I think on the volvo you can remove the motor from the caliper and wind the piston back with a T40 torx bit. My EPB has just gone on my Range Rover and I was able to reset it with an Autel AP200 with the Land Rover specific software. I find the icarsoft stuff is pretty good IF it is the...
Mostly I think it is lazy steering. Because people don't turn the wheel far/fast enough swinging wide allows them a lazier turn. It's the same with people who cut the centre line when turning right, they turn slightly and early to drive quicker and put in less effort.
If they just steered...
Honestly I cannot fault the kit in any way. The components were all excellent and the only issues have been caused by the design flaws (front idlers twisting and damaging belts) in the printed parts.
Exclusively Esun ABS+. The Z-Axiz motor mounts are outside the enclosure in the cooled electronics area. I am running 110 bed and 255 hotend. I doubt the motor mounts ever get higher than about 22 degrees celcius.
Got over 300 hours on it now with the PLA+ motor mounts and still haven't had any problem. Got replacements in ABS+ but have no motivation to change them :cry:
Doesn't fix the physical limitation but allows it to have up to 256 steps per 1.8 degree although 16 steps is seen to be the best balance of resolution and holding torque. In reality it is mostly used for smoothing rather than resolution. The best way to improve resolution is with gearing as...
As per everyone else you need a bit of Z-Offset in your slicer or physically adjust your Z-Offset. If you're using superslicer (Pretty much the best and free) run the calibration tests and you can get it dialled in.
It's fine as it is in the cooled area of the printer (won't get to over 55 degrees unless the house is burning) and will last long enough to print the new ones in ABS+ or ASA+
It also has a much higher tensile strength than ABS.
Onto wiring now (with the PLA+ parts installed)
Just need to...
Well I don't recommend Blurolls for printed parts, they fell apart before the printer had even been turned on...
The Afterburner head has signs of melting during printing and lots more flaws I have found on close inspection.
The motor mounts are not only printed with insufficient infill and...
Got them from Blurolls as they were the cheapest for a full kit including skirts etc. Am very happy so far has gone together very well with no issues and the premade loom means I can spend more time on cable management :D
Got my parts today and they look fairly decent, rails are silky smooth (Vivedino), branded Sunon Fans, Meanwell PSU, Moons Stepper Motors, Omron SSR, BTT Octopus V1.1 (2 ducks) Premade wiring and E3D V6 hotend.
Now to get building!
Been tinkering with my Anet A8+ for a while now, upgraded to Pi control with Octaprint, got myself reasonably familiar with Linux and RaspberryPi OS so just ordered all the parts I need to build a Voron 2.4 CoreXY plus all the 3d printed parts I need as I don't rate the Anet for ABS.
Pretty...
I normally go with 70 degrees bed temp for first layer then 60 degrees for the rest of the print. Get yourself a digital infrared thermometer to check the bed temperature.
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