Specific advice (Enthoo in room corner, air vs AIO options for silence/OC)

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Two unusual problems there.
Well, vibration/echo is sort of usual, but more commonly with HDDs and cheap cases.
Other with audible air flow. Too much air flow.
Could both be linked to those massive 230mm fans? Turn them off?

And coming back to first reaction. You don't need many fans at all.
Plan A:
Slap a big heavy cooler (can recommend Scythe Ninja, wide fin spacing good for low rpm) on CPU.
Add 1 (one) sub 800 rpm exhaust fan somewhere. Let GPU manage its own ****. Done.

Plan B if fancy overclocking:
Add intake fans blowing cool air into CPU and GPU coolers. Done.

Everything else is just to have fun tinkering, no real benefit.
 
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Two unusual problems there.
Well, vibration/echo is sort of usual, but more commonly with HDDs and cheap cases.

No HDDs now. All drive bays removed also. The case is a fairly large midi tower with a now-empty front, so it's pretty hollow. It wasn't cheap, but Enthoo Pro is more solid value range than enthusiast range. The front and top surfaces on which founts are mounted aren't rigid (aluminium sort-of-wings rather than the steel case frame). I decided to use Noctua's rubber bolts rather than screwing the fans tightly (overtightening the screws tended to work better for me than rubber pads some 10–15 years ago).

Part of the problem with vibrations is that there's a heckton of them coming from the outside (think municipal works at night, like plumbing fixes or whatever) and my relatively small room (<12 sqm) on the 11th floor seems to pick up sounds from the outside or even amplify them. Sitting near the window you can sometimes hear conversations from the outside quite clearly. Much of the time ugly sounds feel like they're coming exactly from the PC case under the desk, though the real source is outside, which you only find out by shutting down or hybernating the computer (at which point the sound is still there but as if less prominent). The PC itself stands on a thick anti-vibration rubber mat, so it probably shouldn't be quick to catch vibrations from the outside.

Other than vibrations, it's generally coarse motor/bearing sounds, such as on my Silent Wings 3 hi-speed when pulling through mesh+filter as front intakes. They were audible around 550rpm and problematic from 600 up. At 800 the problem was big. As CPU fans, 900 is or borders on inaudible. Or clicks, if a fan develops them, such as the original 200mm from Phanteks.

Other with audible air flow. Too much air flow.

Could both be linked to those massive 230mm fans? Turn them off?

A bunch of 500rpm fans tends to make things audible for me. I keep case fans off for work and light gaming. IIRC they won't start until CPU hits 60C, at which point they run 300-ish (500–600 tops) and the CPU fan runs 600-ish. In Prime 95 this isn't sufficient, or rather the mobo does a vdroop throttle, Asus-style (Z370-H), as soon as the VRMs reach 75C or Watt output reaches 125. Then, the CPU frequency doesn't seem to change and voltage seems to change only slightly, but wattage seems to be intent on going from 125 to 95, reducing in a huge temp drop, then the cycle starts again. This is the behaviour on my cheap mobo that serves as a temporary replacement for my Aorus Pro Z390.

And coming back to first reaction. You don't need many fans at all.
Plan A:
Slap a big heavy cooler (can recommend Scythe Ninja, wide fin spacing good for low rpm) on CPU.
Add 1 (one) sub 800 rpm exhaust fan somewhere. Let GPU manage its own ****. Done.

The case sits in the exact corner of the room, under the desk. Rear exhaust is 140mm, very close to the wall. Top exhaust is 1x200 or 2x140 (or 1x230 ghetto), often not as close to the desk as the rear is to the wall. Would you suggest rotating the CPU cooler 900 degrees?

As for GPU, I've recently realized that while the air movements are inaudible at 1000-ish rpm, the bearings make a nasty vibration-like contribution to the unsettling sorta-silence-but-something-feels-off overall acoustic impression.

Plan B if fancy overclocking:
Add intake fans blowing cool air into CPU and GPU coolers. Done.

Yes, well, there's a lot of empty space in the case front right now. This is probably what leads to the audibility/echo, and is also what makes me think that this works kinda like a modular/two-chamber case, where you could put bottom intakes opposite of top-front AIO rad exhausts with nothing in between them, somewhat far away from the mobo. (The added length of the removed bays as compared to a modern bayless case.)

In the AIO variant, I would have:

A. CPU top 360 AIO exhaust, GPU front 280 AIO intake, bottom 140 intake, rear 140 exhaust.
B. Top-rear 140 exhaust, CPU front-top 280 AIO exhaust, rest as above.
C. GPU 240 bottom intake.
D. CPU 280 front, GPU top (280+140 fan or 360 rad).
E. Normal fan intakes, GPU with Morpheus/Accelero.

Everything else is just to have fun tinkering, no real benefit.

There's a promo at a retailer's nearby, with Liquid Freezers 280 actually cheaper than D15 or LGMRT. Does this change anything?
 
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Soldato
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Good conversation!
Understanding airflow is quite important. We need to think of airflow as a liquid instead of a gas. When a fan blows air out it is drawing same amount of air in as out (simple physics). Same applies to and intake fan pushing air into case .. we have the same volume of air coming out as we have going in (again, simple physics).

Static Pressure Rating of our fans is measured by mounting a fan as intake on a sealed container and measuring the most pressure fan can push into that box. This mm H2O measurement shows us the difference between room pressure and pressure in sealed box with fan at full speed. Typically these reading range from 0.70mmH2O to maybe 1.7mmH2O.

Sure, air can be compressed much more than liquids, but the very low pressure ratings of our fans creates between intake and exhaust sides of our fans means almost no compression is done.

To give you an idea of how very little pressure or compression a 1.5mmH2O static pressure rate fan has on exhaust side vs intake side of our fans, it's about the same as the difference in pressure in air pressure on our waist compared to air pressure on our feet standing at sea level.

You might be interested in link below to basic guide to how airflow works and how to optimise case airflow. It's basics for typical tower case, but can easily be adapted to vertical by rotating 90 degrees. It also explains how I use a low cost remote sensor thermometer to monitor cooler intake air temp vs room air temp.
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/foru...-i-put-my-temp-sensor.18564223/#post-26159770
 
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OP
Joined
7 Sep 2020
Posts
107
Good conversation!
Understanding airflow is quite important. We need to think of airflow as a liquid instead of a gas. When a fan blows air out it is drawing same amount of air in as out (simple physics). Same applies to and intake fan pushing air into case .. we have the same volume of air coming out as we have going in (again, simple physics).

Static Pressure Rating of our fans is measured by mounting a fan as intake on a sealed container and measuring the most pressure fan can push into that box. This mm H2O measurement shows us the difference between room pressure and pressure in sealed box with fan at full speed. Typically these reading range from 0.70mmH2O to maybe 1.7mmH2O.

Sure, air can be compressed much more than liquids, but the very low pressure ratings of our fans creates between intake and exhaust sides of our fans means almost no compression is done.

To give you an idea of how very little pressure or compression a 1.5mmH2O static pressure rate fan has on exhaust side vs intake side of our fans, it's about the same as the difference in pressure in air pressure on our waist compared to air pressure on our feet standing at sea level.

You might be interested in link below to basic guide to how airflow works and how to optimise case airflow. It's basics for typical tower case, but can easily be adapted to vertical by rotating 90 degrees. It also explains how I use a low cost remote sensor thermometer to monitor cooler intake air temp vs room air temp.
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/foru...-i-put-my-temp-sensor.18564223/#post-26159770

Thanks, Doyll!

Mind if I ask you about PH-TC14PE and TSP140 — two coolers I know you're quite fond of (I've read the discussions) and I can purchase inexpensively?

I've been tempted to buy a D15 or Le Grand Macho RT as a surefire choice and call it a day, but:

A retailer near my place has a much cheaper TSP140 (priced on Fuma 2/Ninja 5 level, also available), which might well be the king of air kings — from what I gather from the existing discussions. However, I'm a bit worried about the sheer amount of not-so-spectacular results — even if those are technician error in installation, I'm probably even more likely to mess up than the reviewers are. So should I stick with the TSP140 or should I compromise and get the Macho for some 40% extra cost at 40 TDP less (just a bit more expensive than D15s)?

Alternatively, for even less money I could buy a used PT-TC14PE or D14 heatsink, each potentially better than the D15's, and use it with my 2x140 Silent Wings 3 hi-speed for perhaps a better end result than a D15.

The last alternative is Liquid Freezer II 280 due to a promotion pricing it equally with Macho/D15s and well below D15, but I worry about the possibility of the pump's quiet but audible sound never disappearing in idle, which would completely rule it out for me.

Which one would be the best choice?
 
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