Had my 48" C1 for about a week now and its been great, upgraded from a 43" not had any issues so far need to get a deeper desk ideally that's on the list of things to do when can get to Ikea to get some alex drawers.
Running it on a 2080ti but ordered a dongle that will take display port to 2.1 HDMI for 120Mhz 4K refreshrate
I'm wondering about the HDMI DP adapter as well. As far as I know, those handle pretty much everything but VRR. My 2070S is the limiting factor here as well, running at UHD60, RGB, 8bit, dynamic output.
I've had the screen for roughly a month now and just LOVE it! Coming from a iiyama ProLite X4071UHSU-B1 the size difference between 40" and 48" wasn't overwhelming but rather welcome.
Now browser scaling has become even better going <100%.
Somebody mentioned a FITUEYES TV stand and I went with a 32 to 65" version to have more wiggle room, worked for the 40 as well as it did for the 48". I kept the 40" in the setup but was silly enough to turn it sideways.
Yes, that's massive.
Luckily my desk is as well. It's a custom wooden plate, actually two because I had to split the length, at 200 + 80cm by 90cm depth on the usual IKEA Alex containers.
The stand's pushed almost all the way back and I measured roughly 85cm viewing distance, which works nicely for me.
Settings-wise I haven't done a whole lot, put it into gaming mode, set the input to PC, deep colour mode and I believe I changed the OLED brightness.
Brightness OLED pixel 75
Contrast 85 (default?)
Screen brightness 50 (default?)
I turned off energy savings and that annoying auto-off after 4 hours thing.
Since I've been looking at getting an OLED as a monitor I've been looking a things since 2019 or so, had previously bought a 65E7 in 2018 and just loved it.
It's great for streaming or console use but just too much to be put on a desk.
So over time I've adapted and trained my behaviour to see if things are working out as they should reliably.
Blank screensaver after 2 minutes. powercfg /requests became my friend. The weirdest stuff caused video locks.
Blank wallpaper.
Autohotkey script to minimize the recent window without breaking my fingers or having to use a second hand.
Code:
^+d::
WinMinimize, A
return
And eventually I moved the task bar on screen #2, works nicely on the 40", not so much on the previous 28". It was just too small. I'm dreading Windows 11 for this bit.
Turning on the C1 before the PC keeps the task bar in place. The 40" via DP resumes from standby, shows the boot screen etc, then the C1 takes over for the Windows login.
I really wish there was a way to configure the GPU to just accept HDMI as input 1 instead of giving DP a priority.
When I don't need a window, I just minimize it. YT and Tweeten usually take up the second screen, get replaced with whatever I need.
Outlook and what not are moved around on the taskbar and come up and vanish by hitting WIN 3 or 0 or whatever place I set them to.
MS Powertoys with FancyZones is a IMO mandatory.
Monitor Keeper seems to work, but I'm not 100% sure.
https://github.com/hunkydoryrepair/MonitorKeeper/releases Seems to do more than that Lenovo monitor tool.
Dark mode everywhere is a given. I've now installed Dark Reader in most browser profiles.
Power use isn't too bad at all. With a blank black screen the 48C1 sits at 40W, dipping to 38 - when hitting a different power mode? ABL/ASBL?
Sadly that is a thing. I keep noticing it when writing in docs for longer periods. The screen REALLY dims down.
I was surprised to see my power meter spike at 130+W when I had PDFs with light backgrounds open
Playing WoW I remained in the 60-70W range in Shadowlands.
Hell, I've had a HP Omen X35 before and that thing ate more after being turned off for 20+minutes. Yay, Gsync modules!
Had a power meter running for a week or two because I was curious, then my anxiety about having a glass of water next to an open extension chord on the table got the best of me.
At the moment I'm mainly playing WoW and could swear it's dimming down there as well. Moving the ingame brightness of the client from 50 to 55 helped.
New World and Mass Effect Legendary Edition looked great as well.
You do get used to the OLED wow effect after a while, but then I catch myself coming back into the room just quickly enough before the screen saver kicks in, WoW open, and the beauty of the colours and contrast hit me again.
I probably would have gotten the C1 later but was lucky enough to find a C19 on eBay for roughly 1130 EUR after vouchers and cashback stuff, just really couldn't say no to that.
So now EVGA just has to hurry up, I've been in StepUp waiting hell for my 3080 for nine months. Things do not move at for the EU market.
If only I had pre-ordered the FTW3 for 899 EUR without assuming a WTH that's 50 above MSRP stance, or not bought a 2070S to start the StepUp process because I thought this was a sure "quick" way of getting the card at MSRP.
Is there a proper solution for the remote control overlap issues? The C1 and E7 are in the same room. I've changed device IDs but they still turn on and off all the same.
Playing peekaboo while giving the other one attention seems to help. C'mon, really? O.o
Oh right, as far as burn in goes, I've been afraid since before getting the 65E7 because I kept hearing about it again and again from pretty much everywhere.
Meanwhile years in with mainly TV shows and movies plus daily Animal Crossing playtime in, I haven't noticed anything, and that's on an old 2017 model OLED.
Reading about how things improved over the years, Redditors writing they've been playing WoW and whatever else for years without running into it, it's become more of a meh whatever.
Pixel Shift has become noticeable. I normally have a notepad in the bottom left corner and from time to time the cursor or even half a letter on the left side are gone because the screen content has shifted.
I forgot to look at how the pixel density is but they tricked me! They got me in their trap and the picture they shown was too sharp and clean... I hate myself.
