@Roady
The conditioning is only part of it. Some issues don't present themselves as the time spent seated isn't enough to create the problem, which is both good and bad. The guy you know will have an issue with one of the above things I mentioned unless he has a skin condition. I'd stick my car on it. With mapping, checking bib line and using the mirror method as above, mine still isn't 50/50 even split pressure but it's very close. In theory, this still means I would eventually have a problem on the left, but it would take huge hours/mileage every week with little to no recovery. To get it perfect, like with many other people, it would probably take a physio and/or a strange very slight none symmetrical bike setup. The bike is never the problem, it's the person as left and right aren't identical. Even if identical measurements, still will be side bias, dominant leg etc
I was agreeing with you, but also saying that there are many other factors, including thing like geometry, saddle, cleats/shoes and shorts. As you say we're all unique and generally quite poor designs for something as symmetrical as pedalling efficiency! I'm sure you'll agree but the conditioning is 'only part of it' is only valid at the lower end of the scale, really someone doing 10k miles and over 500 hours per year in the saddle (the guy in question), when they're doing 20h per week training, will be as 'conditioned' as possible! Certainly to the 1 (or 2) bikes/saddles/positions they're riding!
I think same as you. That trying to attain a perfect 50/50 balance is pretty impossible, we just have to get as close as possible to be as efficient as possible with the time/equipment/money we have. I always thought I was quite imbalanced as I've always felt like I had a pronounced stronger right leg, when looking at pedalling with a bike fit the guy had me close to 50/50 which I thought was wrong. Then I got a PWM which 'estimated' L/R and I think the worst I saw was 46/54, the majority of the time being 48-49 left. I had some doubt in the estimation so did 2-3 sessions on a Wattbike to confirm and it was the same. So last time I changed PWM even went for a left crank arm option and see no issue with that. Consistency is key and a couple of % really falls within the realms of variation of measurement.
yes thats prettyy much what i thought re halfords not being able to help ha
They might be pretty good for finding stock online, returns etc, but before then you've gotta decide what saddle & size to get...!
Best advice I can give is to just try a few, ask around friends for any old saddles they have you can try and such. Then you're back to buying cheap ones online just to 'try' the fit. I lucked out with my Specialized Power, finding one S/H with quite a big scuff on one side so got it less than half price. Before then I'd used various saddles with cut-outs with mixed success. But I hadn't started trying saddles with cut outs until one came with my new bike... For several years before then I'd always used fairly flat, narrow and solid saddles like the Arione and thought they where the fit/shape for me. How wrong I was!
Yeah I just go by noise and feel. Can tell pretty easily it needs a wee top up
Not used that Finish Line green wet stuff for ages. Black chain within 3 nanoseconds, OCD doesn't cope well with it haha.
My OCD is really kept in check by how filthy my bike is 99% of the time being a UK commuter... Has really beaten it out of me!
Good old Facebook memories popped up this morning. It's been 8 years since I turned to the dark side and got my first road bike! Covered a lot of miles and spent far too much money in the time since but still loving it.
Great to see/hear! I must be near the same amount of time. My Strava starts in 2013 and I must have been riding around a year before logging anything.
Thats some elbow grease going on. I generally give the MTB a hose down if really bad, the road bike gets a quick squirt of GT86 once a month. I know, asking for trouble.
On the chain? GT85 is pretty handy as a chain cleaner if short on time to use a full chain cleaner & usual drying process, especially this time of year. I tend to pair it with quite a bit of rubbing/scrubbing to get the vast majority of 'road gravy' out and then adding some lube after. For me it's a 10 minute chain clean when commuting. During the summer I clean less, but use a proper chain cleaner as the drying process is so much easier/quicker.
But don't treat that as a prime example as I get through at least 3 chains most years.
They're normally silent, so it makes it seem even worse when I sound like the whistle from a steam train blaring at 8am through sleepy little villages
If you have silent disks you're doing it wrong! All about scaring grannies and small children.
Although mine sound more like a massive fog horn, not a whistle from a steam train!
So I think I’ve messed up trying to pair my mudguards with 25mm prime armour tyres. Subsequently read that my bike (Defy 1 2015) can only take guards with 23mm tyres. Going to order some 23s and see how I get on.
On my Defy 1 2015 I ended up using SKS Raceblades's over 25mm. Mitchenlins where ok, Continentals less room but generally ok. Did have a few instances of cut grass getting clogged in the brake bridges and dry leaves getting picked up and rubbing needing manual removal. I couldn't get any more 'fixed' guards to get clearance over 25's.
Really rate the Raceblades XL/Long though, not a solid guard, but wear well, not flimsy, not a quiet guard but certainly loads better than the Giant 'fender' (2 versions) and the Crud Roadracer v1 & v2 I tried. For clearance, parts, quality and think they where even cheaper.