He isn't against power as such but just of the opinion that you can sell yourself short. If you tell yourself your FTP is 300w for an hour or you can go 400w for 6 minutes on a climb but suddenly someone attacks and you have to do 450w for 6 minutes you will tell yourself you can't do it rather than just dig deep and smash it. It sort of happened to me in a race with my HR monitor on, hadn't really used it much and I look down and see 202Bpm and was like holy ****. It distracted me from concentrating on the race in front of me - now a few hundred yards in front
Positioning can save sooooooooo much wastage energy too, I'm fully aware that the back roundabout of the A80 is deadly so I take myself off the front and freewheel to the back to go slowly round it. The next section is pretty much a sprint to get back on the bunch. The opposite roundabout is safer so I tend stay top five so I can glue myself to the strongest guys wheel for when he decides to line it out without having to do a big effort and blow up.
Oh I get that and he's totally right - I'll do the same as you regularly on Zwift and just 'know I can't follow' by looking at the numbers, rather than generally smashing myself to do so. But I guess much of that for me is wanting to finish most things and not DQ/utterly destroy myself for other things that week/weekend!
It's like a mental block, or more accurately a 'data block'.
The TTT I did last thursday is a good
non-example (40 minutes over my FTP), I went so hard chasing wheels/gaps I was generally 'ignoring' the data, the couple of times I looked (generally on the hardest ramps) I would then ease/taper my efforts slightly so I didn't blow up. The rest of the time I was at or utterly over my limit. I 'half' blew up at least 4 times where I felt I had no option but to ease, where I just dug deep and somehow held the wattage at my absolute limit. Blew up twice (properly) including throwing up! Serves me right for chasing good B & A riders on that damn hard Harrogate course!
The start of another Zwift race (not a TTT) last night is the example of it going the other way - I knew I was deep, chasing wheels after a hectic bunch start, but when things then strung out and I was still well over 300W just to hold wheels/chase gaps,
I 'gave up' because of that and eased. I should have been able to hold that effort longer, or ease it to 300W and hold it longer. I got so annoyed I actually sat up and looked for something else to ride, drew a blank and continued. My ride
afterwards doing pulls in a mixed B/C group and then
later mostly 2up with a C confirmed I had the legs. Although I was riding later in the day (after a busy day) and under fuelled, I didn't really feel it.
As regards FTP tests, I rarely bother with them now and just simply do one of the frequent 16Km+ Tempus Fugit TTs on Zwift with a bit of a negative split effort.
That'll do it! TT (& TTT) efforts if done correctly are really very similar to an FTP test! Almost harder! Better to use the data from them as far more engaging and interesting than tests!
Got some new cheap HRM the other day and seems to be working a treat. Think that must be my 6th garmin die over the years. Out of warranty now though unfortunately.
I've said it before and I'll say it again. Get a TICKR. Mine has been faultless and just TICK'd over 5 years old. Did pay £41 for it, but less than £10 a year even me thinks that's good value!
2021 OCUK does Tour de Peaks - Get signed up
Put me down! Although spare holiday days from work is not something I'm going to have going forwards with damn school summer holidays! Might be a year or two before I can convince the other half my 5 year old needs a few days climbing hills in the Peaks...
Any thoughts on some tubeless 32mm road/gravel tyres? I’m tempted by some panaracer gravel kings but thought I’d ask. 4 punctures in 2 rides. I’m getting some chicken soup in them!
GK's come well regarded for gravel but I think generally those with them in the UK don't find them grippy enough... Lets be honest, depending what trails you have, most of the UK 'gravel' trails during the winter are half mud...
My kickr v5 struggles with cadence on any downhills/negative gradient. Always reads higher than it should do. The remainder of the time it's very accurate. It's as a result of not being able to compensate for the lack of inertia you would have that you still get from the flywheel weight I guess. Never bothers me as I run my 1030 alongside my phone plus it's on the climbs it matters more.
This probably belongs in the Indoor riding thread. But is a known issue with many/most of the flywheel direct driven trainers. I actually used a separate cadence sensor with my Flux v1 because of it. Unsure if Zwift or Tacx fixed things since then, but my sensor has long died and I've not really felt the need to replace it's battery... I do still occasionally notice my cadence a bit 'sticky'.
2oC this morning, but dragged myself from the warmth of my bed to clock up 40 miles. I layered up nicely (4 on top, 2 below) and it was fine, aside my fingers and a little bit my toes. Any tips for these? I had overshoes on, which helped. I should have tried the 'tin foil over the toes' tip I saw on GCN. I've put some glove liners on my Xmas list, I guess they will help.
Liners will help, if you've good gloves already. You really need gloves with good wind protection in the winter months as your hands are very exposed and not generally generating any/much heat as they're not moving much. It's very easy to get numb/slow hands and not even realise until they get painful, then they're some of the worst things to try and warm up! Raynauds makes them even worse!
Feet can be the opposite as they're moving a lot more, but equally most people who suffer from cold hands, also generally suffer with cold feet. Feet although moving are exposed to more - dirt & moisture can chill them regardless of any heat they're generating. One trick I do is to put toe warmers on, underneith overshoes. The toe box generally hits cold air so cools the most, so insulating it more can do wonders for your ride if you can keep more heat in. Taping vents and foil over toes are just extensions of that...
It's hard to judge as we're all individual, but personally I don't 'suffer' with cold or hot hands very often, nor with lack of breathability so I'll happily overly layer them up. During the autumn->spring seasons I'll always be in overshoes, even when it's over 20 degrees at times. I'll generally always be in merino socks too, so even if my feet get a little damp/sweaty they're still warm and I don't really notice until taking my shoes off afterwards.
I wore my super winter
Spatz 'Roadman V2' overshoes last Friday for the first time this winter. It wasn't as cold (1 degree) as it had been some other mornings, but they do work really well. Rest of the time I've been in generally thicker socks and basic Sealskinz overshoes for my commute (far easier & quicker to put on/take off for my <10 minute commute). If riding further I'd be wearing the Spatz. But they are overly expensive and easy to damage/tear so I'm quite conscious about only wearing them when really 'necessary'.
For feet, the only things I’ve found that really work are my Northwave full winter boots but they’re clunky and uncomfortable compared to normal shoes.
Agreed, winter boots work well as they're not made to be breathable like most shoes. I generally only dig mine out when there's prolonged cold mornings & evenings. Should probably have got them out 2 weeks ago...
It's been... uhm... 4 years.
Did
@Calpol survive and ever consider doing it again?!