Road Cycling

[Lethal`]

Damn. That got me wishful thinking

TBH it's not that hard to fix each time it's just a PITA to have to do it so often. I too need to try some better bearings. I think last time I used Enduro. I bought a spare freehub before a big trip. It literally lasted the trip and was super rough after... mind you it was super wet throughout up to Leeds before Worlds.

However, the alloy freehubs just seem silly. Probably a slight weight saving but they're not at all durable. Can't imagine I'll keep this one on the Zonda long and I'd imagine that's why the previous owner returned to Wiggle! I rode it last night and felt OK. A LOT better than my Mavic Crapsium and the worn DT Swiss freehub but I know they were proper screwed.

 

[Lethal`]

SwissStop. Always used them and can't say a bad word. On both alloy and carbon rims.

Good call. I've never actually tried. Always found the Kool Stops pretty good and typically in stock.

 

[Jonny ///M]

Damn. That got me wishful thinking

TBH it's not that hard to fix each time it's just a PITA to have to do it so often. I too need to try some better bearings. I think last time I used Enduro. I bought a spare freehub before a big trip. It literally lasted the trip and was super rough after... mind you it was super wet throughout up to Leeds before Worlds.

However, the alloy freehubs just seem silly. Probably a slight weight saving but they're not at all durable. Can't imagine I'll keep this one on the Zonda long and I'd imagine that's why the previous owner returned to Wiggle! I rode it last night and felt OK. A LOT better than my Mavic Crapsium and the worn DT Swiss freehub but I know they were proper screwed.

Aye get some better bearings in there, Enduro are decent enough usually but clearly not good enough.

Fulcrum hub/spoke/rims seems sturdy but bearings dreadful.
Mavic Aksiums like to come loose and other models flex/creak like mad then the old seized nipple/spokes you get on higher end wheels. At least the freehubs last well can be cleaned and lubed. They've moved to ID360 which is complicated but a better system.

I seem to be a DT Swiss fanboy as they always feel solid to work on and they can be fitted to FFWD rims to make a solid wheelset.

 

[Lethal`]

Last night's wild camp... Testing out kit for a potential NC500 later in the year. Can't say I slept much but the kit performed alright. Could do with a smaller sleeping bag for pack bulk/weight and a better mat. Rained a little too.

 

[Roady]

GP5000s have been ~£30 on Amazon for last few months. Delivery can be a bit slow (not next day) but quite quick. Just bought another "spare" to use up an expiring promo credit yesterday.

That's a good price, noticed the TL also well priced on there?

Cheers guys. They're only about 9 months/3000km old. The surface on the tyre is still pretty spotless, it's just that weird strip on the sidewall that's showing signs of wear.

Low enough miles - you'll get no issue until more layers are really worn or you're unlucky enough something punctures the sidewall it may have prevented.

Picked up a used Zonda off eBay but looks pretty much new (from Wiggle eBay). Freehub has notches but thought I'd try it anyway. Of course it's super hard to get lockring on without stripping it as the notches mean the cassette doesn't quite want to sit right far back without persuasion. Got it on eventually but bearing kinda worn anyway so will be coming off soon enough I guess!

Damn, I'd be complaining to them as really the stuff they're selling shouldn't be that worn. But they'll likely just refund and then sell it to someone else...! Just file down the bite marks/wear until the cassette fits on better, at least that way you'll get some use out the freehub before binning it for the bearing...

Whoever designed the fulcrum/campag freehub body needs shot. One of the most expensive and most unreliable I've ever had or worked on.

Due to how fiddly they are, or just a pain to change bearings?

The freehub on some old Khamsin I have is still going well - other half abuses and ridden them all weathers after I put a ton of miles on them. Almost to the point of replacing due to state of the rim walls when I get around to changing her groupset...

The Fulcrum racing 7's Disk I have barely done any miles (<100) so not had a need to see how similar they are...

I've now got two (almost functional) sets though.

Good to hear after all the issues you've had - now you actually have some spare wheels lol

On my racing 77 wheels the freehub has made a racket since I replaced it and had two rides in the winter. Sure that'll be stealing a few watts from me.

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/e...mobil-super-2000-x1-10w/40-oil-1l-929695.html

Love this stuff for my freehubs, feels buttery smooth but still enough noise there (after a few rides).

Last night's wild camp... Testing out kit for a potential NC500 later in the year. Can't say I slept much but the kit performed alright. Could do with a smaller sleeping bag for pack bulk/weight and a better mat. Rained a little too.

His and hers?!

Maybe you just need a harder ride in the day then you'll sleep fine!

 

[Lethal`]

Damn, I'd be complaining to them as really the stuff they're selling shouldn't be that worn. But they'll likely just refund and then sell it to someone else...! Just file down the bite marks/wear until the cassette fits on better, at least that way you'll get some use out the freehub before binning it for the bearing...

TBF it looked worn in the photos too. I was fully aware I might have to change the freehub (especially after prior experiences). In some ways it's kinda funny they've not really changed the hub at all. It's now a ceramic coated alloy (vs just alloy I think previously for Zonda). The rim is apparently wider internally. Doesn't look wider externally so I guess less braking track?

His and hers?!

Maybe you just need a harder ride in the day then you'll sleep fine!

Aha nah. Just me and a mate... it was his idea! Mine is the hooped bivvy at the top. I did bring along a Wilko tarp that we failed to try and prop up with two bikes (front wheels removed) so it just sort of propped up with handlebars over us. Probably kept him dry as it did rain a bit in the night and you can't really completely close the bivvy he got.

 

[gpuerrilla]

Maybe you just need a harder ride in the day then you'll sleep fine!

 

[-westy-]

Thanks for offers @Roady and @SoliD - have splashed out on a new cassette - new chain on old cassette was awful Quick test ride last night and I'm back in action.

Edit: Side note, old cassette was on ****ing tight, ended up using a battery powered impact driver to get it off. Much easier

 

[Jonny ///M]

Has a good night last night even getting dropped. Heavy legged and a few good lads out.

Young lad Callum was looking good getting across to the "break" but I'd expect that as he's ridden the baby giro and riding for Caja Rural.

 

[PardonTheWait]

If I wanted to go to an 11-34 cassette on my Orca (105 5800), could I just put the longer cage on my SS derailleur, or would I need to get a whole new derailleur? Would I need a longer chain as well?

The 11-28 is fine for around here but I'd like to go further afield in future and I think it would be good to have the option.

Edit: I'm 99% sure it's an SS derailleur, the pulley wheels are like 10-12mm apart.

 

[Jonny ///M]

You'd need to fit a 5800GS if you can find one or ideally an R7000GS and put a 11-34 cassette on it. Longer chain is needed.

 

[PardonTheWait]

The 7000 rear derailleur would just go straight on with the rest of the 5800 bits right as they’re both 11-speed?

 

[Jonny ///M]

Yeah straight swap and arguable a better design. GS allows 34 Vs 32 on the 5800.

 

[PardonTheWait]

Lovely, I’ll have a look into it. Cheers for advice

 

[AndyCr15]

So my last three punctures have happened while the bike has been sat in the hallway. I'd previously assumed some kind of slow punctures, but at around 3am, I must have been conscious enough to hear it happen, a loud 'pffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffft' noise. I got out of bed, sure enough, completely flat back tyre.

The last one, I checked where it happened on the tube and checked the wheel and tyre in that area and couldn't see/feel an issue. Since the last one I've dropped my pressures by about 10psi, thinking maybe it's just too high, but I guess that's not helped. Is my flat haunted?!

**EDIT** Investigated again, this one is almost certainly aligned with the rim tape having a hole on the spoke hole. The tube has a pretty significant single hole of a reasonable size. Is it simply the pressure of part of the tube pushing into this hole in the rim, eventually it's given way?

I have some other fabric like rim tape, I've put that on.

 

[Lethal`]

Quite likely. I've "fixed" the rim tape moving with gaffa tape before when I didn't have any rim tape to hand.

 

[Django x2]

Looking for some alternatives to my upcoming purchase. I'm triathlon focused but spend most time on the road and don't really engage in the sport enough to warrant a TT bike. In fact, the times I've tried them, I compete quicker on a well set up endurance/ fast road bike.

I've been looking a Ribble and BMC but just wondering if anyone had suggestions for alternatives. Biancchi lost their way a little and I'm not a massive fan of specialized or pinnarello.

 

[Drollic]

Looking for some alternatives to my upcoming purchase. I'm triathlon focused but spend most time on the road and don't really engage in the sport enough to warrant a TT bike. In fact, the times I've tried them, I compete quicker on a well set up endurance/ fast road bike.

I've been looking a Ribble and BMC but just wondering if anyone had suggestions for alternatives. Biancchi lost their way a little and I'm not a massive fan of specialized or pinnarello.

Cervelo caledonia 5 in frameset for build or ultegra di2 model with a wheel change to 50mm region. Not cheap and not the lightest but the geo is incredibly flexible. You could race on it at a good level or ride it as an ultra endurance bike and anything in between. More manufacturers should make bikes with it's geo. Another bonus is a reasonable looking HT height even if you're tall.

 

[Berger]

Sold my Enve tubulars that I used for TT.

Need to buy a replacement. Rim brake for good weather riding only. I want to run 25-28mm tyres, clinchers.

Was thinking Token Konax Pro (52mm deep carbon 1450g).

or Vision Metron SL 40mm, again 1400-1450g.

My only concern is quality of the hubs, and is a 21 spoke rear wheel going to be stiff enough. I can probably budget £1k with the Enve wheel sale.

Any alternatives I’ve not thought of, the FFWD wheels don’t seem light/cheap enough as they come with the DT350.

 

[#Chri5#]

Has anyone got either the Northwind Celsius R GTX Winter or Celsius R Arctic GTX winter road boots?

My ancient Shimano MW101 winter boots (purchased January 2006!) are 2 bolt, so I can't use them with my Assiomo PM pedals, hence hovering over the buy button. I believe the difference is the Arctic has extra insulation, they are £146 on Wiggle and the "plain" version £152 from Merlin. I'd probably wear them with my existing Brasher heavy weight waterproof socks, so looking to size up to a 11 or perhaps a 12.

If it's proper winter filth I'd expect to drag the winter bike out for mudguards and that has SPDs, so I'd go with the Shimano boots. These would be for days like yesterday - warmer but plenty of spray, the odd flooded roads and occasional rain (plus one absolutely evil hail storm which hurt). Thus I'm thinking the unlined version might be a better choice, even if they are more a few quid more.