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just gone a bit further than that on my stairs, they where quite bad though and 5 treads had splits running right accross them. also someone in the past had tried screwing the bottom of the risers into the back of the treads and made a right mess of it by not drilling pilot holes. i fixed 3/4...

the stuff i use(tilemaster rapid level 30) is pretty good at levelling it's self, just needs a quick trowel out. i'm usually putting it over electric UFH so can't use a spiked roller. have to work fast though as it lives up to its name. also foam gun is handy to keep it in the area you want it.

sounds like i need to put my rates up(saying that without knowing any details, mitreing the corners adds quite a bit of time)

if the black stuff is stable i would prime it with this stuff https://www.tilemasteradhesives.co.uk/preparation-products/prime-and-grip-multi-purpose-bond-enhancing-primer works much better than the standard primers on "problem" surfaces.

i wouldn't but then i would be getting paid for doing it. i would knock of the plaster back to block in the area to be tiled and then build it back out by sticking on tile backer boards or sand/cement render if not enough depth for boards. if the tiles are heavy like porcilan or stone they will...

bloke next door to a job i was on last year fitted some integrated panels himself on his extension(he's a builder/roofer), just got someone to connect up. his roof is westmorland green slate so he "saved" a good chunk of money in needing less slate. a decent roofer will be able to do just as...

thats the dordogne door, howdens had an offer on that might still be on the holdenby doors which are almost the same, grooves are smaller. i got a couple at £65 plus vat each on my brothers account.(that was the price on the leaflet they'd sent him)

if there is any it will probably be rockwool, would be best to remove it and replace with as much celotex or similar as you can making sure you keep a 50mm air gap above the insulation. its very unlikely you'll be able to get enough in to meet current building regs so just go for as much as you...

as you say its not in a wet area i would just dab on plasterboard and tile straight onto that. those classiseals are worth using as well, just don't fit it to tight round the corners like some plumbers do its very rare i use rapid set now unless its a small job i want to grout the same day...

ready mixed tile adhesive, it really is **** stuff. only time i'll ever use it now is on small ceramic kitchen tiles. not sure on the c1 or c2, the adhesive i use is marked either s1 or s2 on the bag depending on the job. this one is c2...

most plumbers i know will use powdered tile adhesive now, go back 10 years and it was silicone but i think they realized silicone doesn't work when the floors aren't level/flat. went to tile a job last year and the tray moved when i stood on it, it lifted up really easily and found it had been...

i just went with the cheapest way for me to do it wich was pipes laid over the insulation and then a biscuit screed(25/30mm 8 to 1 sand/cement) to cover them finishing level with the top of the joists. thats the way my mate i mentioned above did it and his works well. think the important bit...

the UFH doesn't work better with a heat pump, the heat pump works better with UFH as the heat pump gives out a lower temp water than a boiler. i've recently fitted it in a suspended floor but untill i do the kitchen floor the manifold isn't connected to the boiler so can't comment on how well...

as long as the flooring is rated for it its fine, will be 20mm thick and over a joisted floor with a biscuit screed over the UFH pipes. the above mentioned UFH is why i'm doing it this way, a subfloor will have to much timber over the UFH and effect the heat coming through.

engineered for me, looks better, nicer to walk on barefoot and can be more easily repaired. also mine will be fitted in one room(other room i'm doing is concrete) as a structual floor straight onto the joists so the actual oak layer will be 5/6mm thick.

insulation between the joists sorts that, i managed to get 90mm kingspan between mine, yes a solid floor with continuios insulation would be better but it will be good enough. if i hadn't taken up the floor to put in the UFH there would have only been a floorboard between the room and a cold...

doing it in my house at the moment, wet UFH downstairs, rads upstairs. the boiler runs at the normal temp for rads( unlike what someone above says) and the blending valve on the manifold controls the underfloor temp. just put the pipes in for the lounge which is a joisted floor, insulated and...

theres no excuse for it not looking like that, hanging doors is an easy basic skill for a joiner(or should be), anyone who can't do a good job hanging doors isn't much use as a joiner. at least im in the building trade so know quite a few decent joiners. couldn't use my normal one last time but...

https://www.howdens.com/joinery/doors/howdens-holdenby-oak-door-obj-sku-family-die6960 thats the one i went with, slightly narrower and shallower groove than the other howdens one above, not sure which one the link in the OP is like but i actually prefer the smaller groove.

like i mentioned above my wife uses lots of differant ones at work, she doesn't rate any of the shark models she has used.