306 D Turbo Overheating
- Thread starter Joe T
- Start date
ajgoodfellow said:
The XUD based Dturbo went way past 1997 mate, T plate is as far as I'm aware where the HDI was introduced,as you can see in this ebay link, the old 1905cc lump . The HDI is much more refined and certainly doesn't seem to smoke as much as the old mechanical 306 DT engine.
digitalwolf said:But all the D- Turbo's I know of sound like tractors and smoke like chimneys.
Is it normal for the D-Turbo to damage the ozone layer to such an extent?
To be honest, as much as I love my car I fully admit at idle they are the most unrefined thing ever (bar a tractor or a mondeo TD). The vibration and noise from the engine is very noticable. With a bit of music or actually driving at speed though you don't notice it.
Soldato
-Mike- said:
Again, I got this from Parker's
They don't seem to be that accurate for the 306!
Soldato
lol
No worries - I didn't know so I'd thought I'd look it up
No worries - I didn't know so I'd thought I'd look it up
Though personally. Don't get one. Your money is better off spent on a xsara if you dont mind the look of them. Same Chassis, just a different shell. Oh and apparently a much nicer interior, but I don't spend much time studying mine so I can't tell you.
Soldato
I don't like the shape of the xsara though!
I take it the D Turbo is noisier than the HDi then?
What do I need to look out for when buying these high mileage diesils?
I take it the D Turbo is noisier than the HDi then?
What do I need to look out for when buying these high mileage diesils?
digitalwolf said:
Worn suspension components mainly.
Electical faults - can't help you much on this but whilst I had my 306 I had a problem were i'd have the lights on, and then when I went to indicate AND brake the numper plate lights and brake lights would flash lol. Easily fixed though.
Just check all the lights and basic stuff like windscreen wipers.
Mine had 118,000 on it when I got it and I put 10,000 miles on it in the 2 months + that I owned it and never had any problems with the engine, just a couple of electrical faults.
Soldato
Is this a costly repair?
Each little bit isn't that expensive, you're looking at around £43 for the complete wishbone assembly (track control arm I think) and about £15 for it to be fitted. I think this is probably the most common wear and tear part on the front suspension setup.
I've just realised - apologies to the thread starter we've kinda ripped his thread to pieces
I've just realised - apologies to the thread starter we've kinda ripped his thread to pieces
it also shares the same chassis/brakes/suspensionEnfield said:
you know where i am going.as said already main thing is suspension and electrics, if your handy wityh a spanner the suspension is not a problem, P bushes are common and cost about £8 each, wishbones too , and also Droplinks go too these are about £15 each side, on the rear you might get a knocking that will be your torsion bar mounts (again no more than £40) they are reasonably common to go (well i mean it is likely to go one time in the cars life) but not as often as front suspension.
the door wiring looms are a pain in these and can cause all sorts of electrical faults bad design means the wires break in the doors. Alarms dont often work due to crappy pug alarm siren.
Power steering ram is often a common leak too costs about £90 from gsf and is an easy enough job if you can get under the car.
As with anycar make sure the cambelt has been changed on schedule, i think its 60k for the diesel? not sure on this though worth checking up on as you dont want it to snap
.Airbag light may come on too due to wiring under seat being dodgy (common on PSA cars) takes a 10 min fix reconect and secure the conection.
the Xud9 engine will go on for ever as long as you give it 6-7k oil changes, the gearbox is not quite as strong but is pretty good and often a lot of box problems are just due to crap oil, so a quick change fixes this and makles shifts much smoother.
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Malachy said:it also shares the same chassis/brakes/suspension
Its the same car in a less desirable casing?
This also means it attracts a lower price for a newer car. For the equivalent 306 money you can get a more loaded xsara, on a newer plate.....which also shared the same chassis/brakes/suspension nah i wasnt going that way i was just going, citreon test there time withou payload and pug do so it gives a more realistic time to compare to-Mike- said:Its the same car in a less desirable casing?
and yes the 306 is the same car as the zx and xsara i do like it but has caused me a few problems no where near as reliable as my old primera Gt.-Mike- said:I used to be in love with those cars
also they dont have too great a range of engines max power being 135bhp in the xu10j4 (2l 16v)
this summer will be doing a bit of work to mine, needs a new retrim (my leather is getting a bit old and the green is a bit ...........90's), and then i am looking at solving the power problem, either a 2l8v turbo with upped boost from a 406sri (hopefully would be about 200bhp and bolts straight in), gti6 engine with uprated cams and remap (proberly wont bother due to cambelt failure is so common unless you change belt every 2nd sunday), or my favourite would be an EW engine from the 206gti either in 180 or 137 format (137 would ofcourse take a bit of tuning before going in) ew engine bolts in but needs a gearbox mod (bellhousing change)as it sits at a different angle not allowing the driveshafts to line up.
EW engine seems best as it is all alu, dry linered too so would be better base for future modding. although the engine is more expensive in first place i think this will be compensated for by the mods etc needed on other engines
yeah i have seen them not a big fan of ecosses work especially the cab v6 conversion, they angled the engine too far forward (pug performance do a better job) with the engine being angl;ed so far forward the weight was infront of the front wheels and ofc will screw up handling no end. I havent any pics atm but i could go into works car park now and take some with camera phone and post later , only have a camera phone so kinda sucks 
Anyways its completly stock at moment although have a bilstein - 40mm spring + damper set to go on when i can be assed and have enough patience to play with the torsion bar
, only have a camera phone so kinda sucks Anyways its completly stock at moment although have a bilstein - 40mm spring + damper set to go on when i can be assed and have enough patience to play with the torsion bar
Hey guys, hope you are enjoying my thread!
On the overheating issue, my brother and I spent most of yesterday playing with it. We drained and replaced the coolant, and played around with a few things. In the end we gave up, and he took it to a workshop today. The repalced the water temperature sensor and switch. All seems ok now.
Now back to whatever you were all talking about
On the overheating issue, my brother and I spent most of yesterday playing with it. We drained and replaced the coolant, and played around with a few things. In the end we gave up, and he took it to a workshop today. The repalced the water temperature sensor and switch. All seems ok now.
Now back to whatever you were all talking about