High CPU temps after PSU change

r00s73r · 30 Jul 2020 at 12:31

Hey guys

MB: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI
CPU: QuadCore Intel Core i7-4790, 3800 MHz (38 x 100)
CPU cooler: Hydro H60
PSU: Super Flower Leadex II 1200W

My PC died in the middle of gaming, which was followed by a bang. Following the smell, I determined it was my six years old 650W Leadex power supply. I decided to replace it and since I know close to nothing about this stuff I got myself one that looked pretty much the same but with 1200W on it.

I replaced the old one(650W) for the new one(1200W), changed the cables, changed the battery on the MB (re-setting BIOS), started the whole thing up and it's working pretty much the same apart from one tiny problem - the CPU temperatures seem to be quite high, idle or not.

When I start/shut down the PC, the CPU fan goes full speed then it calms down but if I disturb the CPU by opening any application, it revs up again. It's as if it was in a constant state of high RPM and it just goes higher. With my old PSU, it never behaved like this. Temps weren't that high either, as far as I know.

I thought that when the old PSU died, this might've caused some damage to the MB or CPU, or could re-setting the BIOS be responsible? Any advice would be appreciated.

I took some screenshots of some stuff for you tech-savvy folk. I reapplied the thermal paste on the CPU, just in case. It did bring the temps down by few points (compared to the screenshots) but it still behaves the same.

Idle(just background apps): https://ibb.co/Hd4Mmtc
"Stressed" (5 minutes of gaming): https://ibb.co/L0RxZkX

foster grant · 30 Jul 2020 at 12:42

I see you have the same CPU as myself and with a H100 sitting on it my idle temps are around 33c and when gaming mine goes to about 54c maybe you need a new cooler ?

ANDARIAL · 30 Jul 2020 at 12:42

CPU cooler: Hydro H60
How old is this?
Is the pump working now? any vibrations?

foster grant · 30 Jul 2020 at 12:46

Get one of these

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/cors...uid-cooler-240mm-cw-9060043-ww-hs-03x-cs.html

r00s73r · 30 Jul 2020 at 12:55

foster grant said:
I see you have the same CPU as myself and with a H100 sitting on it my idle temps are around 33c and when gaming mine goes to about 54c maybe you need a new cooler ?

I had pretty much the same before.

ANDARIAL said:
CPU cooler: Hydro H60
How old is this?
Is the pump working now? any vibrations?

I got this one last November, so it's fairly new. I don't hear any vibrations or noises apart from the fan going faster.

foster grant said:
Get one of these
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/cors...uid-cooler-240mm-cw-9060043-ww-hs-03x-cs.html

Don't think I could fit that into my case.

foster grant · 30 Jul 2020 at 13:23

OK well you need to do something to get those temps down as in a new cooler , any pics of the case you have ?

r00s73r · 30 Jul 2020 at 13:52

foster grant said:
OK well you need to do something to get those temps down as in a new cooler , any pics of the case you have ?

https://ibb.co/gyPXcZ5
https://ibb.co/R4T1B9x

I keep the case open all the time so it's not the airflow. As I've said, it started after I replaced my power supply (and reset BIOS). It is possible that when the PSU died, it'd caused some collateral damage to the CPU or the cooler. I don't know.

foster grant · 30 Jul 2020 at 14:24

OK so I couldnt see a fan covering that cooler rad ?

r00s73r · 30 Jul 2020 at 14:28

foster grant said:
OK so I couldnt see a fan covering that cooler rad ?

It's behind it (between rad/case).

foster grant · 30 Jul 2020 at 14:36

OK im assuming your sucking air through that rad and out the back of the case even though ( in my opinion ) the fan should be blowing air over the rad and out the back....but as I said before you need a new cooler as those temps are telling me the cooler pump as gone.

r00s73r · 30 Jul 2020 at 14:41

foster grant said:
OK im assuming your sucking air through that rad and out the back of the case even though ( in my opinion ) the fan should be blowing air over the rad and out the back....but as I said before you need a new cooler as those temps are telling me the cooler pump as gone.

I installed it based on the official guide and it was working fine. I guess I'm getting a new cooler too, again.

foster grant · 30 Jul 2020 at 14:43

what case is that in the picture is it a corsair case ?

And to be honest any advice dont go to Corsair videos, come to this forum

and if i can say dont buy another H60 get something newer. as in the link i posted

r00s73r · 30 Jul 2020 at 14:51

This is the case https://www.overclockers.co.uk/bitfenix-ronin-tower-case-black-ca-129-bx.html
Yeah, that's why I'm here.

Gray2233 · 30 Jul 2020 at 14:51

There's a chance that while fiddling about you've knocked something out of place or loosened something.

Reseat the HSF and apply some fresh thermal paste, make sure everything is plugged in properly and that the fan is spinning.

Failing that, I absolutely would not spend £110 on an HSF for that rig.

Something like this should be ample:

My basket at Overclockers UK:

1 x Arctic Freezer 34 CPU Cooler - 120mm= £20.99

Total: £20.99 (includes shipping: £0.00)

A non-K stock 4790 shouldn't be generating tons of heat.

EsaT · 30 Jul 2020 at 20:49

Possibly pump just decided to go AWOL/end its work contract.
If coolant is circulating properly, one tube should feel hotter than other.
Some H60's have separate SATA power connector for pump, so if it's such model did you reconnect it?

While Intel's bubblegum/toothpaste under heatspreader going bad would be another possibility, that would happen gradually over time.

And no sense to go for extremely overpriced per performance marketing liquid cooler, especially for such by todays standards very low end PC.
(next-gen consoles coming before Christmas have doubled total CPU power)
Those small and skinny radiators just don't have that much surfare area for dissipating heat into air.
And really for that CPU's heat output (from time when Intel's TDPs were honest) that £21 Arctic Freezer 34 would be good.
While this would be well beefier than those small marketing liquid coolers for mighty expensive £43.
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/alpenfohn-brocken-3-cpu-cooler-140mm-hs-05a-al.html

Gray2233 · 30 Jul 2020 at 21:03

EsaT said:
While Intel's bubblegum/toothpaste under heatspreader going bad would be another possibility, that would happen gradually over time.

When that goes bad it's a little more immediate and expressive in my experience.

I had a 3770K running for years at 1.250 at 4.6ghz rock solid. I sold it a few months ago doing just that without a hitch on a HSF similar to the Freezer 34. Idle was in the 20-30's and max temps gaming were in the 50's. I had another identical setup that just crapped the bed.

OP's max drawn is under 1.250, which I would say is the safe limit before the crap-paste under the IHS starts to cook.

I wouldn't recommend most AiO's to begin with, let alone a low end like the H60, but as stated I expect the OP has nudged something out of place.

r00s73r · 30 Jul 2020 at 22:10

Gray2233 said:
There's a chance that while fiddling about you've knocked something out of place or loosened something.

Reseat the HSF and apply some fresh thermal paste, make sure everything is plugged in properly and that the fan is spinning.
Failing that, I absolutely would not spend £110 on an HSF for that rig.

Something like this should be ample:

My basket at Overclockers UK:

1 x Arctic Freezer 34 CPU Cooler - 120mm= £20.99

Total: £20.99 (includes shipping: £0.00)

A non-K stock 4790 shouldn't be generating tons of heat.

It is possible. I checked and everything seems to be plugged in the way it should. The fan is definitely spinning. I reapplied the paste, as stated in my OP and temps went down a little (around 5 degrees) but it's still high. I got this cooler because my previous one was a similar model and I was satisfied with it and knew it would fit but I get your point. I'll check this one out thanks.

EsaT said:
Possibly pump just decided to go AWOL/end its work contract.
If coolant is circulating properly, one tube should feel hotter than other.
Some H60's have separate SATA power connector for pump, so if it's such model did you reconnect it?

While Intel's bubblegum/toothpaste under heatspreader going bad would be another possibility, that would happen gradually over time.

You might be right. I checked the tubes and they seem to be around the same temp. This one is powered through SATA and has two other connectors (3 and 4 pin). Funnilly, my previous one got busted pump so it would make strange noise then just overheat and turn off the PC. This case is different. Everything seemed to be working, just the temps are high. I just didn't consider the pump breaking again| (maybe it was caused when the PSU died), since I got it not so long ago. I guess I was overcomplicating the problem. I'll try and replace it and post the result here. Thank you all for the advice.

Mr Mcgoo · 2 Aug 2020 at 17:50

Is it possible that the PSU going pop took the pump with it. Seen it happen before. Either way r.i.p h60

IceStorm · 6 Aug 2020 at 21:21

with a reset bios perhaps the fan curves have changed
since its behaving differently than before even at idle

other than that, id agree the pump might have fried, can you see fan speeds, check which fan input and which pump input the cooler is attached to
it looks like the pump is running at 4000rpm and the fan is changing speeds, so assuming that's correct, it should be working as well as it used to
if so, is there any chance you would have made changes in the bios before this?
various options would bring those temps down if they had been changed

personally id want to change the cooler regardless, its getting old they dont live long anyway, but its nice to know if that is the reason for the temp changes