Road Cycling

[Roady]

I use my car torque wrench branded by Draper. Never let me down and can be bought from most auto factors

Something like this

Yeah I read quite mixed reviews of that one but was going to get it - but out of stock locally for me. Several unknown ones from Toolstation I couldn't find reviews for. But found the Amazon one with similar reviews to the Draper and other low priced ones with next day delivery. Neo is now sorted - but a combination of an axle and o-ring really

Merlin doing Vision Metron SL 40s at a cracking price currently. £999.

40mm carbon clinchers 1400-1450g.

Zipp or similar are heavier and twice the price!

Im sorely tempted but it’s more than I want to spend!

What are you comparing them to? I'm out of touch with rim brake prices, but the Zipp 303S are similar price, just a bit heavier (but are wider and more of an all-round).

Although you'll have to be careful with Zipps and your tight clearances - their latest offerings are increasingly wide, the 303S is 23mm and the new 303 is 25mm internal. They are both disk ones though.

No but it reminds me of when strava was quite fresh to the scene. I used to go out and noticed a new 'KoM', when you looked at many segments they were negative net climbing so were basically downhill and thus not KoM in principle at all lol.

Sounds like an annoying feature, especially with crappy data/gps tracks able to catch it out! There's still a bunch of 'cat 4 hills' around here from rubbish GPS data. As mentioned it did use to be much worse!

The 'climbing' page on the ELEMNT can be customised to include what data metrics you want alongside the climbing bits. Have VAM and Gradient on mine alongside 5s and 15s power.

maybe I needed more time to recover? The last 20 the saddle was hurting, my legs had gone and I just wanted to be home, which doesn't happen often. (The last 20 were also roads I've done many times, so you lose the enjoyment a bit because of that).

Still, really enjoyed the ride up to the that point, some lovely roads and I've actually got some sun burn!

Totally this - just fatigue and boring roads. Especially on the 'home stretch' as it's all stuff you've seen before so nothing to really distract. Nothing worse than 'counting down the miles' with sore legs! The times I do it I get very annoyed with myself, I usually try and distract myself with some higher cadence or standing drills just to vary things. Stretching out to relieve some strain, or spinning to legs out to also do similar - usually find my cadence is flagging or all over the place at that point anyway...! Although quite different to getting to that point where you're considering calling for a lift home on the last hill! Counting pedal strokes and measuring the effort into each one works for me at that point. Like a countdown - it has an end, but count up as never sure where it'll be!

 

[Berger]

Disc brake Roady.

I’m on team rim brake and team tube inside.

 

[NotAGolf]

On a scale of 1 to 10, how quickly should I replace my tyres (Continental gp4000s)? I've noticed a bit of material is starting to peel away on this weird strip between the tyre and the rim, but I'm not really sure what it's purpose is.

I've got some gp5000's on the way, but they might not be delivered for some time.

 

[Shadowness]

1

 

[gpuerrilla]

@NotAGolf I had this on my conti's too for few years now. At first I thought it might be my winter steed as that had guards, but it seems to be common. I actually avoid buying them now unless they are on offer.

 

[Roady]

Disc brake Roady.

I’m on team rim brake and team tube inside.

Oh dude you're ancient! 1990 called they want their haircut and shell suits back!

On a scale of 1 to 10, how quickly should I replace my tyres (Continental gp4000s)? I've noticed a bit of material is starting to peel away on this weird strip between the tyre and the rim, but I'm not really sure what it's purpose is.

I've got some gp5000's on the way, but they might not be delivered for some time.

They do tend to shred a little on the outside, all Continentals do really but I wouldn't worry about that small amount, at least not until there's more of the inner carcass showing.

On a scale of 0-10 how many years have they been on there and how many miles have they done so you're happy to spend the £100 it'll take to change them!?

 

[Lethal`]

GP5000s have been ~£30 on Amazon for last few months. Delivery can be a bit slow (not next day) but quite quick. Just bought another "spare" to use up an expiring promo credit yesterday.

 

[NotAGolf]

Cheers guys. They're only about 9 months/3000km old. The surface on the tyre is still pretty spotless, it's just that weird strip on the sidewall that's showing signs of wear.

 

[PardonTheWait]

I’ve found this issue seems to be down to corrupt course files rather than the device itself. I had flattish rides showing 5000m of elevation that then led to loads of random climbs appearing on the road.

I’m not really sure, it seems to have the right data on there, but a couple of them especially seemed almost fully flat. Maybe it is corrupt.

As an example, 1.68mi, 328ft of climbing, average grade 3%. Can’t remember if that one felt like those figures were right, but that “climb” certainly wouldn’t have been on the list previously so I wonder if they’ve moved the goalposts to include more?

I’ll reload the course and see if it changes.

 

[Drollic]

No but it reminds me of when strava was quite fresh to the scene. I used to go out and noticed a new 'KoM', when you looked at many segments they were negative net climbing so were basically downhill and thus not KoM in principle at all lol.

A lot of kom segments are a complete farce and some of the people who apparently review the data are equally as bad. They pretty much ignore heart rate and cadence. You can tailgate vehicles no issue at all as a result. Outside of climbs and longer efforts, they are almost always down to who has the highest tailwind combined with who's willing to take the most risk at or approaching a junction. Then there's my favourites - guys coming out for the shortest possible total distances in the highest possible tailwinds and the lowest average speeds just for a 'few efforts'. Sometimes on the tt bike

 

[gpuerrilla]

A lot of kom segments are a complete farce and some of the people who apparently review the data are equally as bad. They pretty much ignore heart rate and cadence. You can tailgate vehicles no issue at all as a result. Outside of climbs and longer efforts, they are almost always down to who has the highest tailwind combined with who's willing to take the most risk at or approaching a junction. Then there's my favourites - guys coming out for the shortest possible total distances in the highest possible tailwinds and the lowest average speeds just for a 'few efforts'. Sometimes on the tt bike

Would be interesting to see what similar lengths people on zwift/RGT are willing to go through to eDope segments/racing etc.

 

[xdcx]

Would be interesting to see what similar lengths people on zwift/RGT are willing to go through to eDope segments/racing etc.

Oh, you have no idea how utterly ridiculous it is on Zwift. Even at verified level. It is way worse than Strava/IRL cheating.

 

[gpuerrilla]

Oh, you have no idea how utterly ridiculous it is on Zwift. Even at verified level. It is way worse than Strava/IRL cheating.

I have never used it but I have used RGT which is similar. After working out who the bot characters were, I was surprised to see the people on it flying round at some watt/kg metric and got me thinking are people really that sad they would do these things on a sim environment (I know the answer is yes)

 

[hellarda]

Tempted to try these myself - not your usual cyclist build at 95kg so think safest to go for the HDs

Let me know what you think when you get them!

Took the plunge... 2nd week of June delivery hopefully! Now I just need to find some 160mm rotors in-stock.........

 

[Lethal`]

Who actually decided alloy Shimano freehubs are a good idea?

Picked up a used Zonda off eBay but looks pretty much new (from Wiggle eBay). Freehub has notches but thought I'd try it anyway. Of course it's super hard to get lockring on without stripping it as the notches mean the cassette doesn't quite want to sit right far back without persuasion. Got it on eventually but bearing kinda worn anyway so will be coming off soon enough I guess!

I've got two spare freehubs from previous Zonda/Scirocco. Scirocco has a steel freehub so I'll likely use that...

 

[PardonTheWait]

Anyone got any


Took the plunge... 2nd week of June delivery hopefully! Now I just need to find some 160mm rotors in-stock.........

Mine are only due a week before yours, I weigh about the same which is why I went for them. I do intend to lose some weight and should be able to but I’d like to be able to load up a bit on luggage at some point too.

 

[Jonny ///M]

Who actually decided alloy Shimano freehubs are a good idea?

Picked up a used Zonda off eBay but looks pretty much new (from Wiggle eBay). Freehub has notches but thought I'd try it anyway. Of course it's super hard to get lockring on without stripping it as the notches mean the cassette doesn't quite want to sit right far back without persuasion. Got it on eventually but bearing kinda worn anyway so will be coming off soon enough I guess!

I've got two spare freehubs from previous Zonda/Scirocco. Scirocco has a steel freehub so I'll likely use that...

Whoever designed the fulcrum/campag freehub body needs shot. One of the most expensive and most unreliable I've ever had or worked on. DT Swiss for £25 are night and day.

Usual Bundy ride tonight but decided to put a few efforts in but went a bit too tonto near the start.

Think I got 1400w for 4s and over 1074w for 15s

Fair bit of sitting in after it

 

[Lethal`]

Whoever designed the fulcrum/campag freehub body needs shot. One of the most expensive and most unreliable I've ever had or worked on. DT Swiss for £25 are night and day.

Are you suggesting they're compatible?

Yeah... it does make me wonder if I should have just got different wheels lol. I've now got two (almost functional) sets though. One old Zonda, one C17 Zonda (freehub bearing could do with being changed but I've got two freehubs I use instead). And a set of DT Swiss R24s but the freehub bearings need changing and the rim needs straightening out from dent in brake track + true. Need to take that to a shop.

What do people use other than Kool Stop Salmon? Some how I've ran out of stock and most shops seem to have been out of stock for months too!

 

[xdcx]

What do people use other than Kool Stop Salmon? Some how I've ran out of stock and most shops seem to have been out of stock for months too!

SwissStop. Always used them and can't say a bad word. On both alloy and carbon rims.

 

[Jonny ///M]

Are you suggesting they're compatible?

Yeah... it does make me wonder if I should have just got different wheels lol. I've now got two (almost functional) sets though. One old Zonda, one C17 Zonda (freehub bearing could do with being changed but I've got two freehubs I use instead). And a set of DT Swiss R24s but the freehub bearings need changing and the rim needs straightening out from dent in brake track + true. Need to take that to a shop.

What do people use other than Kool Stop Salmon? Some how I've ran out of stock and most shops seem to have been out of stock for months too!

Haha sorry not compatible just trying to compare price and quality.

I'd need to try a fulcrum freehub with some NTN bearings and maybe cover it in marine grease to see how long that would last. Generally it's bearings that fail rather than pawls/springs.

On my racing 77 wheels the freehub has made a racket since I replaced it and had two rides in the winter. Sure that'll be stealing a few watts from me.