Road Cycling

[Jonny ///M]

You must have some bad karma built up @AndyCr15 with all these punctures.

I get about 1 or 2 a year on 23mm gp4000/5000, haven't checked my pressures since Tuesday either.

Also did quite a long one compared to my usual, not overly fast but I just had to have a 2 hour nap so I guess it was taxing. Trying to pace it by HR but that gets hard into a headwind.

 

[AndyCr15]

That's what I'm reading, less likely to pinch, which is what I think most of mine are (and might help with my CXR issue). I also see some weigh more, so I guess are thicker, again making them tougher?

I guess if I can find good 'sticky' rim tape, I would be able to go tubeless? It says they're tubeless ready...

I’ve recently used the stans stuff

Like this perhaps?

I'm a little confused by this though -

Traditional (Non Stan's NoTubes ZTR) rims including those labeled "tubeless ready" still require a black rubber NoTubes Rim Strip to achieve a secure tubeless setup. Using only Yellow Rim Tape and NoTubes Tyre Sealant on a conventional rim can result in catastrophic "burping" issues.

It says on tubeless ready, but then says the problems happen on conventional rims? Which is it?

You must have some bad karma built up @AndyCr15 with all these punctures.

Tell me about it

 

[Jonny ///M]

Loads of rims say tubeless ready but come with tyres that aren't tubeless ready so you have to buy tyres, tubeless tape, valves and sealant.

You'll find your rim size on the rim somewhere written as 622x19 or 622x21 etc. The lower number is the rim width so buy tape 2mm bigger so 21mm tape for 19mm rim for example.

Tubeless tape isn't that sticky really, it's more plastic feeling but it covers the rim edge to edge to create the seal under the hook of the rim and tyre bead.

I'd stick a new rim strip on it and just run tubes https://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-e...cJDrEh3Sn_SS39cBBOzVEUNh_CfBDpphoCj0YQAvD_BwE

or get tape like this and all the other gubbins and go tubeless.

https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/products/tubeless-rim-tape-21mm-25mm-or-32mm-x66m

 

[Shadowness]

Latex tubes are are must for TTing (if you're going for the best time possible) but for a standard road bike I wouldn't bother.

I have to pump my TT bike up everyday as they leak so much overnight.

 

[Adam-r]

That's what I'm reading, less likely to pinch, which is what I think most of mine are (and might help with my CXR issue). I also see some weigh more, so I guess are thicker, again making them tougher?

Pinch flats tend to have the tell tale ‘snake bite’ in the tube. You’re not seeing that? If you are then your pressures are consistently too low. Going tubeless if going to set you back ~£100 including everything. If you haven’t got a shock pump I’d recommend paying your lbs £20 or so to fit them for you.

You absolutely should be able to take the bike back and explain the problems to them. Sourcing you a replacement wheel should be fairly painless for them.

 

[AndyCr15]

Right, coming back to those damn wheels

Neither of these are possible with the parts I have. The knurled ring is too small and would just sit on the rim of the top hat. Nor can the knurled parts attach to the wheel in any way.

The wider side of the top hat is the same width as the through axel hole. There are two rings big enough to fit round the outside of the top hat, but they are very thin and can in no way attach the top hat to the wheel.

Here is the wheel before you remove the 12x142 nut and the front qr top hats.

Yup, these are the ones I have in the front.

Happy to pay postage if either of you have the correct parts . I do appreciate all the help you guys are giving, It's just so frustrating having so many great rides ruined by multiple flats

 

[Jonny ///M]

Right. Taking a proper look.

You want to remove the he drive side piece with the flats using a 17mm. Once you have that off you're using number 5 in your image.

Number 3 knurled piece in the drive side.


The part that is throwing you is that you have the top hats inside a 12 or 15mm bolt through adapter. The shiny parts are 12/15mm adapter for the front wheel the matt parts are the adapter you want to pull apart.

 

[AndyCr15]

I didn't try, but the LBS were telling me they couldn't get the shiny part of the rear. It definitely comes off? I have got spanners somewhere, so I can have a go. Part 3

The part that is throwing you is that you have the top hats inside a 12 or 15mm bolt through adapter.

Ahh, I get you, the top hat should come apart! THANKS!

When I do that, the inner top hat fits perfectly into the shiny bit already on then wheel.

But, the thinner bit of top hat rattles in all other parts other than 4?

**EDIT** Nevermind, I think I did it with piece 3!!! . Thank you so much for your help! I'll get my 4 Seasons, disc and cassette on them now

 

[Jonny ///M]

It's a left hand thread so turn it clockwise to loosen.

The axle spins so you need to hold it in place on the non drive side. The adjuster has two flats that I held with a 20mm cone spanner. An adjustable spanner would work.

The knurled pieces don't hold the top hats, the axle does that.

 

[Berger]

Big week this week. I changed the battery on my HR monitor. And rode 0km. Next week not looking too clever either!

 

[Jonny ///M]

Impressive @Berger.

Bit of a rest does no harm when it's this crap outside.

 

[AndyCr15]

Hopefully final question for a while. When I took the lock off for the centre disc to go on, there's a really thin silver ring, is this thrown away when the disc goes on, or is it meant to help bind it into a locked position. Then, the disc is quite well in place, but there's a mm or so of movement until it stops moving. I guess I need a tool like this to tighten it? **EDIT** Or this?

 

[Jonny ///M]

I fit the silver washer, stops it from coming undone I guess. They are around 40nm so pretty tight on there, don't be scared to tighten it. Had plenty come in that are loose and you feel the wheel rocking when you have the brake applied.

Second tool should work. I've got those sockets but prefer the spanner type

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cyclo-Shimano-Hollowtech-Bracket-Tool/dp/B002NGO2PI

Less of a moment on it once you add a ratchet to the socket. Pull up with the wheel pushed against something and all the force goes into turning it rather than the socket trying to bend away from the locknut.

 

[AndyCr15]

Thanks, I think I get what you mean, I've ordered that. Should come today and hopefully tomorrow I can take the bike out and see how the new wheels do!

 

[jpaul]

Your experience with Powerlink lifespan ?
My Sram powerlink that came with the chain which has probably been cleaned 6 times in its lifetime, has stopped clicking in, so, could in theory(couldn't simulate it) come undone,
so I resorted to rivetting it back together grafting a spare chain section.

Do you buy spare power links - the oem ones seem expensive at ~£3 versus £1 for no mark; although, I'd used sram one on a shimano, are they genuinely universal, too?
(https://www.roadbikerider.com/bike-chain-quick-links-guide/ wipperman one are supposed to be designed as re-usable)

I have found that for powerlinks, until I got the park tool, thy are hard to remove by other means, like needle pliers, so their benefit is not so great, versus rivet removal.

 

[Adam-r]

Your experience with Powerlink lifespan ?
My Sram powerlink that came with the chain which has probably been cleaned 6 times in its lifetime, has stopped clicking in, so, could in theory(couldn't simulate it) come undone,
so I resorted to rivetting it back together grafting a spare chain section.

Do you buy spare power links - the oem ones seem expensive at ~£3 versus £1 for no mark; although, I'd used sram one on a shimano, are they genuinely universal, too?
(https://www.roadbikerider.com/bike-chain-quick-links-guide/ wipperman one are supposed to be designed as re-usable)

I have found that for powerlinks, until I got the park tool, thy are hard to remove by other means, like needle pliers, so their benefit is not so great, versus rivet removal.

I tend to change the power links with every chain and the chain tends to be supplied with one. I haven’t riveted a chain together for years but when I did I ended up with a stiff link. Chain link pliers are a must I find for power links. I’ve never been able to open them using finger pressure, despite what YouTube shows you.

 

[Roady]

FTP gains in the off season?! You’re crazy!!

Off season? What's that!

For me as I'm always 'training' to try and maintain the fitness I have I don't really have seasons. I'm usually fighting so hard to do that, it's not worth it. Usually illness and 'life' gives me enough bumps along the way that it's a constant fight. I like to work along the 'base' I have being enough that I can then jump into any weekend rides 30-50 miles without suffering too much and generally previous years with only a slight change in things meaning I can easily up to 60-80 miles too. For me flexibility is key - so I can just jump on any opportunity to ride which comes along.

Although this year I've built quite nicely with the increase from Lockdown #1 glorious weather & Furlough, then transferring straight into some consistent Zwifting and the TTT efforts. I'm probably stronger and being more consistent now than I've been for a number of years (2017 possibly my 'best'). Although hard to judge as it's different riding.

My CTL is still mid 90's and I've not had any more than 2 days off in a row since as far back as I can remember.
******* Zwift!

TP? Where do I see that in the free one? Maybe it's about time I eventually got around to subbing. Any BF deals/referrals/etc anyone spots then let me know please!

@Roady the front wheel ones have larger flanges that are knurled.

The rear ones sit in the axle and you have to use the knurled rings with them.

Many thanks for helping Andy, sounds like he's sorted! Pictures speak a thousand words!

was when I got married the other week and was too hungover to ride the next day. Went for a jog though!

Unsure if I congratulated you then (or pre-congrats'd after your accident) but CONGRATULATIONS!

Thinking about it, this might be easiest. Do you have the full rear wheel kit? Happy to cover postage and a small donation to your next cycling upgrade if it gets these wheels on

If you're not sorted then more than happy to do this. Before reading/catching up in here today I considered going through and changing my rear (I've not got the wheels fitted) to QR and taking pictures of the parts I used. Still an option!

At times I think the dog was driving.

Haha that made me smile!

Got called into work on Saturday, was gutted as saw lots of riders and missed some good weather. Umm-ed about heading out Sunday but chickened out and did some Zwifting in the afternoon instead.

Big week this week. I changed the battery on my HR monitor. And rode 0km. Next week not looking too clever either!

Gotta start somewhere!

although, I'd used sram one on a shimano, are they genuinely universal, too?

I use SRAM ones regardless of 11-speed chain as I've generally always got spares (as tend to only buy SRAM chains) and if one is difficult to remove when replacing a chain (don't take my chains off until replacing) I'll reuse it.

Seem to recall I bought a pack of 5-6 of them in a deal at some point too. They came in individual blisters. I don't recall ever buying Shimano ones.

Having a removal tool makes the job 100 times easier. Especially for a few quid. Although I do wish sometimes I'd got the plier version which also helps when refitting them too, as I only got the removal one.

Still, no real hardship to remove a bike from a stand, to stomp on the pedals to attach the link, before then putting it back in the stand. There are times I'll hold the chain together with a zip-tie when measuring/etc. Well recommended to get a pack of long zips thin enough to do that! #protip

 

[Adam-r]

Roady, I use golden cheetah rather than TP. It’s free.

 

[Roady]

Roady, I use golden cheetah rather than TP. It’s free.

Good shout, been a while since I looked at that.

wattsboard.com is another good freebie, but don't think there's much in there about fatigue/TL, but lots of good power averages and stuff.

Good ride of yours too, that first 10 miles of mostly climbing must hurt! Some good long stuff around Sheffield and that ride is a good example of it! #jealous

 

[Adam-r]

Good shout, been a while since I looked at that.

wattsboard.com is another good freebie, but don't think there's much in there about fatigue/TL, but lots of good power averages and stuff.

Good ride of yours too, that first 10 miles of mostly climbing must hurt! Some good long stuff around Sheffield and that ride is a good example of it! #jealous

Yeah, one of the positives of living so close to the peaks is there is no shortage of hills. There was a few tasty ones in that ride. Some 12-14% sections coming out of the cafe stop