for this type of weather I use a gabba/perfetto and change the baselayer underneath. I've just bought the rather lovely Assos skin foil winter baselayer for when it drops a bit more. Tonight for example I'll use the gabba with a helly hansen base layer and I might throw on my rain cape when I'm coming in off the hills.Windproof softshell recommendations for this kinda 6-15 degree 'not quite cold' weather?
I've got a couple of DHB Windslam Blade 'jerseys' which are superb but getting quite old/worn now. One of the zips has started to go. None of the DHB replacements since have come close to fit/function/fabric of the 2015 Blade (I've tried most of them through the years). The general Sportful R&D Wind jerseys I've used lots other years are superb but a little too warm/insulated for the upper of that range (like we're seeing now), being more suited to colder 0-10 degrees. I have Castelli Team 'Winter' Jackets (design is like the Arctic /Transition jackets/jerseys) which again are a little too warm for this weather (although less insulated than the Sportful).
Currently looking at the Endura FS260 Jetstream II, but price is quite ripe considering I'm probably after several of them...! I've been able to get away with 2 tops so far, but with an increase in chariot days coming I don't want to double up too much and certainly not 3 days in the same jersey
Road Cycling
- Thread starter FrenchTart
- Start date
Thanks! I'm guessing everything has to be e-tube compatible for e-tube to work, just can't in my mind see how the cables seemingly being no different makes any odds to e-tube. Pffft. Know you've got several di2 setups, used e-tube?
Thanks for the previous recommendation to look at other/older DA di2 before. It's working well so far for me - I got a set of 7970 levers & FD, external battery, mount and some cables. If I can pickup a RD for a good price, then it'll be a di2 setup for <£250?!
I'll be then set to convert the turbo bike to 10-speed di2, I'll then swap the 5800 11-speed from there over to the other halfs bike to replace her old 8-speed. Crazy it's going to work out cheaper than buying S/H mechanical 10/11 speed for her. I also have part of what I need to setup mine to di2 but that'll be 11-speed. I have di2 785 shifters and a 6870 FD, just want an 8050 RD so I can run a 34t rear cassette... Have no battery or control boxes for that so it's going to work out quite a bit more expensive than the 10 speed...
Would you take a punt on a S/H internal battery, or are they the sort of thing which fails/is buggy/problematic so always best to buy new?
Don't mean to be a negative but I think that version you have gone for isn't compatible with everything else unless you stick with 7970 for everything, this is before they moved to the current standard. Therefore you'd need to get the older cables etc. Internal batteries wouldn't work with this version unfortunately. But potentially sounds as though you (hopefully) know all this and are going for the whole kit to have something cheap to use.
Get a new battery for piece of mind. Decathlon were cheapest toget from when I last looked.
Perfetto and base layer here currently, although was 2 base layers when it was really cold last week.
Soldato
- Joined
- 23 Nov 2004
- Posts
- 10,646
Aye that first version of Di2 was a completely different wire setup before they went to the canbus style smaller wires.
If you had bought 10 speed 6770 shifters you'd actually be able to use them with the 6870/8070 mechs as they are essentially switches and the mechs are what set the speed.
If you had bought 10 speed 6770 shifters you'd actually be able to use them with the 6870/8070 mechs as they are essentially switches and the mechs are what set the speed.
Soldato
Slapped some 4 Seasons on the CXR and rode to Spokes (40 mile round trip) for coffee and cake...
Then got two punctures on the way home!
What's worse, I only took one tube and my not so great pump with me! I won't make that mistake again!
I've ordered some rim tape, as I think there might be an issue with the installed rim tape not covering some of the spoke holes. Could that be an issue? To me it looks like a pointy bit is not covered and so could tear into an inner tube? (I'll perhaps post a picture tomorrow/the weekend when I come to fit it).
Then got two punctures on the way home!
What's worse, I only took one tube and my not so great pump with me! I won't make that mistake again!I've ordered some rim tape, as I think there might be an issue with the installed rim tape not covering some of the spoke holes. Could that be an issue? To me it looks like a pointy bit is not covered and so could tear into an inner tube? (I'll perhaps post a picture tomorrow/the weekend when I come to fit it).
Soldato
Halfords site says so, but definitely I could see an arc of 'hole'. It's weird (to me) that the wheels aren't symetrical either side too. One side is more vertical from the spokes to the tyre, the other side slopes more. Why would the design be like that?
The wheel is dished to cope with the rear cassette etc. If you’re concerned about the rim tape you could always redo it. Do you have your old tube? Does the hole marry up to the suspect spot on the rim?
Soldato
I couldn't entirely tell, but the whole was on the inside of things...
New rim tape arriving tomorrow, will just redo it. I did notice some of it moved when I removed the first tyre.
Sounds like you went in too hard with the lever. Easily done
Yep just a simple two wire cable as I found out when I cut one in half. Benefit of that is that I could tape it back together in 10mins.
Soldato
Sounds like you went in too hard with the lever. Easily done
I didn't use the levers... they seemed really well bedded in, almost like they were stuck down. I was pulling/squeezing by hand.
You got the tyre off without a lever? Animal!!
Soldato
No, I separated the tyre from the bead by hand, which was when it pulled some of the rim tape away with the tyre...
Seems off that it did that. Maybe they used tape that was too wide. The tape shouldn’t sit on the bead track.
I don't own a Gabba but know plenty of people with them, so maybe it is finally time I get one (or a Perfetto). I've got 3 Gabba/Fawsome/Perfetto gilets so never really considered getting a gabba worthwhile... I think I'm after something a little more breathable if the jersey is just like the gilet. I'm sorted for base layers (have different ones for the 3 seasons) and generally jerseys/tops for colder weather. I'm sorted for wet weather. I'm kinda after the 'middle' bit between them for the warmer/mild bits where a jersey & arm warmer combo with a gilet isn't quite enough.
Yeah sorry if I confused - using 7970 complete groupset for the turbo bike, but you have answered my question about cables not being compatible. I hadn't realised the plugs where different between generations/iterations of di2. I also hadn't realised batteries wouldn't be cross compatible. So an older external battery isn't compatible with the newer components, or is there some kinda 'adaptor' I could use plug new things in old external batteries? Just thinking for testing purposes.
Does nicely explain how I was going to get this 7970 groupset as cheap as I could, but also because of that I was allowing for a duff/poor battery or two buying them S/H - as it's going to be sat indoors for 99% of its life (probably never doing more than 4-5h a week) so not an issue if battery life is low. I had also thought this would allow me to 'plug & play' other S/H parts as I got them to test for the other build. Obviously can't do that now, damn. But at least it'll let me get to grips with Di2 and some understanding before eventually sorting the main bike!
That helps loads thanks. So basically the 7970 I'll need the older wires for - everything else will be compatible with the newer?
Been there & done that. Only really an issue with running tubeless when you need that seal between tape & rim bed/edges. When you're using tubes as you are it's not really an issue - the tube keeps the air in there, not the seals!
It's entirely possible your wheels/rims although 'tubeless compatible' just have a loose rim strip fitted as they came with tubes and that's what you're seeing (so nothing to worry about). They'd need those strips removing and tape installing to actually use them as tubeless.
Soldato
Windproof softshell recommendations for this kinda 6-15 degree 'not quite cold' weather?
I've got a couple of DHB Windslam Blade 'jerseys' which are superb but getting quite old/worn now. One of the zips has started to go. None of the DHB replacements since have come close to fit/function/fabric of the 2015 Blade (I've tried most of them through the years). The general Sportful R&D Wind jerseys I've used lots other years are superb but a little too warm/insulated for the upper of that range (like we're seeing now), being more suited to colder 0-10 degrees. I have Castelli Team 'Winter' Jackets (design is like the Arctic /Transition jackets/jerseys) which again are a little too warm for this weather (although less insulated than the Sportful).
Currently looking at the Endura FS260 Jetstream II, but price is quite ripe considering I'm probably after several of them...! I've been able to get away with 2 tops so far, but with an increase in chariot days coming I don't want to double up too much and certainly not 3 days in the same jersey
Have you looked at the options from Galibier if price is a sticking point? https://galibier.cc/long-sleeve-wear/ FWIW, I got one of their Sentinel S/S foul weather jerseys last month (Gabba/Perfettot clone for £60ish). Only used it once so far - that was with arm-warmers and a thin base layer in around 8 deg C . When moving and working I was fine but suspect would have got cold during a longer stop (though 8 deg is right at the bottom of their recommend temp-range though). I remember if being quite windy but the wind proofing worked fine.
Soldato
Here we go -
oh ‘eck! That’ll do it.
spring has broken inside the derailleur trapezoid, I don't know how I did it, but I suddenly found it was stuck in gear and the shifter didn't work
I thought I'd be able to drive the pin out from the other side, open it up, and transplant a spring from an unused front mech.
But I just don't get it ? drilled half way through, from the other side, through the outer plate, through the hole in middle of the steel piece,
but its all alloy so far, and no sign of the top of a hardened pin, to knock .. how the hell does it work
Looks like a new derailleur then .. 9 speed commuter, so considering claris r2000/ sora 3000 or a 2nd hand deore xt.