Think I had a bit of a brain fart tbh, thought I read on their website the heat sink is aluminium but it's nickel plated copper, never mind.....
Josh.
Galvanic Corrosion - How to prevent it
- Thread starter Brizzles
- Start date
Josh.
I’ve seen people lately decrying galvanic corrosion in loops, telling me I’m mad and that the metals have to be in direct contact to occur, and with inhibitors you don’t need to worry about dissimilar metals. I’m not chemist so I don’t know for sure, but I’d rather be cautious than sorry.
For me, I don’t mix metals regardless of fluid additives. I keep them as close as possible and use XT1 clear. I don’t like coloured fluids, they might look nice to some people but I think the more stuff you add, the more you risk gunked blocks and reduce performance.
While we’re at it, imo not all waters are made equal. I’ve not used h20 pure, but from what I can tell it’s very good as a base, just as you’ve said. However, I don’t use de-ionised water as I’ve read it can re-ionise by pulling ions from the metals in your loop. It often seems to be more expensive, but I use distilled water with clear concentrate additives (XT1).
Given how good and concise this guide is, a note on distilled and deionised water could be a useful addition.
Great guide, thanks for posting it.
For me, I don’t mix metals regardless of fluid additives. I keep them as close as possible and use XT1 clear. I don’t like coloured fluids, they might look nice to some people but I think the more stuff you add, the more you risk gunked blocks and reduce performance.
While we’re at it, imo not all waters are made equal. I’ve not used h20 pure, but from what I can tell it’s very good as a base, just as you’ve said. However, I don’t use de-ionised water as I’ve read it can re-ionise by pulling ions from the metals in your loop. It often seems to be more expensive, but I use distilled water with clear concentrate additives (XT1).
Given how good and concise this guide is, a note on distilled and deionised water could be a useful addition.
Great guide, thanks for posting it.
Don
It’s probably worth mentioning that Mayhems X1 isn’t even water based so should completely avoid issues around galvanic corrosion between that and the other additives in the liquid.
If you are using water though, you should be using corrosion inhibitor additives regardless of what metals you have in your loop as copper, nickel and brass aren’t all identical. I’ve seen bad thread corrosion between brass fittings and copper blocks running loops with pure H2O.
The thing with aluminium is to make sure you don’t have it in physical contact with other metals in the loop. This is what Swiftech found to their cost (that’s one of their waterblock lids in the OP), badly anodised aluminium top on a copper block ended up with top disintegrating after a matter of months. Thankfully the industry has largely learned from that sort of thing and you tend not to see these sorts of problems. I’ve been using passive aluminium radiators for well over 10 years without issue with just being sensible.
Only issues that seem to crop up these days is nickel plating failure due to incompatibility issues with copper sulphate based biocides which were very popular 20 years or so ago in the likes of PTnuke. Even these seem to limited to particular manufactures plating techniques, though that could just be as a consequence of how popular their products are compared to the competition.
Personally these days I would just go with a high quality pre-mix or concentrate. As mentioned before, I’ve started using Mayhems X1 as it is pretty much foolproof.
If you are using water though, you should be using corrosion inhibitor additives regardless of what metals you have in your loop as copper, nickel and brass aren’t all identical. I’ve seen bad thread corrosion between brass fittings and copper blocks running loops with pure H2O.
The thing with aluminium is to make sure you don’t have it in physical contact with other metals in the loop. This is what Swiftech found to their cost (that’s one of their waterblock lids in the OP), badly anodised aluminium top on a copper block ended up with top disintegrating after a matter of months. Thankfully the industry has largely learned from that sort of thing and you tend not to see these sorts of problems. I’ve been using passive aluminium radiators for well over 10 years without issue with just being sensible.
Only issues that seem to crop up these days is nickel plating failure due to incompatibility issues with copper sulphate based biocides which were very popular 20 years or so ago in the likes of PTnuke. Even these seem to limited to particular manufactures plating techniques, though that could just be as a consequence of how popular their products are compared to the competition.
Personally these days I would just go with a high quality pre-mix or concentrate. As mentioned before, I’ve started using Mayhems X1 as it is pretty much foolproof.
Associate
Vyer interesting/useful information. As a WC noob, I feel the need to ask a quation which I think I already know the anwer to...but here goes.
My lopp will include: -
Aorus GeForce RTX 2080 Ti Xtreme Waterforce WB 11264MB GDDR6 PCI-Express Graphics Card
Phanteks Glacier C350A CPU Water Block Acrylic Cover RGB LED - Black
2 x XSPC D5 Photon 270 Reservoir / Pump Combo V2 - Sata Power
I was going to use 2 x ThermalTake Pacific RL360 Plus RGB Radiator - 360mm but, if I understand things correctly, these radiators have an aluminium core which might not play well with the other components. I know the Phanteks block is copper/nickel and I think (am not 100% sure) that the GPU block might also copper-based too.
Anyone off any advice or comments? If I need to order differnt radiators, any suggestions?
TIA
My lopp will include: -
Aorus GeForce RTX 2080 Ti Xtreme Waterforce WB 11264MB GDDR6 PCI-Express Graphics Card
Phanteks Glacier C350A CPU Water Block Acrylic Cover RGB LED - Black
2 x XSPC D5 Photon 270 Reservoir / Pump Combo V2 - Sata Power
I was going to use 2 x ThermalTake Pacific RL360 Plus RGB Radiator - 360mm but, if I understand things correctly, these radiators have an aluminium core which might not play well with the other components. I know the Phanteks block is copper/nickel and I think (am not 100% sure) that the GPU block might also copper-based too.
Anyone off any advice or comments? If I need to order differnt radiators, any suggestions?
TIA
Given the many other options, i would avoid personally.
Just by the parts you have listed, you are spending a lot of money here, so you are risking possible issues for the sake of an RGB strip.
The Thermaltake site doesn't make much sense to me either ;
Not only are they using Aluminium they are also adding Zinc which is more reactive than Aluminium on the Anodic Index, which 'corrodes over time' ?
Far better/safer options available from Hardware Labs or EKWB.
Just by the parts you have listed, you are spending a lot of money here, so you are risking possible issues for the sake of an RGB strip.
The Thermaltake site doesn't make much sense to me either ;
https://www.ttpremium.com/product/pacific-rl360-plus-rgb-radiator/
Not only are they using Aluminium they are also adding Zinc which is more reactive than Aluminium on the Anodic Index, which 'corrodes over time' ?
Far better/safer options available from Hardware Labs or EKWB.
Associate
Thanks for the info.
This build is awaiting a 3950x so yes. it's a fairly high-end project (well, it is for me, anyway!!). I've had a look at the Harware Labs products and they seem well reviewed. The Nemesis Black Ice 360 GTR seems to be well reviewed although I will need to check it ftis my case. Main reason for the TT option was that I have a Tower 900 and I'd seen that radiator used in another build so I know it fits. I don't think I will have any problems, but pays to check.
This build is awaiting a 3950x so yes. it's a fairly high-end project (well, it is for me, anyway!!). I've had a look at the Harware Labs products and they seem well reviewed. The Nemesis Black Ice 360 GTR seems to be well reviewed although I will need to check it ftis my case. Main reason for the TT option was that I have a Tower 900 and I'd seen that radiator used in another build so I know it fits. I don't think I will have any problems, but pays to check.
Don
Great, using sacrificial corrosion to protect the radiator - not sure what that'll do to the rest of the loop!
Associate
Sorry, I don't quite understand what you mean by that?
Don
Post above yours.
Associate
Soldato
- Joined
- 1 Dec 2015
- Posts
- 18,514
ah, Just completed ASME Planet Inspectors course and API 570 ... damn so many formulas for working out Corrosion rates and remaining time span 
nothing funnier telling someone stainless steel corrodes - or more to the point Stress cracking via chlorides - people always forget atmospheric corrosion
nothing funnier telling someone stainless steel corrodes - or more to the point Stress cracking via chlorides - people always forget atmospheric corrosion
Associate
Just a quick question i have got a nickel mobo+cpu block + a nickel GPU block am i right in thinking then i MUST go for a nickel rad? however unless im begin silly i cant seem to find a nickel rad they all seem to be mainly aluminum?
It will be nikel plated copper most probably, you can safely use a 'standard' radiator ( copper/brass).
Some might mention aluminium housing - that would also be OK as the housing doesn't make any contact with the liquid, but don't use a 100% aluminium radiator
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This, it's nickel plated copper. Copper or brass rads are compatible.
Associate
thanks all i knew i should id payed attention more in science 
lol
lol
Associate
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-w...c-360-slim-triple-fan-radiator-wc-9s0-ek.html
Will work ok as its copper tubing?
Will work ok as its copper tubing?
Associate
Yes. The vast majority of radiators sold for custom loops are (like the one you linked) copper/brass so you will be fine - the one exception I know of is EK's A-series kit which seems to be discontinued.
Associate
thanks all appreciate your help.