Road Cycling

Jonny ///M · 19 Oct 2020 at 19:24

Is that a bb86 to BB30 bearing?

SoliD · 19 Oct 2020 at 21:13

Jonny ///M said:
Is that a bb86 to BB30 bearing?

4130 rotor. Housing completely sheared. Sounded awful had a look could see something wasn't quite right and it came apart like that.

The left bit should be on the right the opposite way round. I'll get some more pictures tomorrow. Glad I didn't pay full price as its the ceramic bb too.

Jonny ///M · 19 Oct 2020 at 22:25

Aye that's what I was trying to remember. 41mm BB86 to BB30.

They aren't a very good solution, I've got a wheelsmfg one in the shop as I thought they were a pair at £45 but that is each!!

SoliD · 19 Oct 2020 at 22:49

Luckily I got one last week for my race canyon then remembered its a gxp. Good job I kept it.

Great eye to spot that though.

Jonny ///M · 19 Oct 2020 at 22:50

Stick a Shimano bb and crank in there

SoliD · 20 Oct 2020 at 02:32

Bit more expensive than another bb as it's a sram red with quarq dzero pm currently.

Jonny ///M · 20 Oct 2020 at 08:16

Haha good shout mate. Is that the left hand cup?

Wonder if it's due to the loads placed on the inner race due to the way gxp works.

SoliD · 20 Oct 2020 at 10:10

nah driveside. that one is the 30mm spindle, the other Canyon is GXP.

Roadrunner_668 · 20 Oct 2020 at 12:06

is that a wheel bearing ?

Roady · 20 Oct 2020 at 12:39

AndyCr15 said:
I'm forever looking down at my rear tyre while riding, wondering if it feels a little low, worried I'll get another pinch flat. This just means I can see all the time what both pressures are. It's not to tell me if I actually have a flat...

Also, twice in the last month my front seems to have dropped to about 40psi, but most times it seems fine. I don't really get what's happening. Is it a slow puncture, is something happening at some point to drop a load of air? This will make it easier to see what's happening.

RRP is £200.

Pinch flat paranoia! Another good reason to go Tubeless on a road bike....

To be fair, as you're 'only' a road rider, relatively new to cycling and had a few issues then just go towards the higher range of pressures. It'll reduce the worry, you'll obviously experience a little less comfort (or a lot depending on your undercarriage), but will gain quite a bit more confidence and trust in your wheels/tyres as they're just feel harder too. It's probably worth the trade off for you at this point.

I remember the DCR review on the Tyrewiz. Great little gadget, crazy high price, but hard to justify for most of us. I'll pick some up when they auto-inflate the tyre to a set pressure. Or auto-detect the surfaces you're riding on and somehow change pressures on the fly as you ride to compensate. Don't some 4x4's do that already? I think some of the top end cars can auto inflate? Smart tyres on bikes, anyone?!

Jonny ///M said:
It will be going on my felt with the shimano chainset rather than any of the Cannondale I'll be riding.

To be fair when I was looking at alternatives to the £600-700 PWM, then changing BB and cranks for ~£200-250 was a no brainer as it opened up the cheaper crank arm PWM options. Now I'm on Shimano R8000 cranks I don't think I want to ride anything else (having previously ridden FSA Gossamer, Praxis Zayante and several versions of earlier Shimano 105). To me it just feels totally stiff, solid and is incredibly light compared to the others. For not crazy prices.

SoliD said:
Er, I don't think this should be like that....Epic fail.

Doh! Damn thats a fair crack. Quite surprised it would crack the outer race like that rather than the balls or just wearing the balls and races. But I guess it's the pressure of it which cracks it (no space to bend) before things wear away enough to relieve things...

SoliD said:
Glad I didn't pay full price as its the ceramic bb too.

That's a ceramic bearing? Doesn't look it (not that I've seen or pulled one apart).

Jonny ///M said:
Haha good shout mate. Is that the left hand cup?

Wonder if it's due to the loads placed on the inner race due to the way gxp works.

Does the NDS bearing in GXP take lateral loads from both sides as it's 'fixed' in place? Think that's what the Praxis did, for me it just wore out the NDS bearings quite quick, while the DS was totally fine.

Roadrunner_668 said:
is that a wheel bearing ?

BB bearing. Clue is in the size, wheel bearings are quite a bit smaller and have quite a bit thinner races with smaller balls all crammed together (and @SoliD would have to have tiny weeny hands!)

BB sizes mentioned afterwards the main giveaways - BB86, BB30 & GXP are all BB standards.

Roadrunner_668 · 20 Oct 2020 at 13:08

oh right ok, gets just as much work as a wheel bearing though i suppose !

Roady · 20 Oct 2020 at 14:24

Roadrunner_668 said:
oh right ok, gets just as much work as a wheel bearing though i suppose !

Depend what you mean by 'work'! Could argue they get far more and have a harder life! More flex, more lateral movement and more ingress. Poor things!

SoliD · 20 Oct 2020 at 14:44

Roady said:
Depend what you mean by 'work'! Could argue they get far more and have a harder life! More flex, more lateral movement and more ingress. Poor things!

And then you get a cx bike bearing.....more ingress than the titanic...

NoNameNoNumber · 20 Oct 2020 at 16:26

Jonny ///M said:
What sizes did you get off the bearings?

Loads of brands use different sizes for different sized frames. 1 1/4"(47mm IS47) on smaller bikes and 1 1/2"(52mm IS52) on larger bikes.

Specialized are one of the only brands that use 1 3/8"(49mm IS49).

https://www.airevelobearings.com/product/specialized-s-works-tarmac-headset-kit/

Bottom bearing OD

Bottom bearing ID

Top bearing OD

Top Bearing ID

The step on the bottom bearing is bizarre, never seen a bearing like it.

Roadrunner_668 · 20 Oct 2020 at 17:37

I suppose so! impressively ovalled lol

Roadrunner_668 · 20 Oct 2020 at 17:38

oh its different bearings and I cant read sorry

Jonny ///M · 20 Oct 2020 at 17:42

Does the headtube have a chamfer on the inside once you've got those cups out?

NoNameNoNumber · 20 Oct 2020 at 18:26

Jonny ///M said:
Does the headtube have a chamfer on the inside once you've got those cups out?

Not sure, you thinking of using a different bearing without the lip? I can't see an issue with that if there's a shoulder internally for it to sit on but if there is it begs the question why they would make a fancy bearing.

Jonny ///M · 20 Oct 2020 at 20:01

If there's a chamfer inside then you're looking at IS49 1" 3/8 on the bottom and IS42 on the top. New crown race supplied with it to suit the 45 degree chamfer rather than the rounded shape you have for the ball bearing. The top could well be an IS41 usually you'd be under 41mm rather than over and closer to 42mm.

A few bikes come with the style you have with a loose caged ball bearing in it. Knock the cups out and fit an integrated cartridge bearing is an upgrade. The semi integrated/zero stack style you have doesn't really have a size you have as a standard. Usually ZS44 for 1 1/8 and ZS55/56 for 1 1/2". There's a ZS52 which is rare as ****. Never came across ZS49.

All the numbers are milimeters.

It probabaly saves them a dollar per frame or something. Don't apply logic to the bike industry or else we would have bikes at £3k with wheels actually worth riding, bearings that last more than a season in the UK and proper sized bolt heads instead of 2/3mm shallow allen heads that are 100% going to seize after a winter up here in the North.

GSVBagpuss · 20 Oct 2020 at 20:54

Just replaced my rear mech cable and it won’t shift into the largest 2 sprockets - does that mean the cable isn’t taught enough?