*****My WOT4 MK2 Nitro RC Plane Assembly Log****

[Magic_x_uk]

I have a wot 4 in my garage roof, I have flown rc planes and helis for 8 years or so now. One of the threads i posted my 'hanger'

Great planes, most of chris foss's are.

My wot 4 the wings are so strong, think it has a 2 stroke 60 in it, also ran it for some time on a tuned pipe. Very good performance.

Enjoy.

Also after reading through your thread I get the idea you dont yet fly?

Join a club a BMFA club, and learn, have someone experianced take your plane out on maiden flight. I have been flying 8 years and I get nervous test flying a new plane even now, especially with all the money invested in it. Some of my models have up to £1.5k in them. yet they are still middle of the road models.

Seriously, unless I have mis-understood your thread. I get the impression you have not flown before?? sorry if I am wrong on that.

Even simple things like pinning your hinges, fuel tube over control clevises (for safety) in case they let go, so they still hold on. Nylon undercarriage screws and bolts, Prop on correct and BALANCED, engine tuned at idle and at warm and inverted. C of G perfect, little tail heave is always okay. Wings balanced. Wings joined well and epoxy in all the right places. No binding of control surfaces. Fuel tank plumbed in correctly, no kinks.

God I could go on. I do not mean to sound like I am telling you to 'suck eggs' but you must 110% know what you are doing. Even starting the engine, the prop can cut your fingers off! let alone before you take off,

Do a range check, any interference?
aerial routed okay?

What would you do in the event of a 'dead stick'


Please join a club, have a instructor/safety guy check and maiden your plane, even on a buddy system if you want. At least you will know if you have built it well.

Anyhow....Enjoy

 

[Magic_x_uk]

That last plane by Pete Tindall was HUGE!!!

hmmmm some of his (PT) control linkages leave a lot to be desired!

 

[HAz]

lol could a child fly in that thing? i think so.

 

[Magic_x_uk]

lol could a child fly in that thing? i think so.

No, it would screw up the C of G

 

[DJMK4]

Mounted the engine to the bulk head tonight, had to drll some holes in to the engine mounts, iv also fitted the throttle link tube (not shown in pic) and hopefully tonight then throttle control rod will also be installed.

 

[kefkef]

Make sure you use thread lock on your engine mounts, wouldn't want them vibrating loose........

 

[DJMK4]

Whats thread lock :S lol, iv just used whats come with the plane, the mounts are bolted to the bolkhead by nuts, there are bolts embedded in to the wood on the bulkhead.

The actual engine is mounted to the 2 plastic mounts, by using nuts, bolts, washers

 

[Phate]

Make sure you balance the plane correctly to!

 

[Phate]

Whats thread lock :S lol, iv just used whats come with the plane, the mounts are bolted to the bolkhead by nuts, there are bolts embedded in to the wood on the bulkhead.

The actual engine is mounted to the 2 plastic mounts, by using nuts, bolts, washers

Thread lock = Loctite!


It's blue, will basically glue the screws in, so they won't vibrate loose but not enough incase you ever need to undo it!

 

[DJMK4]

Cool, I will look in to the threadlock, thanks.

And dont worry phate, im going to be balancing the plane what do you take me for?

 

[Phate]

Cool, I will look in to the threadlock, thanks.

And dont worry phate, im going to be balancing the plane what do you take me for?

You'll be surprised the amount of people who forget this.

 

[Malt_Vinegar]

Any updates?

 

[DJMK4]

Yep, sorry there is a few, going to do abit of a writeup tonight.

Im still having problems re-attaching my elevators after correcting the bar twist. Im going to have to cut new hinge slots in the elevator and tailplane and fit new hidges, there could be a risk of it not working.

I managed to get the throttle tube installed and the throttle control rod, I centered the throttle servo but had to reverse it on my control (this is normal) as with the throttle control stick at the bottom, the throttle on the engine was open (which is the reverse of what I wanted) so a quick setting was changed on my radio so now with the throttle control stick at the bottom, the throttle is now closed.

Tonight I need to continue fitting the control rod and come up with a solution to put some sort of stopper on the rod so it threads through the throttle lever on the engine and holds it securely.

Also going to finish off the fuel tank later hopefully, pics to follow.

 

[Malt_Vinegar]

get some pics of the problems, im sure the collective experience on here can help

 

[DJMK4]

Iv posted it on another forum, ill re-post here, 2 secs

 

[DJMK4]

Problem

Well looks like im going to have to order replacement parts from ripmax dont know if i mentioned this, but i had a problem with elevator alignment, there was a twist in the bar, which meant i had to remove the elevators, cut the hindges out, correct bar twist and re-install, problem is I couldnt remove the old hinges from the slots when they were glued in, i used debonder but the old hinges are still stuck in the slots meaning I cant install new ones. the slots are looking kinda shabby now because I have tried removing them, the tail plane slots are not damaged as such but the hindges are still stuck in the slots.

The elevator slots are slightly worse for wear.

Here is the pic

Suggested Solution
Two ways, first the easy one:

1. If you can't get the old hinges out just cut them off flush with the tailplane and the elevator. Then cut yourself some new slots - away from the old ones - and install new hinges. With a bit of care, once its all together no one but you will ever know! You can buy new mylar hinges (or mylar strip to cut them from) from any decent hobby shop and it only costs "buttons"! In the old days I didn't even buy the mylar (had no money when I was a student!) so I used to use the plastic stuff they made floppy discs from after roughing it up with a bit of wire wool!

When fitting the new hinges just make a neat slit in the tailplane (away from the first attempt slits) with a sharp knife, then drill a 1mm hole at the centre of the slit. Put a dressmakers pin in the centre of your hinge (at right angles to the plane of the hinge) then insert the hinge in the slit - right upto the pin. Next make a matching slit in the elevator - again drill a 1mm hole in the centre of the slit. Put say two hinges each side (left and right). Then assemble the elevator to the tailplane - being careful to check that the hinges are more or less half in the elevator and half in the tailplane (that's one of the reasons for the pin). Push the two parts together - so trapping the pins in the hinges. Now remove the pins - but don't close the gap they created (that's the second reason for the pin). Carefully bend back the elevator and put two or three drops (not more) of cyno onto the bit of hinge material you can see. This cyno will "wick" into the slit - using the 1mm hole you drilled - and will fix the hinges. Turn the tailplane and elevator over and do the same on the other side. Give the whole thing a couple of minutes to settle, then work the elevator up and down just incase any cyno got to where it shouldn't. Result - instant hinged elevator! Much better than using epoxy.

2. If the elevator is really, really chewed up - and it doesn't look it, but if it is, just use it as a "pattern" to make another new one. This second method needs a bit more work. Get some suitable thickness balsa from a model shop, draw round the existing elevator and cut out. The new elevator will be a little bit oversize - because of the drawing around - so just gently sand it until it exactly matches the old one. When you are at the model shop buying the balsa buy 1m of white Solarfilm off the roll at the same time. For instructions on how to apply the Solarfilm just go to Solarfilm's website - they have two excellent videos there that show you how to do it. Don't worry about having a special iron like in the video for this job, just borrow the household iron - but be careful to set the temperature right using the technique they show in the video.

I'd try method one first if I were you - then if that doesn't work - e.g. you cant find enough tailplane/elevator area for new slits - then use method two. Either of these will get you sorted at a fraction of the cost/time of trying to get spares! Aeromodellers tend to be very proud of their ability to repair stuff without using spares - its part of the fun. And its how you start to get more interested in building more complex models!

Good luck - any questions, just ask!

BEB

 

[Malt_Vinegar]

Yer, sliding in new hinges is pretty easy

Looking at where the holes are it would be very simple to drop in new ones, you could even use three if you are worried about the security of them.

On some models, I would just cut slits with scapel, and slide in home made hinges from whatever crud I had lying around spare and seal with a bit of cyno. Never had any issues with losing control surfaces If you buy proper hinges (they are cheap!), then it will be even more of a doddle!

Bloke above pretty much covered it though!

 

[DJMK4]

Got two types of hinges, nylon cyano hinges and plastic hinges, so will see how I go.

Just done abit more on the fuel tank since I got back

I have 3 pipes on the tank

1) Carb line which obviously goes to carb
2) Vent link which is just a tube in the tank bending upwards, then a tube will lead to the exhaust
3) Fill tube, just a straight pipe in to the tank, ill have some rubber tubing on the outside of the tank attached to this line, then I got to think of a way to stop it, ill probably use a stopper or something but the tube is really small so not sure just a stopper will suffice, maybe a tap will be better with an input and an output. the output connected to the tube in to the tank, then I can attach my pump to the input when im filling, then when not in use I can close the tap.

Would this be the easiest/best option?

Filter wise I have 3 filters, one will go on the pump when im filling, the other will be from the tanks carb line inbetween the tank and the carb and one as a spare for my box.

PS Malt, it doesnt say to filter anywhere (the instructions are very basic! lol) I think people have their own opinions about filtering, some filter between the pump and the tank, some filter there and between the tank and the carb.

Just dont want anything getting in to the carb, if something makes it through the filter on the pump it could get into the carb and clog it up.

 

[Malt_Vinegar]

I used to just use a screw and push it into the tube

Do the instructions tell you to put a filter between the tank and carb? I have never seen that. If the fuel is filtered before it goes in the tank, no need really? It could give you fuel supply issues with that extra resistance in the system.

 

[DJMK4]

Update coming soon