LG 38GL950G - 3840x1600/G-Sync/144Hz

Soldato
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Out of interest skuko why do you play games in window mode, doesnt it break immersion seeing the close/minimise icons and the blue border?

He plays in fullscreened windowed, so he wouldn't see anything. He just can't get used to the momentary delay and screen flicker as he tabs out of fullscreen games.

I'd say he should just suck it up and deal with the pause, because it seems LG has abandoned the module going forward.
 
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He plays in fullscreened windowed, so he wouldn't see anything. He just can't get used to the momentary delay and screen flicker as he tabs out of fullscreen games.

I'd say he should just suck it up and deal with the pause, because it seems LG has abandoned the module going forward.

yeah it does seem that way. Quite a few ppl are after the business version of the monitor without the module. Suited to gaming and working. It’s weird as the prices for the business one seems to be more now then gaming g synch one.
 
Soldato
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Two problems come to mind:

1.) It's DELL, which means zero gamma controls. If it isn't calibrated right and you have to do it yourself, changing the gamma via software method results in banding, which sucks.

2.) There are two fans in the LG, one in the housing and one in the module itself. DELL would have to also get rid of the inbuilt v2 module fan for this to work.

Cautiously optimistic. I don't know why it is limited to 120Hz if it is GSYNC Ultimate, though? What is up with that?
 
Soldato
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Maybe it won't need a fan if they limit it?

Maybe... but I think that's just being hopeful. If they did that it would be the near perfect monitor for me if they would just allow for gamma controls, lol. That, or the sRGB calibration better be damn perfection.

Oh, that reminds me. The GSYNC module in the LG panel didn't allow for an sRGB mode as far as I recall, which is a dealbreaker if it's here too. Can't stand wide gamut in sRGB colourspace.
 
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Let's not forget that the Dell version will probably have the power brick inside the display so anyone who has a precariously modified monitor mount should approach with caution due to extra weight.

On the Dell timeline it shows the 38" as currently in development and that timeframe extends to Q1 2011 :0 I'm not holding my breath, will proceed to modify the gsync cooling on my 38GL
 
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its very easy the 38gn950 is faster in pixel reponse and has less inputlag and no fan and the gsync competible is just as good. 160hz max which is fine. that 175 was with chroma sub sampling lol.
a dutch review website has just done the measurements.

Do you have a link to the Dutch review? Can they be trusted?

Any other reviews of the GN model?
 
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Hi all.

So I too got very, very annoyed with the whining fan after taking a lot of effort to keep my PC as quiet as possible. I have a few irons in the fire right now and I think my sleuthing can help others that would want to figure out a DIY fix.

First off I managed to find the 4 Pin fan port for the 5-volt PWM fan used by the G-SYNC module. It is a 1.25mm pitch TJC12510 header made by CWB. I can't find any retailers that sell these connectors but I found that the Hirose Connector DF14 series uses almost the exact same design and only lacks the locking clip (FYI: I have yet to receive my connectors so this is still hypothetical, but I'm feeling good about this one).

With the connector issue hopefully out of the way, I found that the fan in our model is the AFB0705MC-00EXW and rated at 0.5A whereas the earlier mentioned AFB0705MC-00F0R replacement seems to be rated at 0.22A. Perhaps this replacement fan is already quieter than the original. I ordered 2 replacements which are arriving tomorrow. I'll report back on that. I've also got a pair 40x10 Noctua fans on the way. Their CFM rating is way lower but they might just move enough air to make this work.

As a backup I have also ordered these 75MM GPU replacement fans which have the same tri-hole mounting screw pattern. The G-SYNC module shroud hole is ~80mm wide so this should still fit ok. The original fan has a 41x41x41mm pattern and this one 40x40x40 but I think a little filing should easily solve this. I'm aware this fan is 12V vs the 5V of the original, but it might work just fine off the 5V. Otherwise I'll tap 12V from the second blower fan.

All my ordered parts should be arriving this Friday, and I'll attempt to install them this weekend. I'll report back with my findings and hopefully a satisfactory solution.
 
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Hi all.

So I too got very, very annoyed with the whining fan after taking a lot of effort to keep my PC as quiet as possible. I have a few irons in the fire right now and I think my sleuthing can help others that would want to figure out a DIY fix.

First off I managed to find the 4 Pin fan port for the 5-volt PWM fan used by the G-SYNC module. It is a 1.25mm pitch TJC12510 header made by CWB. I can't find any retailers that sell these connectors but I found that the Hirose Connector DF14 series uses almost the exact same design and only lacks the locking clip (FYI: I have yet to receive my connectors so this is still hypothetical, but I'm feeling good about this one).

With the connector issue hopefully out of the way, I found that the fan in our model is the AFB0705MC-00EXW and rated at 0.5A whereas the earlier mentioned AFB0705MC-00F0R replacement seems to be rated at 0.22A. Perhaps this replacement fan is already quieter than the original. I ordered 2 replacements which are arriving tomorrow. I'll report back on that. I've also got a pair 40x10 Noctua fans on the way. Their CFM rating is way lower but they might just move enough air to make this work.

As a backup I have also ordered these 75MM GPU replacement fans which have the same tri-hole mounting screw pattern. The G-SYNC module shroud hole is ~80mm wide so this should still fit ok. The original fan has a 41x41x41mm pattern and this one 40x40x40 but I think a little filing should easily solve this. I'm aware this fan is 12V vs the 5V of the original, but it might work just fine off the 5V. Otherwise I'll tap 12V from the second blower fan.

All my ordered parts should be arriving this Friday, and I'll attempt to install them this weekend. I'll report back with my findings and hopefully a satisfactory solution.

Thank you for all this. I'm very annoyed by the noise of my monitor too since my water-cooled PC is very quiet. Please take photos along the way! When I took mine apart I noticed the gsync fan and blower fan had similar but slightly different wiring, I guess that's explained by 5v vs. 12v. I was just reviewing my old pics, making plans, and gathering courage to finally deal with my hissing 38GL fan so I'm looking forward to your progress. About the gsync fan connector, I hadn't looked that closely but isn't it the "mini PWM" found on GPU PCB's for the onboard fans? According to this photo I took the wiring is the same order and colors of the mini-PWM wiring. Where did you find the connector info? Here's a photo of my gsync fan connector below. I can link my album again too.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/zHc7zytACvFL6sx88
 
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With the connector issue hopefully out of the way, I found that the fan in our model is the AFB0705MC-00EXW and rated at 0.5A whereas the earlier mentioned AFB0705MC-00F0R replacement seems to be rated at 0.22A.
I got this fan from mouser (00F0R) and it says 0.5A on fan label. Thanks for doing this, please take a lot of pictures - especially how to open the damn thing, where is the best spot to start prying. I was looking at ebay and there are some internal cables for LG TVs have identical looking connectors, I was thinking of getting one of those and just splicing them.

Edit - deleted the idea about using 12V from the other fan, didn't read your post completely...
 
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Thank you for all this. I'm very annoyed by the noise of my monitor too since my water-cooled PC is very quiet. Please take photos along the way! When I took mine apart I noticed the gsync fan and blower fan had similar but slightly different wiring, I guess that's explained by 5v vs. 12v. I was just reviewing my old pics, making plans, and gathering courage to finally deal with my hissing 38GL fan so I'm looking forward to your progress. About the gsync fan connector, I hadn't looked that closely but isn't it the "mini PWM" found on GPU PCB's for the onboard fans? According to this photo I took the wiring is the same order and colors of the mini-PWM wiring. Where did you find the connector info? Here's a photo of my gsync fan connector below. I can link my album again too.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/zHc7zytACvFL6sx88

Will do! As far as I know the connectors for the 12 & 5V fans are both the same, for me the wiring was just slightly off. However, I didn't compare the two super close. I found the connectors because they have "CWB" stamped in them on the top, however I spent hours scouring the internet before I noticed this little detail. They're not mini PWM connectors for sure. Most GPUs use more common JST connectors, but these are not JST.

I got this fan from mouser (00F0R) and it says 0.5A on fan label. Thanks for doing this, please take a lot of pictures - especially how to open the damn thing, where is the best spot to start prying. I was looking at ebay and there are some internal cables for LG TVs have identical looking connectors, I was thinking of getting one of those and just splicing them.

Yeah, the Mouser replacement fans were equally ****. I took them apart and tried some lubrication for the bearings but no dice. All hope is now on the success of either the 40mm noctuas or the 75mm GPU fan. My money's on the GPU fan as this will be the most non-intrusive fix.

I pried the case open using 2 flathead screwdrivers with a few layers of painters tape wrapped around them to minimize damage. You can start at the 2 little entry holes on either ends of the display's bottom (see attached pic). I worked my way around the edges and top first, then unclipped the bottom. This will take some patience and brute force but make sure you apply that force as gentle as possible. Use the screwdrivers only to get started, after that try to use your fingers so you don't damage the delicate plastic.

i5y1qtJ.jpg
 
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Will do! As far as I know the connectors for the 12 & 5V fans are both the same, for me the wiring was just slightly off. However, I didn't compare the two super close. I found the connectors because they have "CWB" stamped in them on the top, however I spent hours scouring the internet before I noticed this little detail. They're not mini PWM connectors for sure. Most GPUs use more common JST connectors, but these are not JST.



Yeah, the Mouser replacement fans were equally ****. I took them apart and tried some lubrication for the bearings but no dice. All hope is now on the success of either the 40mm noctuas or the 75mm GPU fan. My money's on the GPU fan as this will be the most non-intrusive fix.

I pried the case open using 2 flathead screwdrivers with a few layers of painters tape wrapped around them to minimize damage. You can start at the 2 little entry holes on either ends of the display's bottom (see attached pic). I worked my way around the edges and top first, then unclipped the bottom. This will take some patience and brute force but make sure you apply that force as gentle as possible. Use the screwdrivers only to get started, after that try to use your fingers so you don't damage the delicate plastic.

i5y1qtJ.jpg

Looking forward to your results! If they work I'll order the same fans and connector. Also, if it works and you have an extra connector do you want to sell the spliced fan/connector to me?
 
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Hi all,

So after a whole bunch of tinkering I couldn't resolve this issue in a satisfactory manner. I've gotten really far but without having any control over the PWM fan curve I couldn't make the fans behave the way I wanted and either ended up with a quiet fan that didn't cool enough, or fans that were equally loud as the original.

Here's a small album with all the configurations I've tried and some technical details: https://imgur.com/a/3cx0mXq. I would say that the 40x10mm noctua fans are the best option noise-wise. I'd go for 2 or 3 fans in a line array, then cut a hole in the bottom of the metal cage surrounding the motherboard and have them blow cool air over the GSYNC module (with the shroud & fan removed) in the same way the blower fan on the side of the assembly is setup.

I did not want to make any physical modifications to the display because I'm still in the 30 day return window. I'll be returning this 38GL950 and I placed a new order for the 38GN950-B which is essentially the same display minus the GSYNC module making it fanless.
 
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Hi all,

So after a whole bunch of tinkering I couldn't resolve this issue in a satisfactory manner. I've gotten really far but without having any control over the PWM fan curve I couldn't make the fans behave the way I wanted and either ended up with a quiet fan that didn't cool enough, or fans that were equally loud as the original.

Here's a small album with all the configurations I've tried and some technical details: https://imgur.com/a/3cx0mXq. I would say that the 40x10mm noctua fans are the best option noise-wise. I'd go for 2 or 3 fans in a line array, then cut a hole in the bottom of the metal cage surrounding the motherboard and have them blow cool air over the GSYNC module (with the shroud & fan removed) in the same way the blower fan on the side of the assembly is setup.

I did not want to make any physical modifications to the display because I'm still in the 30 day return window. I'll be returning this 38GL950 and I placed a new order for the 38GN950-B which is essentially the same display minus the GSYNC module making it fanless.

Thanks for the detailed post. If you're in the US you can buy a 38GN from costco.com for $1400 right now.
 
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Thanks for the detailed post. If you're in the US you can buy a 38GN from costco.com for $1400 right now.

Hey, thanks for the heads up! I don't have a costco card so I ordered the business version of this one at provantage: https://www.provantage.com/lg-electronics-38gn95b~7LGEL0NC.htm. Only 95$ more than the costco deal but is the exact same display and comes with 3 years warranty (vs 1) and just has some different power consumption related default settings that can be changed from the OSD.
 
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