*** Official Ubiquiti Discussion Thread ***

[n30_mkii]

How thick are the walls? If it’s genuinely only temporary them I’d buy a 50m flat Ethernet cable and run it outside, passing it under the window openings. Cheaper and much more effective.

Walls are very thick 0.5 - 1m, I dont think ill be able to run a cable due to the layout of the property hence looking at wireless options. I'll do some more digging but suspect the udm + wireless meshed ap will be my only option. I'll do some reading on which ones will give me what I need

 

[RockLobster]

Guys for 5G are you using VHT40 or VHT80? Are you using auto power? And are you setting your channel numbers?

 

[b0rn2sk8]

Guys for 5G are you using VHT40 or VHT80? Are you using auto power? And are you setting your channel numbers?

I left all those settings at default and it’s worked flawlessly since setting it up.

 

[ChrisD.]

I left all those settings at default and it’s worked flawlessly since setting it up.

Same.

 

[WJA96]

For the small extra expense I always use MikroTik Wireless Wire now. Full 1 or 2Gbps connection makes a massive difference with building links because it’s usually more than one user.

 

[RockLobster]

I left all those settings at default and it’s worked flawlessly since setting it up.

Same.

What are the default settings? I can't remember.

 

[doodah]

VHT20 for 2.4 and VHT40 for 5.0 if I remember correctly, seen some guides suggest going up to 80 for 5.0 if you're having certain issues.

 

[RockLobster]

Thanks

 

[Mattus]

Guys for 5G are you using VHT40 or VHT80? Are you using auto power? And are you setting your channel numbers?

VHT80 in theory doubles the maximum speed (866Mbps vs 433Mbps, although you won't see either of those in practice), but VHT80 is more vulnerable to interference. If you don't need more speed then VHT40 may give a more reliable connection and slightly better range. Worth experimenting.

I think auto power just uses the max power setting. The recommendation I've seen is medium power for 2.4Ghz and high power for 5Ghz.

You can set the channel to one with low interference, based on the RF scan in the controller. It's less of a problem with 5Ghz networks though, as the signal doesn't travel as far. I live in a flat and 2.4Ghz wi-fi is virtually unusable due to the number of competing networks, but 5GHz is fine.

 

[WJA96]

Walls are very thick 0.5 - 1m, I dont think ill be able to run a cable due to the layout of the property hence looking at wireless options. I'll do some more digging but suspect the udm + wireless meshed ap will be my only option. I'll do some reading on which ones will give me what I need

No wireless system will go through walls that thick without some loss of signal. If it’s only temporary then just run a temporary cable outside by putting a flat Ethernet cable under the window and shutting the window. It will be fine for 6 months.

 

[doodah]

Kitchen AP finally hooked up via ethernet and I finally have WiFi in the garden. Now to tidy up my janky trunking.

 

[southy1978]

Ordered & installed 2 UAP-NanoHD Ap's to replace a dying asus ac-rt68u. Really impressed with the coverage & the ease of install. The controller software is running on a VM on my dedi.

Went on a tired reading spree about the unifi equipment and was really iimpressed with the look of the UDM-Pro. Consequently have one of those on the way now!

I currently have a netgear managed switch (GS110EMX) would i be good to use this with the UDM? I'm guessing i just won't see any devices plugged into the netgear switch on the topology map and lose control options in the controller for them?

 

[WJA96]

The UDM-Pro is truly an awful device. It’s a bizarre combination of bits that don’t actually fully meet anyone’s requirements and it’s generally agreed that it doesn’t work properly.

And yes, any clients plugged into the non-UniFi switch will just appear to be plugged into a port on the UDM. Any VLANs tags etc. will have to be added to the Netgear switch manually but they will work.

 

[doodah]

Threat Management Alert 2: Misc Attack. Signature ET TOR Known Tor Relay/Router

This keeps popping up every minute in my controller unread alerts. Should I be worried, it seems it's my HTPC which is seemingly doing nothing at the moment.

Edit - it's popping up several times a minute.

 

[Yaayuh!]

This keeps popping up every minute in my controller unread alerts. Should I be worried, it seems it's my HTPC which is seemingly doing nothing at the moment.

Edit - it's popping up several times a minute.

Do you or anyone on your network use TOR or other VPN browsers? Maybe from your HTPC, when you browse for Blu-ray torrents?

 

[doodah]

Funnily enough, I don't use a TOR browser nor a VPN .

 

[WJA96]

Funnily enough, I don't use a TOR browser nor a VPN . That I know of.

Fixed that for you.

 

[ShivP]

Hi guys

I am new to the Ubiquiti game and looking for some advice

I have just got 2x UAP AC Pro from the MM, to replace my current RT AC87U WiFi. I am also going to replace the AC87U probably with a Ubiquiti router of some point, I guess it will have to be a USG as they are reasonably priced
I have heard of these 'cloudkey', do I need one of those?
Essentially it will be a USG, an Outdoor+ (which I already have) and the 2x UAP AC Pro's

Thanks

 

[RockLobster]

Yes you will need a USG. You don't need a cloudkey as you can run a controller on your laptop or even a Raspberry Pi but they are good as they are just plug and play.

 

[ShivP]

Yes you will need a USG. You don't need a cloudkey as you can run a controller on your laptop or even a Raspberry Pi but they are good as they are just plug and play. I'm looking to sell mine soon (USG and CloudKey) as I've upgraded to the UDM.

Any benefits then of having the cloud key over running the controller on a PC?
Let me know if you put them up for sale on the MM!