere local sells them. Surprisingly easy to fit, I've always steered clear of messing with old lead pipes in the past...

Replaced the non functional stop tap and removed 2m of internal lead pipe that I found during the bathroom rip out. Will eventually get the lead water main changed to MDPE, but current priority was a functioning stop tap and sorting out the mess of plumbing. Not a job I wanted to do myself...

Ripped the bathroom out, pulled down lathe and plaster sloped ceiling to insulate. Discovered the tiles were dabbed on plasterboard, which in turn was dabbed on lathe and plaster covered in flaking paint. Pulled the entire wall off in one piece with zero effort. Many other bodges to rectify...

Paver just acts like a mass damper. I've got an MF100 fitted to the rafters and it doesnt carry any vibration through, I guess a lot depends on build quality. You could always just use bungee cord and suspend it.

If you mount it to the rafters the noise transmission is even less.

The MF100 even at its lowest setting pulls 180 m3/hr. It would have cycled the air from your bathroom just over 7 times an hour. That thing you've bought does 400 m2/hr at its lowest setting so would cycle 14 times per hour. So yes, well over the top :cry: Do you not read data sheets!

You shouldnt have a 240v socket within 3m of a water source.

https://www.extractorfanworld.co.uk/six-inch---150mm-ducting-grilles--accessories-194-c.asp for all your extracting requirements.

The vent depends on your roof tile type, and if you want it to blend in or are not that bothered. For Marley tiles you can buy matched vent tiles https://beddoesproducts.com/collections/marley-tile-vents For inline units I've always used Manrose, something like the MF100. Internal vent is just a...

It doesn't have a flex outlet, but I've used these in the past for a Wi-Fi enabled fused spur. https://companyblue.co.uk/products/wifi-timer-fused-spur-wall-controller-electric-towel-rail?variant=16979543162951

If you want to keep the thickness of the subfloor down, you could use 12mm ply and overboard with 6mm Hardieboard or NMP. I've done it previously and the floor was solid on 400mm centres, no movement/cracking of the tile. Might need noggins depending on if you have flex in the existing joists.

Yep, 50mm PIR and 25mm RWA45. Total added thickness is 87.5mm including plasterboard, removed about 30mm old plaster so just over 50mm total addition. Brings the U value from just over 2 to just below 0.3 so well worth it. Can feel the difference in the rooms completed.

I use this stuff as adhesive. https://www.diy.com/departments/soudal-genius-gun-plasterboard-adhesive-750ml/1416342_BQ.prd Surprisingly B&Q are the cheapest place for it, sticks like S!*t to a blanket. And yes the plasterboard goes on the battens, I put RWA45 in the gaps for extra thermal and...

You'd think expanding foam was an expensive commodity given how little they seem to use to seal round a window, nearly all of mine were the same. Whacked a load of roam round the edge and its fine, it was sealed from the outside but only with sealant, hardly the most effective of insulators...

That grout float looks terrible, can quite easily see how the tiles would end up scratched if he used that. Unless the Mapei grout was heavily contaminated there is no way it would do that to the tiles from normal grouting.

If you're really worried about cracking at the corner even with a bead, you can get preformed plasterboard corners https://vcut.co.uk/product/l-shape-plasterboard/ although sit down before you look at the price. My missus is hardly careful shutting our door which is plastered right up to the...