Road Cycling

Soldato
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If it did it before then yes.

Set the tension in the smallest cog on the back. Make sure you click on the upshift paddle all the way, not just when the chain drops into it.

Wind barrel adjuster fully in then wind it out a turn. Undo cable clamp, pull it tight sometimes through the wheel is easier if it's a shadow mech. Check it's tight enough by shifting down a gear, if it goes then check the next two down shifts. In the 3rd or 4th cog from the bottom that is where I'd adjust the barrel adjuster if it isn't quite sitting in the gear. Turn it the direction you want the chain to go.
 
Soldato
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To be fair, as you're 'only' a road rider, relatively new to cycling and had a few issues then just go towards the higher range of pressures.

Yeah, for sure. And this is why I like these monitors. I don't think I could tell the difference between 110 and 80 by squeezing the tyre, so other than pumping them up before each ride... how would I know. With these I can visually check in black and white, each time I set out, that I'm on a high enough pressure :) I watched the DC Rainmaker video too. As said, the price is the issue, not the tech. I think if they were £80, they'd be a reasonable buy. So for £100, I was happy enough to give them a go.
 
Soldato
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Bottom bearing OD
g92PGIol.jpg

Bottom bearing ID
i6p5fQLl.jpg

Top bearing OD
vP2cITwl.jpg

Top Bearing ID
Hwm8WY9l.jpg

The step on the bottom bearing is bizarre, never seen a bearing like it.

iZhqOdLl.jpg
Mmmmmmm. I like bearings. Such a great engineering marvel! But then I am a little OCD and something like a bearing just feels and looks so 'perfect'! :D

Need to get myself some digital verniers. Old ones with a dial on them where not great. Anyone got suggestions/recommendations without breaking the bank? £20/30 kinda range?

It probabaly saves them a dollar per frame or something. Don't apply logic to the bike industry or else we would have bikes at £3k with wheels actually worth riding, bearings that last more than a season in the UK and proper sized bolt heads instead of 2/3mm shallow allen heads that are 100% going to seize after a winter up here in the North.
You're turning into @xdcx ... :p

Have you reached an 'upper age bracket' like me? Have to scroll quite a way now when filling in my DOB...

If it did it before then yes.

Set the tension in the smallest cog on the back. Make sure you click on the upshift paddle all the way, not just when the chain drops into it.

Wind barrel adjuster fully in then wind it out a turn. Undo cable clamp, pull it tight sometimes through the wheel is easier if it's a shadow mech. Check it's tight enough by shifting down a gear, if it goes then check the next two down shifts. In the 3rd or 4th cog from the bottom that is where I'd adjust the barrel adjuster if it isn't quite sitting in the gear. Turn it the direction you want the chain to go.
Perfect technique. The little tip about the barrel adjuster is something I need to remember! :rolleyes:

Yeah, for sure. And this is why I like these monitors. I don't think I could tell the difference between 110 and 80 by squeezing the tyre, so other than pumping them up before each ride... how would I know. With these I can visually check in black and white, each time I set out, that I'm on a high enough pressure :) I watched the DC Rainmaker video too. As said, the price is the issue, not the tech. I think if they were £80, they'd be a reasonable buy. So for £100, I was happy enough to give them a go.
I could easily tell the difference between 110 and 80 PSI. At least on a 25/28/32mm tyre anyway! 110 feels hard as hell and 80 feels like more towards what I'd want to ride...! My 32mm's max pressure isn't even over 80 PSI (72) lol ;)

It all comes from experience, so totally get where you're coming from, but I would say also don't 'just' use the tyrewiz. Also squeeze tyres yourself, get some familiarity with how a 'good' tyre feels and then how a 'bad' or slightly dropped/slightly harder tyre feels. Else you won't get the experience/knack...! :)
 
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Soldato
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@Roady is 32 old?

Another example today. Mate drops his Ridley cross bike in with a R7020 groupset to be fitted.

Quickly got the absolutely **** sram off it pronto, went to route hosed and noticed post mount bike but flat mount calipers. Getting a closer look I realised it was a flat mount bolt thru fork with a post mount qr rear end. Pick a standard for ***** sake.

Having to order an RS785 caliper to fit the rear. BB supplied doesn't fit the frame either as shimano don't acknowledge the existence of PF30 - for good reason to be honest.
 
Soldato
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@Roady is 32 old?

Another example today. Mate drops his Ridley cross bike in with a R7020 groupset to be fitted.

Quickly got the absolutely **** sram off it pronto, went to route hosed and noticed post mount bike but flat mount calipers. Getting a closer look I realised it was a flat mount bolt thru fork with a post mount qr rear end. Pick a standard for ***** sake.

Having to order an RS785 caliper to fit the rear. BB supplied doesn't fit the frame either as shimano don't acknowledge the existence of PF30 - for good reason to be honest.
Ridley are a nightmare. Stuck with the qr rear wheel for a while with bolt thru front on the cx bikes because it made rear wheel changes quicker apparently. Didn't know of the different brake mounts though. Soundsike a Friday afternoon build.
 
Soldato
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Just the way it goes, probabaly easier to change a fork mold rather than a frame mold.


It's always about price in my eyes.

The speed release on Cannondale are a good solution but I'd still say qr are faster. The sram 1x mechs mate it hard regardless axle style.
 
Soldato
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@Roady is 32 old?

Another example today. Mate drops his Ridley cross bike in with a R7020 groupset to be fitted.

Quickly got the absolutely **** sram off it pronto, went to route hosed and noticed post mount bike but flat mount calipers. Getting a closer look I realised it was a flat mount bolt thru fork with a post mount qr rear end. Pick a standard for ***** sake.

Having to order an RS785 caliper to fit the rear. BB supplied doesn't fit the frame either as shimano don't acknowledge the existence of PF30 - for good reason to be honest.
Haha what a nightmare. Crazy when you consider that's Ridley and they're not exactly a small brand... Really shouldn't happen in this day an age should it! But then we know the cycle industry is stuck in the past. So isn't that a 'traditional' problem? Differing standards. :rolleyes:

Old frame maybe? Did it have a new fork at some point? Can't think why they'd mix up post & flat mount. The axle difference at least has some weird (non)sense behind it!

The speed release on Cannondale are a good solution but I'd still say qr are faster. The sram 1x mechs mate it hard regardless axle style.
I'm not aware of the Cannondale one. I'm still on the 'old' type of thru-axle where the handles stay on the axle! Never had a problem with it... Another example of changing something that isn't broken!? :D

Same age as me @Jonny ///M - can confirm: OLD.
:p
Young whippersnappers! I was the big 4.0. this year. Can confirm 'upper age bracket'. :o
 
Soldato
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Frame isn't that old to be honest, can't remember the year he got it. It's a fancy orange one lol.

Cannondale use an axle with a smaller diameter about 20mm in. You undo it a few turns and the wheel will come out. Non drive dropout is a small slot into a bigger hole.

Putting it back in is fast as it's a twin lead thread too.

https://youtu.be/42UhGHm6k9U
 
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Interesting, I've always called it a sandbrown cos thats what my uncle called it, but google shows nothing.

its like a reflective strip that you put over your shoulder and it has the shape of a three point seatbelt across your body front and back, and is yellow fluorescent. Usually used years ago for motorcyclists...
 
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Interesting, I've always called it a sandbrown cos thats what my uncle called it, but google shows nothing.

its like a reflective strip that you put over your shoulder and it has the shape of a three point seatbelt across your body front and back, and is yellow fluorescent. Usually used years ago for motorcyclists...

Sam Browne belt?
 
Soldato
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Cannondale use an axle with a smaller diameter about 20mm in. You undo it a few turns and the wheel will come out. Non drive dropout is a small slot into a bigger hole.

Putting it back in is fast as it's a twin lead thread too.

https://youtu.be/42UhGHm6k9U
It's neat but to me all that is, is a QR with a screw end. I bet the dropout bit wears as they get older due to all the extra clamping force. Think Mavic do one very similar too. Yay more standards. Even worse this time, they'll limit you as they're built into the ***ing frame! :mad::eek::rolleyes:

Rapha winter range coming out. All nice dark shades that you’d struggle to see even in the day. :rolleyes:
Rapha have always been about dark colours. Bit annoying that it's only the Pro Team kinda stuff which has more colours, the lower range 'Classic' and 'Core' stuff which you'll actually more likely be riding more in the winter/dark seasons is less colour and less visible. :rolleyes:

I actually love the Brevet stuff, even better some of it is high viz and reflective. But then as it's Brevet it's 300% the price!

bet there isnt even fluorescent bits on them is there

silly.
Rapha have hardly ever done reflective or fluo. Although they're my brand of choice for most warmer/summer kit, for the winter I've generally gone with Sportful / Castelli / DHB kit. A few more options when it comes to colour. Even the autumns when I'm wearing more Rapha, I'm generally wearing an outer layer which isn't and they are generally brighter/reflective.

I love a Gilet. Castelli's Gabba ones are ideal as they have reflective piping and can come in fluo. The Blue fawsome I have is a good bright blue too. Current one used to be called the Perfetto 2 but it's now a 'Perfetto RoS' (and around twice the price I've had mine for). With a bright gilet I really don't have to buy colourful thermal jerseys (not that there are many!). DHB 'roubaix' types can be colourful, but I generally go for a windblock/windslam in the winter which are generally black.

To be fair I wear Gilets through the summer too, even these 'gabba' type fabrics are really good in any temperature below 25+ degrees. I'll nearly always be found in a gilet, or have one in my pocket... With these they're windproof and even pretty good in a rain shower.
 
Soldato
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Soldato
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Hereford
Can't really speak about geo, but what you're using it for may answer... So you're borderline between sizes (bit like me). Off-road more upright position a small might help that, as well feeling a bit more responsive/direct steering. Could always stick a longer stem on it if you wanted to get more aero. But then could do the same with a medium and stick a shorter stem on it. More stretched on the medium might actually be more comfortable on longer distances if riding gravel on drops/flared with GRX...

But I know you'll already have considered most of that and that's why you're torn! ;)
 
Soldato
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Bit of geo advice, contemplating getting this https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Orbea/Terra-M30-Disc-Gravel-Bike-2021/QB95 but unsure if i'm a small or medium. Road bike geo is 54cm of the Felt Fr1 https://feltbicycles.com/products/frame-fr1-performance-performance-road-frame and CX bike is a small Inflite https://www.canyon.com/en-gb/road-b...-sl-8/2443.html#detailed-geometry-section-tab, think it's the medium for me but would like confirmation.

Stack, reach and seat tube centre-top.

I'm 178cm with ~82.5 cycling inseam, pedal top to saddle top on my "58cm" Cube Attain GTC https://www.cube.eu/en/2016/road-race/attain/cube-attain-gtc-pro-disc-greynflashred-2016/ is ~90cm to give me ~30 degrees of knee bend at botom dead centre (to stop my old, bow legged knees getting angry), which only leaves ~19.5cm of seat post to saddle top exposed. It works, but in hindsight, I wish I'd bought a "56cm" frame for more flex in the Selcof carbon post and bought a longer stem. It would also lowered the front end a bit and not make it such an aero brick!

I'd buy the S Terra and add a longer stem, because the M has a longer seat tube than my Cube.
 
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