Discussion in 'Pedal Powered' started by FrenchTart, 29 Jun 2016.
FTP gains in the off season?! You’re crazy!!
With the huge rise in eracing, i suspect much like the pros many people won't have time off at all now, much like all us crazy CXers have been doing for years
The off-season for me will be trying to keep the weight stable while keeping some volume. Planning for 2021 has begun!
My CTL is still mid 90's and I've not had any more than 2 days off in a row since as far back as I can remember.
I've let mine come down, with the onset of winter etc I don't want to be carrying too much fatigue and then get hit for 6 with a heavy cold, or the 'rona.
My CTL probably around 50 now
I've recently had a week off due to a back/hip injury I somehow sustained.
@Roady the front wheel ones have larger flanges that are knurled.
The rear ones sit in the axle and you have to use the knurled rings with them.
This is a Racing 6 set up as QR.
Undo the drive side nut clockwise, holding the non drive side adjuster with something around 20mm on the flats to hold the axle in place.
screw the new knurled one on then plug then qr top hat in the axle. Non drive side just pushes on the end of the axle and then then qr tophat.
Here is the wheel before you remove the 12x142 nut and the front qr top hats.
Mines dropped down to mid 80s last few weeks mainly due to installing a bathroom on Saturdays so not getting a long ride in. Still hitting it hard mid week though. Looking forward to rest week next week. Same as you, I had 2 days off in a row for the first time than before lockdown I think (even after my accident) was when I got married the other week and was too hungover to ride the next day. Went for a jog though!
Thanks for all the help guys. I'll have another look tomorrow (wheels are in the boot of my car from picking back up from LBS, yes, I gave them both wheels and all parts I had). I still expect, if they couldn't work it out, I probably wont and maybe I have incorrect parts.
Thinking about it, this might be easiest. Do you have the full rear wheel kit? Happy to cover postage and a small donation to your next cycling upgrade if it gets these wheels on
It looks like you have all the bits to me mate.
I don't see how that can be if none of the top hat bits, will fit inside any of the other bits, or the wheel? Unless, the spindle should just be threaded through them and the spindle holds them in place? **EDIT** I forget now, maybe they went inside another peice, but basically there's only so many ways it can work and quite a few people have now failed to be able to put them together
Knoblies back on the CXR today and off I went. Really nice ride...
About 500m after that photo, I had a flat again, so I don't think it's the tyre pressure. Decided just to patch it, again the slit was on the inside of the tube, opposite side of the valve where the rim tape was out of place. I wondered if I patched it, that bit would be stronger and might help? A couple of miles later it was going down again, so I decided to just put a new tube in. This time, I used some of the sticky patches to stick the rim tape in place. That seemed to work and I did the 13 miles home with no issue.
I thought I was buying sticky rim tape before... but I wasn't. Can anyone link to some, or can I just use some stick take to cover these abrasive holes in the rim?
I’ve recently used the stans stuff, but there might be better suggestions from others.
I've got the bits you need lying about spare in the shop if you want them.
It's pretty simple so can't see why it can't be done to be honest.
I guess that's what I mean though, if it's simple, surely I would be able to work it out? I will have another go tomorrow (still not got them back out of my boot) but I'd be very surprised if parts fit together all of a sudden
I woke around 2:30am to use the toilet and noticed as I passed through the hallway the back tyre was flat again This rather annoyed me, as my hopeful fix clearly hadn't worked. (Then took me a while to sleep again! ) So I guess I have one last option of sticky rim tape (thick, perhaps?) otherwise I'm wondering what my chances are of returning it to Halfords as not fit for purpose? (I did buy a set of files, to file down the edges of each spoke hole, but wont try this before I see what Halfords will do) I'll draft an email this evening. (Anyone have experience with complaining to Halfords? Any good contacts? I have one for my competition win with them, but I guess she's in Marketing more than anything else)
I think I'm talking to myself in here now Someone today mentioned to me latex inner tubes. Does anyone have experience? Apparently much more puncture resistant. I can see some that will be good for the CXR, but would love to use one on my road bike, but I can only see 48mm Presta, I think I need at least 60mm. Anyone know of any?
Latex aren’t more puncture proof, they’re lighter? Going tubeless would eliminate all these punctures you’ve had from the spoke holes.
Anyone been out today? I ended up doing a bit too much.
Check out my ride on Strava.
Seemed like every man and his dog was out for a drive today. At times I think the dog was driving.
Latex aren't more puncture proof as such but because they are more supply they're able to absorb hits without pinch puncturing. You've got to really catch em to picnh them. Definitely head tubeless for your needs.
Longest ride in quite a while today hitting 85 in just under 5 hours. Loads of riders out whilst it's fairly mild and dryish.
Latex are lighter and have a bit less rolling resistance, but need a proper pumping up almost daily. Great for your 'best' bike but not for winter.
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