Sounds like a scam to me. - Surely a taxi would need to be repaired ASAP because it's someone's livelihood, and wouldn't they have called the police if you'd driven into them and left without exchanging details?
Seconded.
"Oil" just means it's a non-polar viscous liquid that's not thick enough to be a grease.
There's a fair degree of variation in the definition of synthetic oils; all the way from remanufactured mineral oils (catalytic hydrogenation), to blended esthers.
I found them quite helpful if you take parts back and say "these track rod ends don't fit my car despite ECP selling them as the correct fitment" (for example)... even if you bought them online and not from the store you drop in to.
Loose hub nut? - You wouldn't think so if they've done a professional change on the wheel bearing.
Sticking calliper slider? - You wouldn't think that would cause any vibrations, but if it's cooking the pad because it's always in contact with the brake that might explain it.
Other than the above suggestions; is it a dual tank vehicle (and that's letting you know you're using the reserve tank)? - Probably not, but you see that on Landcruisers.
Isn't the C rating for diesel engines and A for petrol?
My bad. - It's B for diesel and C is common for low sulphur fuels (which I misunderstood to mean "EURO" spec diesels).
Reading between the lines, a C3 oil is probably also A3?
My wife used to be able to get the Skyline stuck in park because of this. - I'm not entirely sure of the mechanism, but I think she'd let it roll back and the pawl take it... and the transmission would register that as in-gear (or perhaps in-fault) and prevent the engine from starting.
The HKS DMW logs the your position (and speed) by GPS and embeds it in the video file; is that what you mean?
You can't remotely access or track it though, and I suspect that's what your client wants.
Ditto. - Actually I think I can get a new friction disc and cover plate for ~£350, but to replace it last time the engine, gearbox and transfer case all had to come out.
Changing the clutch was easy, but not getting to it.
The outdoor sensor light for our place seems to be wired directly to the fuse box; the one for the rear of the house has a switch (next to the fuses), but the one at the front has nothing.
If yours is the same, you're going to need to install your own switch I suspect.
That's what Mighty Car Mods say.... put it on the dyno and it makes no difference to the power with a CAI on it.
As above though; it can't hurt, and it probably does reduce heat-soak over time.
I'm not sure my ECU got that message; there's a lot of pops and bangs when I engine-brake, so I suspect it's still throwing fuel in. - Not a huge problem since there's a silencer where the cat used to be, but the ECU doesn't know that.
My mother-in-law refers to coasting in neutral as "angel...
1990 GTiR
Passenger-side door almost rusted through.
Driver's door latch mechanism damaged.
Rear arches rotten.
Boot lock not keyed the same as the doors (so you can only open it from inside the car).
Rear bumper hacked to fit exhaust (and badly repaired at some point).
Front bumper damaged...
Looks like "fire cement" to me; I think it's probably safe.
I've got a copy of the British Standard for cements at work, I can have a look to see what the recommended composition is. - I've got a feeling that it's OPC-based high-alumina for the temperature resistance.
As above; asbestos is...
Oooh spell check, you unhelpful thing.... that should have read "export agents"
I hear you can get sexpot agents in the Philippines, but that's the kind of thing that got Gary Glitter in trouble isn't it?
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